Roman

This looks great! Be cautious making fairly major changes with the SAFC because you are adjusting the ECUs load axis for both fuel and ignition timing. As in, ECU thinks there is much less air coming in so it adds ignition timing as well as pulling out fuel. So you will be much closer to knock threshold than a factory engine. Also those tail lights look pretty good for aftermarket ones. Not too gaudy like most seem to be.

That's a nice touch - Using actual Rover factory fabrication techniques.

Most aftermarket wings that I see (like TRD AE86 wing for example) are made so that its just a single piece with no "under side". Only the perimeter attaches to the car. But obviously style of wing allows that to be possible or not.

Depending on your patience levels check out parts 1 / 2 / 3 of this. In this case a 3 piece mould

Doug is possibly the cringiest person on the planet. Pete on the other hand, is most excellent. Hows the SW20 going btw?

I've said it before but damn that blue colour is so awesome on a 944. And paint so nice. Most 944s I have seen seem to be red (and a bit faded these days)

That half half overlap idea sounds pretty sweet I reckon! And you should definitely do a shitty attempt, will be awesome Definitely watch some of the video tutorials on mold making etc from that link posted earlier from Carbon Fibre guys, a lot of good tips there that will apply to fibreglass for a spoiler. EDIT: these guys

0.00005 calories per serving

I would imagine prepreg is a lot nicer to work with in terms of that it doesnt fray and so on?

Also, although you can say "More uniformity of fibres makes it stronger" is there realistically any process by which that's possible to achieve?

What kind of camera or scanner or whatever is taking pics? Awesome detail on such a small cross section!

With the data from an ID1000 and a 10psi pressure drop, the variation from just the deadtime changing on account of not referencing vaccum means: At 1ms, you have 5.8% error in fuel delivery estimation at 2ms, 2.8% error and so on (Error halves as MS doubles) With a 440cc injector my engine idles at around 1.2ms effective pulsewidth so I would be idling at just over 0.5ms effective PW with an ID1000 So nearly 12% error in the calculation for fuel delivered at idle. Not to mention that at at 50psi pressure its a 1085cc injector and at 40psi it's a 980cc injector. (I would assume these measurements are absolute fuel pressure, squirting into atmospheric pressure) So that's a 10% difference in CC rating coming into the mix as well, which ECU may or may not be smart enough to compensate for. As opposed to CC rating staying (more) stable. Again though if you dont care about chasing your tail around to get your idle really nice, or whatever else... Its splitting hairs for sure. Even more so if your injectors are a lot smaller than 1000cc. The data sheet for ID1000s is here if you want to take a look / check my dubious maths skills http://injectordynamics.com/injectors/id1000/ Also, as an interesting aside. The factory LS1 ECUs that are reflashable, for a long time people struggled with reflashing the ECUs because when you reflash it. It would go momentarily super rich, and then over the period of about 10-15 minutes all of the values would return to normal. Someone found out that the ECU models injector tip temperature, and when you reflash it sets injector tip temperature back to 0 Kelvin or something like that hahaha. And then comes back to modelling a temperature that's a bit more normal over the next little while. So most people just turn off the injector tip temperature compensation. But apparently GM knows something about injector temperature that the rest of us dont... Perhaps for the factory injectors the orifice diameter increases or decreases in relation to temperature or something like that.

Dont worry, your secret's safe with me.

Yes being fussy. But more specifically what I am meaning is that when differential pressure changes, so does your injector deadtime by a much bigger swing than if you keep differential fuel pressure stable. So if you tune your fuel map at a particular IAT and ECT, when you come back later and these have changed your compensations wont work as expected. Especially if you had a VE based fuel model where IAT and ECT are part of the fuel calculation at the start, rather than a fudge factor afterwards. Now of course pays to keep in mind that ECUs like early Links didnt even have deadtime information at all, and a car will still run perfectly fine for the better part either way. But if you try to get your cold starts and your hot idle and so on setup nicely, having this work as good as you can to begin with saves chasing your tail around... Again though each person has a different idea/expectation of what they want from an aftermarket ECU.

God damn I really just didnt need to watch that infusion / vaccum bagging tutorial on making that bonnet. Holy shit that was awesome!

Do you have any pics of some of the things you've done?

Yes, but it's still half the weight of a standard glovebox lid Titanium fasteners are cool buuuttttt one of my other "Things" about my car is I want to be as servicable as possible, and part of that is reducing toolset needed to work on it. I've got no cap screws for this reason (except where unavoidable) So I can do pretty much everything with 10,12,14,17,19,21mm sockets or spanners apart from a few necessary exceptions like headbolts and so on. (Which if I'm needing to do something with headbolts, I'm in deep trouble already!)

Damn that was so cool! I love the slices of the MDF stuff that he's used to build the shapes from CAD. That is an exceptionally awesome idea.

Interesting post. Contained Graphs. A++ Content would read again

I'm starting to lean towards this! Definitely keen to give it a go.

Now with a good mold (But no carbon left) I can experiment with different techniques to see what gives a better looking result. I sanded the print lines out of the mold, and wiped off most of the wax. This time used fibreglass and clamped it all together with what I had available. This squished a shitload of the epoxy out which was awesome, and my mold is rigid enough that it could handle it. Also before the mold was completely cured, pulled the part out. Trimmed edges with scissors. Then put back in mold and clamped back on to cure to final shape. Turned out great! Things learned: Smooth Mold = way better looking part Clamping made an awesome difference Need more clamps Trimming part while still "soft" is a lot easier than needing to use bandsaw later

So next thing to try here was something a bit bigger. One problem is that with my small mold I was using a lot of infill plastic. So it took ages to print and used up a lot. Also, I was running out of plastic. So my next iteration was just to print with thicker outer walls and a hollow center. I pretty quickly learned that the mold was too flimsy and the result was rubbish because it couldnt squash the layers together. Things learned: Mold rigidity is important Squishing things together is important Still too much wax as mold release So I thought about filling it with something, tried plaster of paris. Great idea which made the mold massively more rigid and non compressible. But, the weight of the plaster bulged my mold and so it was now unusable. Pooz. But it was now strong enough that I could stand on it. Cool. Sooooo after I got some more plastic, printed another mold with some rectangular infill patterns. So making some cells that I could fill with plaster and these would also hold the shape. I used carbon again, wet layup of each layer, a bit less wax, and still a bucket on top to squish them together. The surface finished looked a bit crappy as there were air bubbles. Also with much less wax, it retained more epoxy on outer layer and it inherited a lot of the detail from the mold (aka printing lines) But with some work it turned out nice. Glued it to the hinge part of my glovebox lid and now I've got a new glovebox lid. (since painted satin black) Things learned: Mold needs to be smooth if you want a nice finish Needs to squeeze it better to get air bubbles out Could still use even less wax Mold is strong and 100% reusable with no damage Dimensionally accurate and holds shape awesomely

So fast forward a few years to now-ish. And I've always wanted to do something more with fibreglass etc, but I didnt want to go through that same shitty process with making a mold. Which was 99% of the work. Around about the same time, start reading up about 3d printers, and thinking this could be a great way for not only making an inside mold - but an outside one too so you can compress a shape rather than just blobbing layers together and praying. So after a million hours getting printer working nicely, printed some molds for a test piece. Compared to my historical attempt with an airbox this couldnt be considered anything apart from hideously successful! I used a straight out of printer mold, some carnuba wax as a release agent, (way too much) 3 or 4 layers of wet layup carbon then put a heavy bucket on top of the mold while it cured. It trimmed up nicely and had a cool "dry" look to the carbon, I think because I used so much wax that it made all of the epoxy not stick to that outer layer. But it turned out bloody strong.

Okay soooo here's something shitty I made, the first time I tried anything with Fibreglass. A long time ago I had quad throttles on my engine, and I wanted to build an airbox for them. I spoke with a friend who worked with fibreglass a lot, and he suggested building a frame to the basic shape. Fill it with expanding foam. Then take the frame off, cut and sand the foam to shape. Then cover with the brown packing tape stuff, and just wet layup fibreglass over the top... Then pull the foam out. So, what I found here was... Fuck. This was so much work and the results were yuck hahaha. I didnt have very good bonding between layers, my inside layer of the airbox had a lot of spikey bits which I was concerned may break off. And it took a whole lot of sanding and finishing to get it looking okay-ish. It did the job but it was a giant ball buster for a low quality result. I ended up having a big paddy and smashing it to pieces with a hammer. Which was the most enjoyable part of this process. haha