kpr

could have modded the x member to bring the lower arms in a touch. then weld some platforms to the struts. for coil over setup, with some camber plates to bring the top in. that way could have got the street fins inside the guards without heaps of camber. and lower it bouns! new rims look pretty sweet tho. coil over it.

i ran a new feed. then used the standard feed for a return on the kp. works sweet as, only a puss n/a 4age tho. cant remeber what size the feed i ran was

sounds like you need to prime the pump

paul white does them in kerikeri, travels to whangarei regularly too. look on the lvvta site for his number. Burntrubber: yeh ive never talked to the guy myself. just what quite a few people have told me. thats why i went to the kerikeri guy. ah connecting nuts, that explains it. i thought you were talking about a standard nut. i still like the idea of machining an insert, to fit inside the tube better tho.

sheesh, yeh that is heavy duty. bit of an overkill for a kp with only a n/a 4age trying to rip the diff out. maybe a thinner wall tube with an insert in the end would be the go. keep the weight down a bit. machining bushes and stuff is no problem as i have acess to a lathe

cert dude? witch guy did you ask? i use the dude in kerikeri. the whangarei guy (shane speight ? ) is spose to be a bit of a tard from what ive heard?

thats one thing the cert guy said. threads are spose to be taped down the tubes. cant just weld a nut on. i made some traction bars for my fwd starlet awhile back and welded nuts onto the tubes. they failed the cert. i just took them off as couldnt be assed remaking them at the time. so yeh maybe worth checking up on before you do it that way

all good, some questions for ya: what size id tube (mild steel?) and rose joints do you use? do you tap a thread down the tube for the rose joints? how much thread on the rose joints you use? have seen a kp with cracked floor when using rose joints both ends. altho it would had have over double the power, of what mines making. thats another reason i want to rose joint only one end. keep a bit of the flex there. will loose some adjustability and be more of a pain to adjust thats all. would rather make them myself to keep cost down. but yeh how much for just one rose jointed end and nothing on the other? i can trim them to length and tig the ends of the current arms onto them revhead: yeh i have the general idea how they need to be made. talked to the cert guy about something similar awhile back. but yeh guess i maybe able to beat some more info out of him. he mocks me about having 2 "starlets" everytime i ring him tho interesting idea about the corrolla links.

was looking at those advans, they would probably look pretty sweet. pretty sure they'l hit the coilovers tho. +35 offset just fits in a 7" rim, they were +40 from memory.

anyone here made an adjustable 4 link setup? wanting to make some adjustable arms for the kp. mostly wanting to know what tube sizes and materials etc. to use. need to get it all legit as it'll be going in for a cert soon. there isnt much on the cert site to say what is required. will maybe rose joint one end and leave the other how it is at the moment, with the urethane bushes. to stop it from being so harsh.

yeh they are growing on me. thinking of getting some of these for it in 15x7 the diff and hub work done to it, means it can only use fwd offset. so oldshool dished rims arent gonna happen. the lip is off a mates ep71 si. that he left at my house too long,

sweet, i used the die and press method to make mine. took awhile to get the tool right

the 4a had a blowen headgasket, couldnt help myself and done some back yard headwork while head was off. removed the material shelding the valves and made a raduis down to the vavles insted of the step (not showen in the pic) dunno if it made it faster or slower. thinking about buying some new rims, since the ones on there are pretty rough. threw the 16's off my other car on, to see what width and offset is going to fit. actually look alright but want some 15's

from eveything ive read, a bigger raduis is better. to a point of course. flush mounted bell mouths are spose to best. since most of the air is drawn in from the sides. heres some interesting pics of flow into tubes: stolen from : http://forums.fastfours.com.au/viewtopi ... ake+tuning runner lengths make a huge diffrence as well.

i gotta pull my diff apart soon, will measure the axles when its in bits

all good hilux diffs come from hick towns, or dodgy car dumps. i made 100 bucks from my hilux conversion after scoring 2 of them from the car dump. and selling one some of them you can trim the ends off the axles and just shorten the case if needed. as theres extra spine up the shafts. think i got about 20mm each side on mine

non toyota one? toyota ones suck anyway.

heres the bits you wont get from downloading the manual. the colours could be diffrent tho. so be carefull there

yeh will run fine on map only. tps is only used for a few things on the old lems. idle control and stuff. nothing to do with the tune itself, unless your running tps only. or tps+map. map only will be the best mode for a 4agte. unless you have big cams.

1 - 2 ohm on each drive, at least 25w. i use 1ohm 50w per drive on my old link plus. 50w ones will heat up less than 25w ones. should be able to get then from jaycar and the likes cheaper, than from link.

the few autometer guages ive used, have seemed to read low as well. at least 1psi.

yeh it dies pretty quick up top if set on the long lenght. and its more of a sack at lower revs than usual if they are at the short lenghth. can see the change in air/fuel ratio as well when tuning it. gets rich spots if the runners are disabled

they need to follow rpm, as the frequency of the pressure waves change at diffrent rpm. but arent effected much by manifold pressure. hah yeh complicated enough as it is. have been times when setting it up where i felt like ripping it all off, and throwing my test trumpets back on, becuse they look cooler wiper is on a cam setup. so the runners cycle. the micro switchs you can see. tell the link if they are at the top, or the bottom. link just turns the wiper motor on, if they are in the wrong place for the rpm the engine is at. till the right micro switch is switched. its set on normal wiper speed i had it on fast to start with. but it would overshoot. since the wipermotor takes a littlewhile to stop. it actually works better going a bit slower anyway. as in the lower gears it acts kinda like a full variable setup. higher gears it sound like vtec (yeh gay) nar just changes note a bit

thats kinda where i got the idea. would be sweet to have fully variable. but would suck to setup. plus theres not enough room in the kp to give them enough travel

rear supsension is finished, handles way better than the old setup. trimed some holes in the air duct and put the strut bar back on. another pic of the variable runner setup. in the high rpm stage. the link switchs them at 5500rpm. they are powered by a kp windscreen wiper motor. low