Roman

Yeah I guess in a bigger heavier car the tires have a much harder job to do. Probably cant throw it around quite like the escort without nuking consumables haha.

Yokohama AD08R Still a road tire, but pretty aggressive tread pattern and compound. Not noisy at all like R888s and dont pick up marbles off the track. They felt faster than the very old R888s I had last time, but would be a fair bit slower than brand new semis. Which gives me the shits as it felt super fast in corners as is, miles ahead of previous! Full slicks on a hot day must be epic.

You should, it was so much fun! Had a few interesting moments... Car stalled at the end of a stint, right in the entrance back into the pits off track. Had a big queue of cars behind me... embarassing. Car started again after sitting for a minute or so, havent looked at the logs yet to figure out what might have happened here. Also I had my foot hard on the brakes, then the pedal softened and fell about 5mm then went hard again... I suspect this was the last of the lining shearing off the brake pads on one side up front haha. Drove home with brake bias wound all the way to the rear. Havent pulled pads yet but I suspect they're well and truly nuked. Sounds like its metal on metal, hopefully the disc isnt too beaten up. No fade or anything though which was great.

This post has: No Graphs No long paragraphs on boring topics JUST DOORT NOISES New PB of 1.21.7

You'll just break your T series axles and then have a hard time finding anymore. I hope you like understeer, locked diff is terrible. Regarding headlights... Twin front is best front! More the merrier!

Lordy that's a long serpentine belt... Wait, does this car have power steering?! What a flash guuuuuuuuyyyyyyyyyyyy

R888s are a beautiful thing. If I had the budget, and could find a second set of wheels that fit. I'd buy a second set of wheels with R888s or similar, for trackdays etc. Then keep T1Rs or something similar on there the rest of the time for road driving.

Yeah I've heard really good thing about the star specs. However I couldnt find them in 205/50/15 for whatever reason. The wear rating on these is supposed to be pretty horrific. But not bad enough that I'll have that hesitation of not wanting to waste the tires driving "normally" like semi slicks. Maybe being on a light car it'll be not too bad. I did a few braking tests on a wet road to get a feel for it, but yeah they seemed fine. I guess it's just the aquaplaning on large puddles where you need to be cautious. Although if it's that wet then should be driving cautiously anyway!

Car's back together and running better than ever! Surprisingly the $120 Aliexpress 1000cc injectors performed very impressively in testing. Idle is way more stable and the autotune function etc seems to be working great as well. Part throttle seems way punchier. I've been tossing up what to do for tires. T1Rs are just hilariously miserable on the track. But R888s are idiotic to drive on the street. They sound like gillies for your wheels haha. I was looking at other options, found the Federal 595 RSR. Supposed to be only a second or two off the pace of R888s, but more streetable and still prone to overheating. Tried to buy some but were sold out... The guy on the phone mentioned the Yokohama Advan AD08Rs as a good middle ground option for trackday and street that arent too expensive. So I did some digging around on the internet to see what people think. People say that you need to get a few laps to get them up to temp to get the grip. Perfect! It's the control tire for the World Time Attack series in the street class, so cant be too shabby! Some cars are going well under 1 minute at Tsukuba on these. So I had some fitted today, and went out for a test drive tonight to refine the engine tune a bit and see what the tires are like. So far so good, cant really form much of an opinion yet as I'll have barely scrubbed off the casting marks. But really looking forward to having some better consistency with tire temps at Hampton! Tread pattern looks fancy but I'm not gonna try push my luck driving these in the wet as apparently they're not great at clearing standing water away.

Not only because it's a good methodology, but also because you learn a lot along the way. Which helps for those situations where you do have no choice but an educated guess haha.

After spending a butt load of time testing I've got some good deadtime and short pulsewidth data in the ECU now. Because my deadtimes for the outer injectors were so wrong, to get it working previously I had specified the inner/outer injector ratio as something like 3.6:1. However after testing I know it's now 2.36:1. I've also got minimum pulsewdiths specified for both sets of injectors. At 60psi the 1000cc injectors show as 1099cc, the 365cc Altezza injectors show as 460cc or something like that. I wasnt expecting it to, but after getting the fuel back right again my idle is now rock solid! It used to hunt a bit and sometimes stall for reasons unknown. For interests sake I've redone my fuel table using Mixture map only, and now after 3-4 iterations the whole thing is within .1 of it's target AFR. Awesome. Previously I'd have to manually check the logs and adjust, for most areas. After taking the car for a drive when cold this morning, it also seems to drive really nicely. The engine feels a little gruntier, but maybe that's just a consequence of having driven just the Echo for the last few weeks haha. I have had some Yokohama AD08Rs fitted today, looking forward to making some doort noises at Hampton on Monday! Fingers crossed for some good lap times, finally on some non melty tires.

Sounds good, that's the one near Maccas & White Cross?

In the Toyotas where there's an in tank EFI fuel pump vs carb models, the carb fuel tank has significantly fewer baffles / no baffles for whatever reason. Possibly the same for situation with external pump.

Linglongs or bust!

Sounds good!

Was up past midnight last night putting car back together. Didnt quite get it finished as needed to use some noisy tools. Should be sweet by this afternoon though. Getting new tires this week, ooooooohh aaaahhhhh

Is there shiny stuff in your engine bay? A polished up sheet of very thin stainless works well, just need an air gap between hot side and cold side. (Dont have it hard up against one thing or the other) But hard to say whether that's suitable without pics of where it needs to go. If you really want a clean looking engine bay then remaking the brake hard line might be the best option.

Sooooooooo while I've had the car apart for other stuff. cobbled together an injector test bench so I can work out deadtimes and flow rates etc etc. Took about 4 hours of running tests at various pulse widths and voltages etc last night to characterize the Altezza injectors @ 60psi. At 60 they are awesome and linear right down to 1.6ms which is lower than what my car idles at. Will test a bit lower today and see where they start becoming a problem Hopefully the second set of injectors will take a bit less time, now that I know what the process is. I came up with a spread sheet that helps figure out the dead time, basically you adjust the number up or down until you get a flat line instead of it sloping one way or the other. Deadtime too high: Deadtime too low: Then once I worked out the deadtime for this voltage (13.4v) I could run a simpler test at other voltages, as I already know one of the values. So this time I'm looking to get the flow rate matching at all voltages, once their deadtimes have been excluded. Based on already knowing the value for 13.4v The Altezza injectors are awesomely linear though. (If injectors were non linear you'd see less of a straight line and more of a curve) It will be interesting to see how well my $120 Aliexpress 1000cc single pintle injectors compare, haha. I should probably start putting my car back together though, trackday is next weekend!

Some guys at work yesterday saw this on NZPC facebook page, came over and said "HOLY SHIT DAVE HAVE YOU SEEN THIS?!" Minds were blown What's the plan for ECU?

Damn that sucks, I guess what happened is somewhere near the best possible outcome of an attempted theft though. Retards caught in the act, and your car is still in one piece.

I got my injector test rig up and running. Interesting results from an initial muck around. Running at 12v and ~71psi Method: Run the injector for 6000 events at 6ms. Then run it for 12000 events at 3ms Then 24,000 events at 1.5ms spray, etc etc rinse repeat. If the injector flowed 100% perfectly with no deadtime, it would fill the container to the same level each time. But it doesnt because of injector dead time and non linearity at low openings. The only thing I could find to measure with is a rainfall gauge, so my units are in mm rainfall per square meter. Dont judge me Looks like the injector is probably reasonably linear until down to ~3.9ms, so I'll get some more data points around this region so then doing some conversions and blah blah, the line on this graph, where it crosses to zero shows you what the deadtime is for the linear flow section of the injector (large openings) So just under 1ms deadtime, the value currently in my ECU was 0.79ms so 20% inaccurate. What is interesting though is that my injector wont flow anything at all when running at 1.5ms 2ms is fine though, so at some point in between is where it just stops flowing at all. So again, currently the settings in the ECU currently are way wrong. Currently if my car tried to idle or crank at 1.5ms, the ECU would try to run at this setting and it wouldnt get any fuel. My short pulse width adder table (which is supposed to compensate for this) is prepopulated with some values but they're junk too. I promise I will buy a decent graduated cylinder so I can get some accurate measurements in some better units than mm rainfall hahaha. There's a big difference though that's easy to see though, at 9ms the tube fills it right to the top, at 2m/s it will only be a quarter full. Looking through some logs my car idles on the primary injectors at somewhere just under or over 2ms, so it's right in the shit spot. No wonder it's been hard to get the fuel right there. I reckon once I pick a fuel pressure that I want to run, and run this same procedure at varying voltages. The autotune, temp compensations, idle, closed loop etc etc will all work way better.

A 4age map sensor wont have much head room for boost, Toyota NA map sensors read atmo pressure at just under or over 4 volts from memory. But yeah something from a turbo car at pickapart will do the trick. Or just use what's in the car already if there's one there. Saves a bit of a ball ache if you can find a common one that people know the calibration data for already. That's where the link ones are nice, but you sure do pay a premium. I wouldnt be too fussed about knock detection, I ended up turning mine off because it picked up too many other vibrations as a reason to pull timing. Example - tune the knock thresholds in 3rd or 4th and its all fine, but then in 2nd gear it'll think there's shitloads of knock, when really it's just a screwdriver in my sump or my broken engine mounts. lel

This car wont have a borg warner rear, that was only some NZ new / Aussie assembled / etc cars. Anything out of Japan has Toyota T series or F series etc. (Which is a good thing, the Borg Warner stuff was junk)

That awkward moment when your speedo drive is too short.

Because it goes in a wet hole.