Roman

Oh that's cool about the plug and play for 5/6M! Sounds like way to go. I think it's a 6m in the Soarer currently.

Oh what I mean is we would prefer to use the autobox that comes with the EFI engine as it's a bit newer. (But early 80s) But yeah sounds like could just use the older autobox with it if needed.

Yeah sure, so the latest range of ECUs is called the G4+ They used to have unlockable features that you would need to pay for, (Like ethrottle control, knock sensing, etc) but now they made them all free. I think they were trying to copy Motecs previous strategy of charging for every single option (It's more expensive to buy an old Motec ECU and unlock the options, than it is to buy a new Motec ECU that has this stuff standard...) So the main difference between the variations of the G4+ ECUs is how many inputs and outputs they have (and then price) So the most basic version is a Link G4+ Atom which has just the basics and not enough to control VVTI etc. All the way through to G4+ Thunder which has a massive amount of inputs and outputs (it has 4 loom plugs on it) So if you're just wanting to control an engine then usually an Atom/Monsoon/Storm is good enough, if you want to run the rest of the car as well with lots of inputs and outputs then something fancier from there. I think the heirachy from cheapest to most expensive (and fewest to most features) is something like: Atom Monsoon Storm Fury (Designed for 6 cyl engines and has onboard wideband controller which is cool) Xtreme Thunder (Has stuff like onboard K type thermocouple amplifiers, accellerometer, 2 ethrottle motor controllers.) Then there are some other versions of the ECU that are "plugin" versions, so they have the plugs so they plug straight into an Evo or whatever without any wiring needed.

In other news, Our Toyota Crown is currently running a carb 5M (I think its a 5M anyway) Have decided to just chuck the engine and all associated EFI gear from the spare soarer shell into it, so EFI 5M or 6M instead. Thinking it'll be fun to run a megasquirt or similar on it, for a 6 cyl engine what is the cheapest megasquirt setup that can: -Run injection on a 6 cyl engine batch firing injectors in pairs at max? -Any complications with running an auto box from an early 80s EFI car? -Capable of closed loop lambda correction -Will I have any weird complications with triggers or whatever for this sort of engine? Not really keen to make new trigger wheels etc if I can help it. Suggestions ahoy / should I just stick with the devil I know and get a G4+ Atom or similar.

EDIT: Nevermind need to revise my methodology and report back.

^^^That's the only reason I own a car at all EDIT: TOTP fail

In other news, I just paid for a copy of Megalogviewer HD. As you can import .CSV files from most other ECU types into it. The main feature that I'm interested in, is the ability to do maths on measured fields to calculate new ones. So for example, my ECU currently outputs CC per min of fuel consumption but you really need to factor the vehicle speed into this to get a true measure of economy. So you can do exactly that and then see a log of litres per 100km or km per litre or whatever. Which is cool. But then secondary to this, you can use the histogram function to generate a table which shows you what economy values you are getting in each cell of a table. So you can make changes across a map (say globally add or remove 2 deg timing) and then see how that changes economy really easily. The UI is just generally speaking disgraceful but it goes hard for what it is. But the table generator thingy and a few of the other calculated values will be awesome to use, I can see there are already some pre-existing calcs for working out coast down losses and power estimations and stuff like that.

Ahh ok mine is 1.4v = 34kpa and 3.58 volts = 100kpa. So similar slope but offset by quite a bit What voltage do you get when the car is not running? (~100kpa)

One thing I've not played with on my car until this weekend is trying to optimise the VVTI cam timing (inlet) under part throttle conditions. Obviously at full throttle you're trying to stuff as much air into the engine as possible but what about at cruising when you are trying to get best economy? The documentation from Toyota says that at cruising it advances the intake cam "about half way" to give some overlap to cause an EGR effect to improve emissions/economy. I did some tests where I was driving a stretch of road with cruise control set to 3000rpm and closed loop lambda turned on. Starting and stopping a log file at same points. I set cam timing to 0 degrees, then repeated at 10,20,30,40. Closed loop lambda would keep trimming the fuel to reach goal AFR, and then I could monitor how much fuel in total each setting was using. Interestingly enough it seemed to make sweet fuck all difference, even when introducing a bunch of overlap. Might not apply similarly at a lower or higher rpm range but it certainly didnt have the obvious impact that this same test had when I was adjusting ignition timing the same way. Or otherwise, I'm thinking it might impact EMISSIONS but not really economy.

Hey are you using a normal NA Toyota map sensor? I've got some calibration data for them. if you can take a photo of it or post a part number.

To be fair I dont work well under pressure either

Hey people I've been thinking about copying this for some canbus fun: http://paulr33.com/evo/vipec_can/ Using this screen http://www.4dsystems.com.au/product/uLCD_32PTU_AR/ I notice that some people here have mentioned that the update speed of arduino for a screen is quite slow, but this type of screen looks to have its own processing etc. So would that improve the refresh rate at all / by much? Keen to get some custom jibber jabber up on a screen in the dash unit.

I've just recently been going through same thing, wanting to improve that first bit of power when coming off idle. Found same conclusion as per above, give it lots of air and then bring idle down with pulling timing. So then it gains timing back when it leaves the idle ign table and then its much easier to get off the line.

That's an impossible reccomendation to make, because you need to match whatever the factory fuel pressure is. And whether it's a rising rate regulator or whatever (I'm guessing it would be for turbo engine) I'd try find another standard one, or try find another nissan one that runs same pressure and is a compatible replacement. At the very least you're going to have to find out what pressure it runs at.

Or MAF

That's exactly the case It has a cable from the pedal to the throttle body. If the e-throttle system has a fault, the cable can still pull the throttle about half way open so you can limp home. As mentioned there's an electromagnetic clutch that is between the e-throttle motor and the throttle mechanism, if this clutch disengages then the motor cant do anything and the throttle will snap shut. So it's an added safety feature. It's a good system having the cable there for redundancy, I had some teeth break off the gears in the e-throttle mechanism while I was down in Taupo and it was the cable operation that got me home. I have been thinking that perhaps it was the aggressive snapping open/shut that damaged the teeth. The e-clutch runs at 500hz but you can vary the pulsewidth with a table. So I found the minimum pulsewidth that could hold the throttle in place at 0% and 100% (22% DC) and then set it to this at the extremities so it would hopefully slip the clutch a little rather than shock loading the gears when it reaches the stoppers. But then sometimes this would cause problems at cranking when it's trying to adjust e-throttle angle to crank the motor, and give an e-throttle fault and shut the system down. So I made it a 3d table so it's got full 75% DC below 750rpm.

I decided to start from scratch with a tune file, I've fairly well hashed out the 0-4000rpm region in all load regions of the fuel map. Because you go through all of them all of the time when driving. But I've found it difficult to reach the higher rpm mid/low load areas (partially because you're never in them) and I never felt confident in the past that I had these accurately set.So for interests sake, I thought I would software limit the e-throttle angle so 100% on the pedal is only say 80% TPS or whatever. Then go do some "full throttle" runs, where I could get consistent and repeatable results to help dial in the fuel in those part throttle areas. However, the results really surprised me! I had to pull out so much throttle angle just to lose 10kpa of manifold pressure. It was a good exercise to complete as it felt like my accel enrichment has been relying on these load cells that havent really been dialled in too well. But found it very interesting how non linear the MAP vs TPS relationship is at higher RPM. This car has a factory Toyota Altezza E-throttle unit which from memory is 78mm at the butterfly so you can tell that it obviously causes very little restriction even when partially shut. I would expect a more linear TPS vs MAP relationship when using a smaller throttle body. In other news, its hilarious doing a full throttle run at 20% throttle, it takes a long time hahaha.

Since working down south at HPA I thought I'd start from scratch with a new tune file, my old one had lots of odds and ends in it from various experiements / adding and removing sensors etc. Looking at everything with a fresh set of eyes really showed how much a few things were garbage but I just assumed it was right when I didnt know much at the time or whatever. Like looking properly into how the cold start functions work it's now much better, starts without foot on the gas and doesnt zing the revs up when you start it. As well as that I'd never really played around with accell enrichment before, now it feels a lot nicer at high rpm when you give the throttle a stab. And I'll be ditching the staged injection as in my case it doesnt really add enough/anything to justify the added complexity to the fuel system, and the throttle response is worse when you're using it. I think to make it work as nicely as a single injector setup you really need a good wall wetting compensation model and two completely seperate tables for it for each injector. Whereas the Link only has a single table for accel enrichment settings, and an initial enrichment setting when secondary injectors come on. Which makes it impossible to account accurately for situations where you've got say 20% secondaries vs 90%. I think staged injection works well when your entire intake is hot, as it evaporates the fuel a lot quicker. But in my case when you've got a thermal isolator stopping engine heat soaking into the manifold you get a huge % of fuel ends up as wall wetting and you lose control of fueling and accel enrichment. I've now got about 3-4 sets of Altezza injectors though so I'm gonna flow bench them all and find the best matching set out of the lot. Will be interesting to see how much variation there is (or isnt) across that many of the same injector. Also just picking up this afternoon an Altezza engine in bits, so might throw it together and chuck it in the car to have a play around with exhaust side VVTI as well and see if that makes much difference compared to current setup. /Pointless Dave Rant over /It's never really over though

I'll be there Looking forward to burgers and doorts

Do you have any logging you can use, so you can tell how long the ECU is taking to sync with the triggers while it's cranking? If it's getting a signal very quickly then you know you can start looking elsewhere, like fiddling with cranking enrichment or ignition values

Just a note on this... If you're using a MAP sensor, since your engine doesnt really generate any vaccum during cranking, or at start of cranking at least. You will find that the 0rpm 100kpa cell, you only ever reach this during cranking. So you can bump this value here specifically for cranking enrichment if needed. EDIT: Nevermind I was too stupid to read the last few pages before posting I've just spent a bunch of time trying to get my idle to start nicely under all conditions. Something to consider is that when you have the engine just running by itself, it's a lot different when you have full beams on, engine fan running, interior fan running, brake lights on, and loading it up as much as possible. Maybe exaggerated a bit if you have a light flywheel. So when you have your car hot and you're tuning the idle, do it all first with no load, and then put lots of load on it by turning everything on, and it will take you to a different set of cells and you might find your car runs like shit again. But if you hold these conditions you can then adjust fuel/timing/etc as needed to make it idle nicely there too.

Nothing at all! It's still in the works and will definitely get finished. But just too many projects right now. Some other Toyotas have also joined the family in the meantime. An early 80s Crown from the South Island that is frigging immaculate (But blown 5m needs replacing) and my brother bought a TE71 liftback with full AE86 running gear in it. (Needs just general tidy up) We've got a good* 5M in the spare soarer body, so will yank that to fit in the crown some time soon. *Still shit but it runs

I'll be there I'll be there I'll be there

Air through the bonnet isnt necessarily a good plan, if you look at my aerodynamic cross section of the carina there is actually lower pressure and not so much airflow there. Take a look at @Truenotch's AE86 project, he has quad throttles on a beams engine with what I consider to be the ideal intake setup. (Apart from no filter haha) After talking to the very talented Mr Robbie Whitley, he has suggested one of the primary reason for quad throttles is that when you start using a very aggressive cam. With a single throttle at part throttle the vaccum in the plenum pulls the air and fuel back out of the cylinder and exhaust gas back through. Which means your motor runs like a sack of shit. But having quad throttles means that the vaccum is lower, and also there is only so much area behind the throttle plate to blow back into so the problem is reduced. Another big benefit of quad throttles is being able to easily change the length of your runners which can push your powerband around a bit... Very hard to do this with a plenum. Also, just re: under bonnet temperatures... The High Performance Academy 350Z gains ~15kw if you tilt the intake pipe up so its getting colder air instead of air behind the radiator. Can make a big difference!

Thanks Matt, I am currently using 5kg front and 3.5kg rear. This is a reasonably nice balance but with a touch of understeer so I might add the rear swaybar on now. Or otherwise get some new rear springs made in 4kg or 4.5kg.