Roman

I love those clips on the super tourer one

Time for an airbox to try stop the motor from inhaling 50,000 mozzies per hour. So started with a basic 2D profile. Found it hit where the bonnet rounds off a bit. Bought some play dough and smooshed it around the place to check clearance. Generally better than expected, have got 20-25mm to the closest brace part. So measured up the places I had to cut, then modelled V2.0 which is currently printing Once this is done, if it clears everything and there are no other issues. Then I need to decide how to divide it up into sections so I can still get inside to do up the bolts for the throttles. And then figure out what sort of air filter it's going to have, whether try jam a panel filter on it (probably makes sense given available space by radiator) or just transition to a round to jam a pod filter on there. Still a few iterations left to go until it will be a usable thing, but getting there. EDIT: Will be something like this

looks cool as! Man a passenger could accidentally wreak havoc though with some knob fiddling. Does the glove box lock? Or take good photos of all of the positions haha

I will have some considerably better options available to test on the day. However I'm still keen to see what it can do on a 185 with a bit of trickery.

The ECU outputs a value called Engine Speed Rate of Change. But it's not great. This generation ECU (G4+) doesn't have any capabilities for smoothing or averaging, so the results are very jumpy. I checked to see if the rate of change in the first 3 gears would be anything useful, but it's a mess. I think for a max accel ramp to work, you really need an equivalent of a non driven wheel speed signal. in which case you may as well look at slip rate directly. Maybe an accelerometer would do the trick, but untangling yaw/roll/pitch/etc from straight line acceleration is big task. This is what ROC looks like, a bit messy: But for easy adjustment at drags etc, I can setup another axis on the rpm limiter table that is controlled by a potentiometer or canbus input. As ideally it would be nice to have it adjustable in cabin without a laptop hooked up. Speaking of such things though, with some bodgery I managed include my 20hz GPS into the data that my dash outputs back to the ECU. (and use for dash stuff I guess) So this can give a rough equivalent of a non driven wheel speed: (might need to add some smoothing) I'm not sure if this will work well enough to use for traction control off the line though. It has some weird bumps in the values sometimes. But after butting my head against NMEA data for a bit, (thanks, person who wrote a library to decode it) there's some interesting stuff that comes in from GPS. You can get the date and time from a GPS signal too, which is kinda cool. As well as which direction you are travelling in. And Altitude. Also it can plot latitude and longitude, so you can draw a map. Because it's in the same log file as everything else, you can overlay TPS position, or vehicle speed, or whatever else as a colour scale. My fairly bodged together code for this ends up wrapping the values at the moment, if you go too far. Not sure how useful this will be, as I've got no motivation to completely reinvent the wheel of Racechrono etc. Which is already very useful and easy to use.

A bolt physically cant come out unless the top bolt comes undone as well. Because it cant unwind far enough to come out of the slotted part. A nut makes me a little more nervous about it coming off and the motor eating it. Although that's probably next to impossible.

So a few different things ABS pump / wheel speeds I've not been able to make any progress on the ABS pump swap, because I cant get to an Auckland pick a part site to grab some other wheel speed sensors. Doesnt look like I will be able to any time soon. So for now I've put the regular speedo drive back in, and wired it up. Will just repin to suit standard ABS pump. Track day next Friday! Exciting. Traction control setup Since ABS setup wont work, I have setup a timer based RPM limit instead. If vehicle speed is zero, and you are over 90% throttle. Then the rpm limit changes to 4000rpm. and a timer resets to zero. As soon as it sees that the car has started moving, the timer starts and the rpm limit starts increasing along with the timer up to the normal max. So the idea is that if the rpm goes faster than what is physically possible for the car, it must be because of wheel spin. so a few quick ignition cuts then you're on track again. It's taken a bit of trial and error to setup, but its working good so far. Green line is engine speed and yellow line is the rpm limit. So ideally on a good grippy launch you stay just below the yellow line with no intervention needed. It's not ideal and I'll still pursue getting front and rear wheel speeds. But it's pretty good in the meantime. Rear disc swap It was only $65 at pick a part for an entire disc brake rear end including hand brake cables, ABS sensors etc. So cant complain about that. The only tricky part of swapping it in, is that you need to remove the exhaust in order to remove a heat shield, to swap the hand brake cables. Certainly not the worst swap of this sort I've done. Not sure if I'll get this swapped over in time for track day next Friday. Probably a good idea to get new discs and pads. Trumpet swap So far I've had the best powerband by using some rather long trumpets. They've been through a few iterations fine tuning the angle and lengths so they dont hit the bonnet or the radiator cross member. However the current iteration that I'd settled on still ever so slightly rubs on the bonnet when the motor is under extreme movement. It's only the slightest rub so I'm not actually concerned - and only on one of them. But long term I need an airbox over them and an air filter, so there's simply not enough room. So my only real option was to put a much more aggressive bend in the trumpet and then as a result they are a fair bit shorter. But also more clearance around everything. As a result you cant fit the bolt into the bottom hole anymore, it needs to be slotted So I went for a drive to see how the powerband would change, expecting some slight losses if anything. However so far results are looking better than before, considerably better. Not sure why though. To reach target AFR you can see the closed loop lambda was wanting to add a peak of 22.7% more fuel which is an insane increase. I added the extra fuel then reran, and it stayed on target with minimal trim. So that was interesting. But I'm not quite convinced this is consuming 22% more air with just a trumpet swap. However it's possible that the older trumpets were badly shrouded by the bonnet and the radiator cross member. It's now up to 69.9% duty cycle with the 2ZZ injectors. Previous best was 66%. Although thats only really an indication of what's happening at max rpm. My fuel map is looking increasingly comical. I think I need bigger dia exhaust and/or VVTI to reclaim that mid range. It would be pretty good to get some of that 4000ish rpm region beefed up. On the whole though, have been fixing up some minor issues but I'm as good as ready for track day. Cant wait!

Could the distributor be 180 degrees out?

Yeah need different pistons for vvti to work. So will do rods at same time. Was going to do exhaust some time after hoist is operational. Thats on hold thanks to covid

Correct

No progress on anything but while I was doing some work today I came up with this little tune I'm a, fat man in a light weight car, Fat man in a light weight car, Keep going on about power to weight But I'm having second dinner by 20 to eight I'm a, fat man in a light weight car, Fat man in a light weight car, Dreaming of a time when my fast car flies While getting up to speed on a 6 pack of pies I'm a, fat man in a light weight car, Fat man in a light weight car, Thinking in a race that I'm gonna come first But I fit my overalls like a sausage thats burst I'm a, fat man in a light weight car, Fat man in a light weight car, The only racing cup that I'll ever see Is a well supporting bra with a bust size C I'm a, fat man in a light weight car...

I've been driving this around a bit, still sorting some stuff like minor coolant leaks. But on the whole it's great. I started a bit of a resto on the wheels but ran out of patience and so just painted them fairly half arsedly. 2 meter rule! Havent swapped the tyres over yet. Can confirm that LSD works good, but it's still a fairly narrow window between bogging the motor and over revving and just spinning the front up off the launch. But it's infinitely better than it was. I bought an NCP91 Vitz ABS pump from a wrecker. So hopefully this can output wheel speeds in a digestible manner for my ECU. I found a pinout for this pump, and repinned my plug for it. Except I didnt check the main power and earth wires, for god knows what reason they swapped them back to front. So it blew a 60 amp fuse that I had to drive to Tauranga pick a part to replace. Fixed that and plugged it all in. So after some mucking around I got it sending can frames to try decode. It turns out that Toyota canbus of this era runs at 500kbps and the abs pump regularly sends about 5-6 distinct frames that seem to be largely empty and useless data Two frames have a value that just increments from 0-255 then resets to zero. I managed to isolate the value that changes when you put your foot on the brakes. But that's it! No wheel speeds, yaw, or anything cool or useful. I wrote some code so that instead of getting constantly spammed with all of the messages over and over. It will only show you what's changed since the last time that same message arrived. So if you spin a wheel, if this makes a value change it should show you which frame and byte the data is in. But, im still not seeing anything. After a few hours of mucking around I'm a bit stumped. Possibilites are: -The pump doesnt actually output wheel speeds over canbus (seems unlikely, as these motors dont have a speedo drive in the box anymore, and it communicates with the power steering) -The pump requires some sort of wakeup command from something else on the factory can network to begin transmitting wheel speeds (seems unlikely, as I'm geting brake pedal signal, and it's spamming useless stuff out anyway) -The wheel speed sensors have been revised, and my existing sensors arent compatible with this pump. The last option seems most likely. So next thing to do is source a wheel speed sensor from an NCP90 to test with. Why cant things be easy? They are but I make them complicated

Ahhh man, big success today! I got the car together enough to go for a run up the road. There are some big holes in the firewall currently from aircon stuff. So it's open to the engine bay. And when you go full throttle the intake noise in the cabin is so friggen loud that I think I need ear plugs. All of the loom and sensors are working well, new intake manifold with flipped throttles worked out perfect with SCP10 cable. LSD is doing LSD things! No single wheel peels anymore! The new gearbox is a little notchy into 2nd gear but its much much better than the other one. It's all a big relief, gearbox issues are/were main thing I was afraid would go wrong at this stage. Also not a peep out of the alternator! no more squeals. Hallelujah. I took it to the weigh bridge again. 830kg with half a tank of gas. Happy with that! Still on the heavy ROH wheels. So it's looking good to getting somewhere near my 820kg target for drags etc once I've swapped wheels. Swapping drivers seat for a bucket seat would probably be next easy win for some weight savings. Maybe eat a few less pies? Nah. Lots of small jobs to finish off but pretty relieved to have no major issues at this stage.

Haha, nah. Just the jaws from the oil filter tool. When I was putting the motor together initially I dropped one of the head bolt washers down an oil gallery... all the way into my freshly sealed on sump. Need to get to a bolt underneath the oil filter thread thing to get it back off. So a brand new filter ends up looking a bit second hand.

About 3 weeks till Taupo trackday I've nearly finished my loom, just need power wires to ECU and connect some stuff back in before I can power up and test things. I'm not going to win any awards on instagram for my wiring techniques however I'm getting better with practice. My branch lengths suck but some I can shorten up later. Learning some lessons for next time, anyway. It is considerably nicer looking on both sides of the firewall, anyway. Looks yuck at the plug end when you dont have a boot over it, but will be hidden and will get some strain relief by cable tying the loom further up. Also @Testament finished making me this absolutely friggen excellent alternator bracket on his CNC. This time everything is about twice the thickness so hopefully it lasts. It really does need to be beefy to prevent bending issues. I really underestimated it with the last one. Current issues are that I need a shorter throttle cable, to suit that I've flipped the throttles. These cars have a weird cable mounting arrangement at the firewall end. So older toyotas usually have a 2 bolt flange, mounted from drivers side. Vitz/Echo just clips into place from the motor side. Even same era 1ZZ cars have a bolt on flange. So a cable from an earlier car doesnt work, and later model cars moved to e-throttle. I bought an earlier corolla's cable that's the right length to see if I could make it work, but it wont. It looks like a cable from an SCP10 Vitz would perfect. But I cant get to Auckland to get one from pick a part. None in Tauranga. There are a few in Wellington, though. Is anyone heading to Wellington pick a part soonish and could pinch me a cable? Needs to be a throttle cable from an SPC10 with the 1.0 litre engine that looks like this I can make the current cable somewhat work but it wont be a good long term solution. However I really need to get this motor going and test that the gearbox is okay, and all that. Making good progress.

Yes but danger of being barryed into oblivion I paid entry to another track day today! Fingers crossed at least one of them can go ahead. 4 weeks left to get my shit sorted.

Redesigned the manifold to be a little bit stronger, better clearance on some areas, and easier to wrap with carbon with some bigger radius on things. Ahh and flips the throttles the other way up. Then it took about 3 days to print, had a bit of warping that needed fixing but turned out okay. Test fits good Take some space age materials and smoosh it on there like a cave man: Then trim it up and sand the mounting faces on a piece of glass with some 220 grit. Nearly good to go, still some sharp edges to take care of with the dremel. Carbon splinters are nasty! Also I'm making a new loom because I had managed to create independent disasters on both sides of the firewall. Tried to get the heater box out and had to pull bloody everything out to get it! But now it's gonna be much easier to make a nice loom. Will be good practice for some better projects later, this loom is nice and simple because there's not too much going on. Aircon stuff is about 10kg worth of junk.

Almost everything in a toyota from 90ish is onwards is these https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/TER51151

I can tell you this with factual certainty: Its fucking cool and you should buy it immediately It would be an absolute riot with the big block motor in it hahaha

This is my go-to vid for when I forget how PID works, best explanation I've come across, so good! Start at that time point first half of video is about making the machine.

You need quite a fast wideband for EGO to work at idle, orrrr have some filtering/smoothing on the ECU side. As the gas speed/volume past the sensor is quite low it can be laggy. Otherwise it gets into a bit of a loop of under/over correcting something that's already happened too long ago

Oh god I forgot about non cross flow haha. Definitely worst case scenario!

Nice work. I've given this problem a lot of thought in the past. OEM use IAT and MAP in this way, (or used to...) but then they closed loop trim everything and dont give any shits. Then later on when it actually mattered for sake of emissions they use MAF and thermally insulated manifolds. This is a situation where you're dancing around the fact that you're missing a relevant chunk of information which is easily solved with an extra sensor. Which is a thermistor stuck to the surface of the inlet manifold. Probably ideally near the plenum end of a runner or in the plenum itself. OEM doesnt want to do this, because 1x sensor that they can live without saves them $$$$$ across 10 million cars. They have to have an oxy sensor anyway, so just treat it as a problem solved by closed loop. Adding a sensor is the only real way you can account for manifold temp varying while those other values stay the same. The manifold temperature is a result of temperature in (from the head) and temperature out (carried away by airflow) If you do a constant run at full throttle you'll slowly cool the manifold even though all of your measurable conditions stay stable. If you do a constant 100rpm low load on the motorway, you'll slowly heat it. If you dont have any way of accounting for this change over time, then you havent solved the problem. But if you've built an IAT/ECT compensation table that gets it ballpark most of the way there, and stops hunting idle etc then thats awesome! Good work. You could also look at thermally isolating the manifold from the head. Another issue is that you can get variations from fuel temperature soak as well, when the fuel rail heat soaks and there's a low fuel volume in the tank, and a hot road reflecting heat back up at your gas tank. Streeter Industries in Oamaru can cut phenolic gaskets if you give them a sample.

KPR's guide to making your AE85 worth 10x as much: Let it sit for six years This should be in the get rich quick thread

Ages ago I bought the Spartan wideband controller that uses the LSU-ADV sensor. This is basically a way faster responding version of the Bosch 4.9 sensors, that is much more resilient to issues from cold starts etc. However unfortunately, the initial version I received, after much troubleshooting wasn't sending or receiving over canbus. I've managed to still use it though, because it has a wire for analog output. So you can use it as a regular 0-5v sensor and wire it to an analog input. But the downsides are that the lambda range is reduced and I think it's a little slower to respond. (its still faster than older sensor though!) So I contacted them and they agreed to send a replacement. It took a while to get back, but the new version looks much better! So I'm going to connect this onto my canbus network, which currently only consists of ECU and my little dash thing. Howeverrrrrrr all going to plan I'll have 4 devices on the bus. As looking at the wheel speed situation, and comparing ABS pumps, and finding their pinouts. I think the tidiest/simplest solution is going to be swapping my ABS pump for one from an NCP91 Vitz (next model up) It's got a lot fewer pins, and it transmits all of the wheel speeds and some extra cool stuff like yaw rate over canbus. However the pump itself, the brackets it sits on, where the brake line ports are. Are all identical so it should be easy to physically swap over. So this means I can get all 4 wheel speeds coming into the ECU with just 2 wires total, and no fucking around with signal dividers or tapping into wiring looms and all that shit. It's a similar enough size/weight vehicle that I am not forseeing any issues with the swap. However I will document the pin locations thoroughly to make sure it's reversable if things dont work out. The only thing missing will be the ABS warning light on the dash, but I will just use an output from the ECU. It will be interesting to decode the canbus info from the pump, I havent done anything like that before. Hopefully its not too hard to figure out. But hopefully it works okay and is worth the trouble. It's a pity that pick a part is shut because this would be an ideal project for lockdown haha. I'm currently running a 250kpbs canbus because I have found that 500 or 1000kbps gets a bit flakey. But I think that was only when I was using an arduino Mega with a canbus shield. But everything apart from the ABS pump, I can adjust the speed. Alternatively, there are 2 canbus channels on the ECU. So I could just wire the pump seperately on its own bus if needed. But so far I've only ever run 2 devices on a canbus, when you start adding more things is when you see the benefits of how it can minimize your wiring. EDIT: Also my gearbox seals turned up, so fitted those and got the stub axles fitted to the LSD box. So its time to pull motor and box back out for LSD install. Maybe yank it out tomorrow after a bit of a tidy up. This car is surprisingly easy to work on, once you know the order of removing things.