kpr

ok wat am i measuring then? just get it at the height i want then measure how much i need to drop the control arm by to make it atleast horizontal, or even try get it similar angle to wat it is now (stock height) yeh pretty much, lower it. then work out from there. you could even unbolt the struts and use some kind of tempory spacer ( 2" pipe cut to length or somthing) and some long bolts. just so you can throw it alltogether to check clearnaces. then drop it on the ground to check angles. drftnmaz: made them myself. think theres pics in my project thread. if not can dig some up

im running 50mm rca's in the kp. ball joints clear 14" rims. but not by much. best to measure up before you buy,

yeh will only drop it down thickness of the coil, on top part. 10mm or whatever a coil. but should be a good 30-40mm lower by the looks of those springs i have the same problem as you at the moment with the rattly shims. 4e and 5e engines share the same shims as 4age if your needing to rob some. car is looking sweet anyway.

starlets run that 4 link setup stock, mine runs same hilux setup.

you could buy softer back when i did mine, altho i didnt use it. yeh stuff is pretty hard when it sets. but still softer than a stick of yellow urathane.

my ones arent twinpots nar, but superstrut models come with them. caliper design and type of rims as others say, is what it'l come down to

new intake had a nasty vibartion problem i couldnt fix. so quads ftw shit since im trying to resist the urge to turbo it, but could do with a bit more power: crusty ones are the orginal smallport cams vs kelford billets. currently has bluetop cams.

got 270mm rotors with ae101 calipers on one of my cars. 14's just fit over them with a few mm clearance

devcon flexane 80, i think the stuff is called. got it from paykels (sp?) from memory. 2 pot stuff, mix it up like resin. poured engine mounts for my fwd starlet years ago.

blah,

has cert, wof and reg! going back to a single throttle intake, mostly due to all the crap going thru the motor. rather than trying to find an over priced smallport inlet. im making a custom one. shouldnt loose much power over the quads. mid part of the runners. tapered for velocity: more progress tomorrow,.

who's the engineer if you dont mind me asking? wicked car btw

yeh thing with hilux diff will work. just swap axles left to right, if the splines are a bit worn.

maybe worth sliding the gearbox off just to check it it isnt a clutch/bellhousing issue ?

must be a mitsi thing, my old work shitter lancer wagon had the same issue, cut out if you went too fast around a right hander. with less than 3/4 tank. pretty average for a 2000 model i thought

wouldnt think the plugs or leads would do it. as you'l get a noticeable misfire, to make it loose that much power. could be a fuel issue, filter or dying fuel pump. could try some 98 in it or retard the base timing. to rule out knock

yeh, it'l be retarding the timing for some reason, detecting knock or somthing. or the sensor or wiring is bung. what fuel has it got in it? check the error codes

if you've been welding shit to the tank. you may as well cut the bottom out of it around the pick up. weld some baffles onto the bit you cut out, then weld it back in. done this to the kp, has never surged. even when the tank is near empty

been awhile since i updated this. first up i got a supra lsd from spencer (cheers boe) to replace the hilux one. witch wasnt much better than an open diff. fitted it into a 4.3 open diff i had, i machined the ends of the diff down to fit the open diff bearings. then figured out later i could have just used the standard bearings, the lsd version head uses. but first option was cheaper and faster anyway. next problem was the supra lsd had a slightly different offset, so the backlash couldnt be adjusted enough, as the adjuster bottomed out. machining the first few threads off the adjuster fixed the problem tho. can see in the pic the adjuster sticks out quite far, other side is the opisite. but still enough threads in there to be all good. after almost a whole weekend pissing around installing it, i was pretty gutted to find it was almost as bad as the hilux lsd. turns out it was basicly the same as hilux one inside. maybe just the preload spring was stronger. didnt have the apart at the same time to compare. defintly no ramps tho. because one wheel skids suck, i spent some more cash and got a modified hilux one, with ramps and shit in it. mean- well worth the money modified vs supra got me a ae86 quaife quick rack. some slight modifcations and now its 2 turns lock to lock insted of over three. steering is a little heavy, but it drives like a gokart. still waiting for my new rims to arrive, should be here in a few weeks hopefully has nearly passed cert, just need clean wof and driveshaft to be sorted.

finally got them to fit aye. i recon you should make them longer before you weld the collector on, if you can

on some diffs, if you dont need to shorten it much. you may get away with just triming the ends off the axles. my hilux diff i shortend the housing about 20mm each side. there was enough spline cut up the axles, that wasnt being used. for me to cut 20mm of the end of each axle.

95 is rude. = about 15psi on my front wheeler starlet. then its octane limited. on 98 it'l run 20psi (maybe more havent pushed it any futher) and make at least 30kw more. i listen for detonation on a home made detset. works good

nice kp man, looks sweet on those rims

yeh, bro broke two w50's, when he had his hj panel van. 350 chev with mild work. 2nd gear both times. went to a w55 after that.

must mean the backing plates the drum brake stuff is on. the bearing holder bit isnt big enough to get in the way. thought they just unbolted? been along time since i chucked that shit in the bin tho