kpr

looks like a straw. and from a quick google, amongst all the usual shitfights general consensus is they are "loud"

Yeah i mentioned that earlier. (Not the holden bit..)As well as Trial and error , unless you know someone with same setup or can do the science. Bit different in his situation, but generally on a na engine that your trying to make power on. will have a big exhaust , cams , so yeah mufflers if want to use it on the street. And adding mufflers in later sucks

Haven't tried anything like that. mostly straight though absorption, or multipass chambered. one im currently using is a combo of both seems to do a pretty good job on a cam'd 4age . its pretty big, which helps the cause. pics in link below. isn't pretty because is made from parts of the previous one that fell apart and junk had hanging about

i usually make my own, so haven't looked into it much. but try adrenalinr. think they will custom make if they don't have what you need. otherwise if you have some room loop 2 together. its really a bit of trial and error sometimes. as holdenman says some engines are easier to shut up. generally you want at least 2 different syles/shapes/sizes of mufflers to shut up different tones. /beaten by @cletus

need all the mufflers to make n/a quiet with big exhaust. couple of reso's and big non straight through at rear, swap it out for a straight through when going turbo. i say this, as likely have a hard time finding non restrictive muffler that shuts it up in 3" for a decent price. short primary's obviously aren't great on n/a, but will be fine otherwise

Not much happening with this, got it legal and drove it around a bit over christmas break. Had a few new wheel days Put the streets on for a change Finally fixed a front guard, to replace the one that had an incident with the wall at hampton downs about 5 years ago. pretty good for a spray can job Got another pair of 14x7 03's from old mate @Dudley . Finished polishing them, and some antique gold. after digging out the other pair i'd been hording, they needed same treatment. guard slightly different colour, but will do for now /forever. maybe in another 5 years will fix the bonnet Back to the OG look from 10 years ago except for 7's instead of 6.5's

what size primary's are on it now? so it has a twin 2" system on it? and going to go to a single 2.5"? you maybe heading on the wrong direction going bigger primary's, especially if downsizing exhaust (twin 2" is bigger area than single 2.5")

so is like this now and works? can kinda see how that would fix the issue to a point. bit of a band aid fix though. with ecu wired on that side what ever is backfeeding that relay wont be enough to power the ecu, so engine will shut off. you may still end up with battery draining issues or other weird stuff I still think your better off to ditch that "main" relay before fuse box and run a couple of relays after the box one for ecu and other for the rest, fuel pump can stay how it is. assuming "to ecu earth" is the fuel pump output from ecu

where does the 12v+ come from on the coil of fuel pump relay ? Sounds like how you have it setup should work. Ideally you want your main power feed from battery -> straight to fuse box/ fuses . then out of fuses to relays I like to run the ecu on its own relay triggered by key on. Then a second relay for the fuel pump. ecu supplies negative to coil Then if you want to get fancy; As well as the fuel pump relay doing the fuel pump. use it to trigger the coil on a 3rd relay, which does all your injectors, coils etc. This way if the engine stops for any reason, the ecu turns off the fuel pump and also kills power to injectors and coils and what ever else is on the 3rd relay. just bit of a safety feature

Its basicly saying that everything that the ecu supplies a ground too. Isc, boost solenoid, injectors etc... needs to have its 12v+ supply come from relay of which its coil is switched with ign on If you have powered something directly from the battery or accessory its going to cause issues Sounds like you have everything on the efi setup running off same relay? Its good practice to use seperate relays and fuses for ecu, fuel pump etc. And big current draw stuff

need to find what ever is connected to the ign on that is causing the issue. easiest way would be just start unplugging stuff, alternator, light bulbs etc and puling fuses. till it drops the relay out. then go from there. or there is something janky with the key setup.

May end up with too much rear bias if you delete it. just do some hard braking see if it locks the rears

sweet, will pm you

So, i did this again using the same coil overs and springs. 8kg springs 210mm long Front compressed 91mm adding both springs together. so 91mm x 8kg = 728kg Front Rear compressed 63mm adding both springs together. 63mm x 8kg = 504kg Rear 1232kg with almost empty fuel tank (60L), no idea how much fuel it had when weighed it last time, but guessing would have been empty because it always is. worst case its about 100kg lighter than the 1376kg it was, All the weight come off the front. Which is what ive slowly been chipping away at. 59% front 41% rear with empty fuel tank. still not great but better than 64/36 Should be able to pull another 10kg out of the front if swap out the brake calipers and intercooler. Anyone got some fc/fd rx7 calipers hanging about ?

Key is to put a size smaller die in the crimper and just fucken send it. then all the glue heat shrink so no one can see the abortion you just made.

Goes again, everything seems to work a lot better so far. Main power feed from battery and fuse box now in passenger foot well. pretty much the only place it would fit Made catch can that fits where fuse box used to be. some fresh spraycan paint even

3au ; The one exception to the 3" rule

The OG @dave was an impostor. Thats why he got banned aye @Dudley

So had a moment. Will it ever go again? Maybe As said somewhere up there. ^ Was having some electrical issues. I done a half assed fix, which made it better but look even more shit and still had issues. Short version. All the power feeds go around the truck about 6 times before ending up where they need to go. putting the battery in the back made things worse as i just re-fed the main fuse box. beside the rad overflow bottle. I was actually trying to find a spot to put a new oil catch can. Janky wiring was annoying me and in the way. fixing it moved up the list.. Plan is to move the main fuse box into the cab. This will shorten the main power feed from battery. Can then grab power for all the efi stuff & fans directly off the battery feed. Have managed to drag most cables back into the cab that ran to fuse box, just leaving the wiring for the lights running under the guards. most of the main feeds look to be the correct length to plug straight back into fuse box without cutting. so thats a win. Fuse box that needs to be tidied up and installed in cab.

Personally i wouldn't bother with the water/ meth. For the more shit to go wrong and blow up your engine reasons. Have played with injecting water alone and isn't much to be gained. Meth yes, but if system fails all bad. Run an intercooler even if its small. Pulling some heat out is better than nothing. Just make sure it flows enough for the engine. If flows across the width make sure has plenty of height and thickness, so isn't a restriction. Tune on pump gas for best boost/ timing compromise. If want to go fast at the drags of the likes throw in some race gas and wind up the boost. Still goin to take the hit on the iat's / lower air density. But higher octane will deal with knock. As im sure everyone already knows, its just a big ballancing act with compression, fuel quality, heat and how much air your trying to jam in there.

Same shit as the last few posts. skip to 1:30 if you just want to see some skids. Have heard many horror stories tuning itb turbo setups. But was pretty straight forward once had it setup in the right mode and got bugs ironed out. Fuel equation set as MAP, with main fuel map spanned in tps vs rpm. this takes into account the manifold pressure and adds fuel with boost. Also an afr target table set in map vs rpm, so it knows what percentage fuel to add at given manifold pressure. Still little bits and peices to finish and bugs to iron out. otherwise runs good

reg isnt going to move with vacuum on it alone. standard 43psi fuel pressure reg will need round abouts 43psi before it allows fuel to bypass. so if had 43psi fuel pressure, then added vacuum to the top side it would start to move more, to allow more fuel to bypass and drop the fuel pressure by how ever much vac added to the top if you could put negative 43psi on the reg with zero fuel pressure it would move. but yeh that much vac isn't possible Also, always use the vac line. unless its a NA itb setup

Yeh not bad aye. pity this shitcunt called @dave ripped me off

just nzkw 450 series. stuff at tank end been on there almost 2 years, seems fine

This is running again. with some some mixed results. Makes the same power as the old setup, with almost identical power curve. This is good, wasn't expecting it to make anymore power. runs nice. Swapped in the big inlet cam. As on old setup made another 15kw on same boost, but ran junk. (see top of this page) Ran better on this setup but still rough idle. Now where it gets weird; Had to add a decent amount more fuel, but only had very small power gains over stock cams. Tried all sorts, no dice. Still unsure whats going on. Ended up swapping back to stock cams. One major benefit of the itb setup is how well it runs down at idle. before with the big plenum and single throttle it would stall out real easy. much below 1000rpm and would just die. now it will go right down to 500rpm and keep chugging along. Have also added a simple on/off air bypass solenoid. programmed for idle up on cold start and when fans come on. Also doesn't vibrate it self to bits like the old setup. Still need to fix and tidy some stuff up. plus finish the tune. then im a gonna go destroy the paddock Next up steering servo for full scale rc hilux: