cletus

yes, unless its an old landcruiser or jeep or something like that thats designed to not have any doors. i couldnt find anything that says you have to have doors. but that would be a common sense thing

If it had done it a month later i would be more that way inclined,i didnt want him to think id deliberately sold him a lemon.

had to go down to h town today for a warranty claim already. the starter relay started playing up on his way home which made the starter jam on. stupid thing never even hinted at having a problem before that

SOLD. brace yourselfs, hamilton, its heading your way

arrow wheels? west auckland

you appear to be rather talented behind the sewing machine! nice work

those are VG rims, so any hubcap VG- CM will fit. The 2 that you like, i havnt seen those before, i have a set of 770 caps that have that outer pattern but not the valiant logo in the middle

up to 50% power increase= 3, 100-0 kph stops under 4.4 seconds over 50% power increase= 5, 100-0 kph stops under 4.4 seconds things that make cars struggle to pass drums on the front shitty brake pads solid brake discs worn brake discs big wheels extra weight

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/42008-vc-valiant/ sweet. do your wheels have 3 or 4 hubcap clip lump things? that will dictate which hubcaps you need.

designing your own front end would be quite a challenge to get legal, you would have to know what you are doing. using a complete front end out of something else is a cheaper better option in most cases especially when its mostly hidden.

nah i couldnt find anywhere (easily) that sold bulk baking soda, can of supercheap degreaser+ old toothbrush+ waterblaster got the job done. i ended up getting it all cleaned and done and only had to buy a pump plunger. runs pretty good, bit slower and quieter now

turbo 3rz and powerglide! tubs! transbrake! wheelies!

the rules dont get that specific, it just has to have enough vac under normal driving conditions id put it between carb and blower.

the guy i work for recently had trouble getting a cage in a beach buggy legal because it didnt match what the hobby car manual said, despite being stronger than the one on the book (it was a 6 point cage, the one in the book is a 4 point roll bar) engineering calcs would make life a lot easier come cert time.

yes external cage would work if its designed to take the loading of the belt anchorage.

in short, no. seatbelts cant be modified. you can buy new belts that are different colours but there is nobody in new zealand who can modify them, autoliv in auckland used to but they shut up shop and went back to oz Modification14. A seatbelt must not have been modified (Note 14) since 1 January 1992, except where: a) the modification is approved by the seatbelt or vehicle manufacturer the seatbelt has been modified temporarily to accommodate a child restraint, provided the modification: i. does not affect the performance of the child restraint, and ii. is not likely to cause injury to a vehicle occupant, and iii. does not cause damage to the seatbelt.

there has been a recent rule change to make this sort of thing easier- there should be an infosheet available soon on lvvta.org.nz, i got a copy the other day. i have had trouble over the same mod on a landrover (s-wagon converted to ute using all factory landrover panels) lvvta say because the cab is modified, the upper belt anchorages have to meet LVV specs, and they say the factory landrover ones dont, they dont think they are strong enough. so they want a roll cage fitted to mount the belts off. which IMO is not practical as the cab space is limited which raises interior impact issues with bashing your head on the roll bar. also the support bars are very difficult, if they go foward they get in the way of your hip and make access to the cab difficult, and if they go back it has to go thru the cab and to the chassis, which makes a tip tray difficult. still havnt finished that one, owner was going to try some other way of doing it.....

cant see why you couldnt, no different from having a wheel spacer theres just less load going through it. there is no specific set of rules for using a spacer behind a disc so just use common sense- spacer fits snugly on center of hub, use bolts with a shank through the disc and spacer- etc.

check the trans fluid level when its running, in neutral, when the trans is hot. dont worry about what it says any other time. also, autos are not like engines, not all the fluid goes to the bottom when you turn the engine off, some will be in the valvebody, cooler lines etc so unless you completely stripped it, 7 litres probably wont fit in there

i like msd stuff. have never had a problem with it. when i first got my VG going it was so uber rich there was black soot all over the floor like when you have a acetylene torch going. it never fouled the plugs even running like that at my old workshop we did a bit of work on a dirt track car and we put one of those msd hei units in it, went well

will probably be there, ute will be for sale so ideal target demographic

from what you described in your first post, it seems to be running rich? which is making it run shitty when its warm too much fuel pressure? although float levels would be high if that was the case Timing correct? not retarded at idle? Power valve wrong or damaged? should have blow out protection being a new carb

should be a cool truck!

i have read that somewhere as well, but i have had a few plates reprinted with new vin numbers when the car got re reg due to new 7ATO123456789 type vin number being fitted

what you suggested is fine, one 3mm hole is what the rulebook says as a suggestion its not a requirement, none of the common aftermarket arms i see have an inspection hole. if theres any doubt or its an unknown brand or design i just pull one out and check it. photo next to a ruler is a good idea