kpr

Glass come in different speeds. If you have something that's likely to have a quick spike in current above ya 5amp but normally the draw is less. you would use a slow blow. Otherwise use normal fast blow.

new contender; the internal bellmouthed peach slices

Along with. " I don't know how it works, but I know how to make it work." you have a winning combo

Now i'm going to have nightmares Will likely do the testing next week after roman's fine creation shows up. Unless someone else has anything to offer, can wait a little longer. But no panic will probably do a part 2 as already a lot to get through with my horrible creations alone

I hope these come with some kinda ms paint graph. or at least a sump screw driver to aid installation

This ^ If someone wants to send me some i can adapt them to test. I have some silvertop ones but are getting to be a bit of a straw, due to the smaller diameter. so lost motivation to make adaptors

I'm more of a build it, test it, then throw it in the bin kinda guy. But if yourself or anyone else wants to use the data from the results, be my guest.

Haven't got anything to directly compare plastic to ali. as the ali is 53mm id the plastic is 51mm id. metal and plastic people need to standardize their sizes hah. keen to test if can find something though. think one of my cams does 200fps, probably not fast enough but will give it a jam @BobbyBreeze Happy to test your stuff at a later date. The first lot of tests I was trying to keep basic as possible. Slowly cutting a straight pipe down to show the reflected wave tuning Then the same straight pipe at a fixed length with a range of bellmouths. catching the 2nd harmonic. these can be compared to my normal intake with taper Would be nice to test all of the above with tapered runners. But I think combining the above findings, then adding taper and fine tuning maybe the way to go. without spending days making bin bound tapered test runners. From all the runner calculators, the harmonic my normal intake is catching 8200ish rpm should be the 2nd harmonic. cutting roughly 100mm out should get the 3rd harmonic to the same 8200ish rpm. so yep should see both these line up with i do the cutting down the straight pipe test. @Roman said the same thing re intake size, which i agree with. Both suspect the big bellmouths may not do a lot for my engine, due to the runners being pretty large already. im really interested just to see what a boring old straight pipe does vs an intake i've spent $$$ on and days making with taper and good bellmouths

Made some basic shapes. Plan is to start with the straight pvc 51mm id. no bellmouth at 205mm long, cut it down 20mm at a time till end up with nothing. Then move back to current 185mm trumpet length and start to try different diameters and bellmouths. big diameter shiny pipe 57.5mm id. - no bell silicone bend solid bend horrible 90 cast bend will probably have to mess with length a bit on the bends to get the harmonic the same pvc with sharp half bell pvc with bigger half bell - will reshape after testing above pvc basic cone - same as above pvc with full plastic bell Would like to test some smaller tubes also, if anyone has some 2" tube (should have 47 -48mm id) to donate to the cause or cheap keen to grab it. material doesn't matter, exhaust tube fine long as isn't rusty. 4x 185mm long After the basic stuff will move onto other stuff. Thoughts?

Haha most likely going by the shake cam. unless the yoyo effect is to distract the competition

Yeah now i watch it again it doesn't make much sense. slowly extending the runner length would get you out of the negative pressure faster than a fixed trumpet. but doesn't seem ideal.

Thats pretty sweet. not what most people would think. "short hi rpm long low rpm" Even that one with a fairly big range looks like they are running out of travel

Thats because no one can harness the full power of a 4k, This is how i needed mine to work. change positions as quick as possible. so isn't effected by rpm rate. getting the friction down to almost nothing would be key. so can use a fast actuating system that doesn't require alot of energy. linear bearings or something. from memory it needed to switch between long and short a few times across the rev range. If got the mechanical side of it sliding nicely. probably not a whole lot more drama to go full variable

Interesting point. Smooth out the power curve whist taking a bit of a hit in the peaks? The setup on there, runners are 100% isolated from each other, no idle or map circuit. Hilux has the same same itb's but are linked via a chamber under the throttles. which has an 8 or 10mm port from each throttle to the chamber. much the same as what the bmw ran that the throttles came from. kinda like a mini plenum. likely too small to have much effect at wot. Could make a setup linking the runners pre throttle plate easy enough welding some pipes between the shiny pipes. Also re silicone joiners i made this vid a few days ago as a follow up to the above one. To calm down the angry youtube scientists in the comments. isn't no perfect comparison as to what effect the silicone actually does, but rules out they were the cause of the massive power loss. which i assumed they wern't before retesting.

Yeah the effect is real aggressive. to the point mechanical sympathy starts to kick in. soo loud too haha

assume you realize that's me ?

13 years ago ^ wow. problems were; 4 cylinder vibration - would need some isolation from engine too much friction - needed better sliding system travel- would need to have a lot of travel to chase the harmonic which takes up a lot of room actuation system - this was a basic 2 stage which was too slow. ideally would need fully variable with with feedback and ecu control to match rpm. air filter so yeh got thrown out the window. i could probably build something better these days. but a lot of things to overcome to get it to work nice

Have avoided doing this, mostly due to being a tuning nightmare. would have to tune individual cylinders.

now we talkin !

Also they don't have to be 3d printed will test anything that fits into the dimensions. long as it doesn't fall apart! Also open to testing other stuff related or not

silicone hose and hose clamp, just need about 20mm of straight 60mm od. nothing fancy. will be clamping onto the shiny ali pipe bit

Earlier i posted in the 3d printing thread. Was going a bit off topic so, here we are. @Ned @BobbyBreeze @Roman @NicT

On the subject of cooling. Anyone know a good supplier for tube and fin intercooler cores? Have been looking at PWR and the likes. After tube and fin for more airflow and less weight. market is flooded with china bar and plate boat anchors

^ This. very good chance you will end up with better results, than if you had the cam card and used recommended settings otherwise i would go slightly more lift on intake than exhaust at tdc

Just don't mount them too solid and will usually be fine.