Roman

I'm onboard with KPR's school of thought / observations, that beyond the extractors and a short segment after that, the rest of the exhaust is just gas transport. Nothing to do with tuned length, velocity, etc helps. Even on his near stock 20v, removing the exhaust after extractors gave gains. So yes this will get a 3" pipe at some point, haha. Adding a restriction or back pressure never helps. With the porting vs exhaust situation. If you look at the big dick swing K motors with custom heads etc, and they will hugely favor the intake side valves, even at the expense of crappy positioning for exhaust side. So I think porting will help to some extent even if I have a stink exhaust, IF it's allowing a higher amount of fresh air to be captured at higher rpm. I found a chart from someone who ported a 1NZ head. So the maximum lift cams you can get for a 1NZ are 9.5mm lift, that equates to 0.37" on the chart. So if you look at what an unported intake side flows at 9.5mm as is, its about 160cfm. With ported intake side, you now reach 160cfm at about .25" or .26" which is about 6.6mm lift. So instead of having that peak flow value at the impossibly fractionally small amount of time that the cam sits at full lift, you've now broadened it, and this goes all the way down the chain embiggening the flow capability of your cam at all lift values. Which is valuable in this case because I cant actually get any cams bigger than 264 deg 9.5mm lift. On the other hand, it's still possible that this is going to achieve nothing until I've sorted the exhaust. But that's fine too, because exhaust will definitely happen, just not yet.

The next most logical thing to do on this car, power wise, is leave it alone and just drive it the exhaust. However I'm a bit road blocked on that currently, for a variety of reasons. So I've been having a think about leaving it alone and just driving it what else I can do for free/low budget. So its time to just drive it give a head a tickle up and see if it makes any difference. The following is best guesses with no actual testing or proof. So take with a grain of salt. The "bad" news about porting a 1NZFE head seems to be that most of the tutorials that I've seen, work to address problems that dont exist with a 1NZFE haha. Because a modern factory casting/machining/port design are quite good to begin with. If they were shit, I probably wouldnt be seeing 8500rpm already. The intake port side is very steep and has an awesomely shaped short side radius. The valves are decent size for displacement, and the bowl area can be tidied up a bit but isnt the worst thing I've ever seen. There are some casting marks to tidy up but they're not incredibly dreadful. I am thinking the areas that will show tangible improvements on a 1NZ head are: -Deshrouding the intake valves, on the combustion chamber face. So removing the slight lip that exists from the machining process. This should hopefully give better flow when the valve just comes up off the seat. So I guess it's kinda like having a slightly longer duration cam for "free" as your useful airflow starts at an earlier amount of lift. However need to be careful to minimize the amount of material lost, or compression ratio starts to drop. So I dont think I will do the exhaust side, as there's less benefit when the flow direction is reversed. (For a turbo motor I'd do the whole lot as losing a smidge of CR isnt detrimental in the same way) I'm thinking that this will either be marginal to the point of being completely pointless, or possibly the most important change of all. Then in the intake port, smoothing out the transition from the machined bowl area into the cast area. And reducing the size of the injector boss protrusion. Then also narrow up the divider a bit, but maintain a rounded nose on it. I'm not sold on the idea of knife edging. I doubt there are going to be any massive gains here. Maybe nothing at all. But even the tiniest improvement cylinder filling at 8000+ rpm equals potentially a tangible difference. Either way it's something fun to learn about and it's "free" in that all it really costs is a whole lot of time. Haha. This is a junk head (RIP 2NZFE) which I've been practicing on so far, I managed to cut right through the injector boss seat from inside the port... But now I know how far I can go without issues. Will be fun to see if it makes any difference once I've done a proper head. But it's heaps of work. Definitely earning those 1.5 horsepower gains haha.

Yeah that's worthwhile! It's amazing how all that stuff can add up, and you have a supposedly light engine drowning in accessories weight.

Good effort! The more I look at the yellow car, and the more I've looked at that other thread and seeing these IRL. The more I'm convinced you probably own the least dented one on the planet

They must be ramen the air in

Assuming some of the shorter ones will be on extensions, and since this is kinda like horse racing I'd say: 1. It's Ramen men, hallelujah 2. big straight blue lagoon 3. big white badonkadonk 4. green swirly boiz 5. smaller than average, white, but an arse like a jack hammer 6. blue screw drivers If we could get all of the dyno plots overlayed and slowly increasing rpm then get someone to narrate over the top like a horse race please

second place is the first loser (to noodles)

In reference to the start of this discussion, which was my car heat soaking (or at least, the IAT sensor heat soaking) at the drags. It's a very simple thing to replicate. Because I can just go for a drive with lots of airflow, do a full throttle run. Then leave the car to sit idling for a significant period until the IAT gets high again (with IAT sensor set to observational only, not changing tune) Then do another full throttle run straight away. Then monitor the percentage of difference in Lambda value of the two runs, and the two idle speed conditions. This will show what the "Real" heat soak value is at each end of the spectrum. Thinking about things a little more though. Since my motor has very high compression, I think it's likely that the heat of compression is probably considerable. So the IAT being 20 or 35 deg probably doesnt make too much difference. From a knock perspective, perhaps IAT isnt that relevant. If that is the case, then it's just adjusting the fuel trim by a % that's needed, based on observational result. Calculations are good for giving a starting point, but observation gives you the sum of all variables, some of which you cant calculate for. From my drag runs, with goal AFR of 12.8:1. In the third gear runs I was just slightly richer of this target. In the first gear runs with heat soaked IAT sensor, I was sitting around 13.2:1 So a definite indicator that the air coming in was cooler than IAT was reporting, so skewing the airmass result. TL;DR: Unplug IAT next time hahaha

Arent you double dipping by multiplying the axis by both MAP value and VE?

Yeah to had to swap in the guts from a later model speedo to make it work. Was from an st202 celica or something like that. The odo came with it, and I lost my trip meters. The tacho worked just with the addition of a resistor, from memory.

On a non cross flow head though! Heat soak city

Hey, IF you run your tacho as an output from the ECU, then instead of allocating it as being just a tacho, you can make it a GP PWM table. Then you can output a frequency and/or pulsewidth that corresponds to each rpm point on a table, so you can get it 100% accurate even if the zero point of the needle of your swapped in unit doesnt line up. You can do the same with a speedo too, I did this to both on my Carina because neither of them were accurate at various points on the gauges.

It's like that! Not sure if it's something to do with alloy block, but compared to other motors I've had, it seems to gain and then lose engine temp really quickly. Or maybe the thermostat is just a bit sluggy. It's still got the normal 1NZFXE thermostat in there that the motor came with. I'm not sure if they make it "slow" on purpose perhaps. Compared to the regular engines. Or maybe it's because this electric waterpump is only rated to move water around to suit a 75hp engine haha.

Painful bill, but man that dash looks incredible!

Yeah I dont know what's going on with the sensor, I've used this same sensor previously and it's been insanely quick to react. Like almost instant with throttle. But the last few I've used have seemed sluggy. Maybe that have a glass coated thermistor and the other ones were exposed. Maybe I shouldnt buy aliexpress IAT sensors, who knows. hahaha. Yeah ideally I'd just be able to clamp the IAT reading to ambient air and ignore the heat soak from staging. As its 100% fake news. For next drags I might setup the IAT sensor as a general purpose one instead so it wont affect the tune. The IAT sensor is down near the pod filter on the back side of the intake tube. Towards the end of the day I turned the radiator fan on full time to keep some airflow going. On the launch and burnouts man there were some big smacking sounds coming from engine bay hahaha. A few times I thought an axle might have popped out. I think pod filter hits the bumper, but also sounds like the engine mounts hit limit of their travel or something. Currently standard rubber in the mounts with shore A 60 polyurethane filling the gaps. I think maybe I need to do some full poly mounts, and maybe go shore 80 for the rear one.

This is what I was up against with the IAT situation, just looking at some logs. IAT approaching 70 degrees while staging! So because I've mostly tuned this during colder conditions, I've been on the conservative side of things for high IAT for knock related reasons. I've never seen IAT anywhere near this, usually because car keeps moving while I'm doing anything fun. So I think I need to better shield the intake from engine bay heat, but also there's not necessarily much I can do about it if the car is just sitting there for minutes at a time. I'm only running about 25 deg max advance, but it's pulling out 7 deg in first gear because of heat. So I'll try get to a nightwars next time, assuming they start up again at some point.

Made it to the drags! Man it was overcast but steaming hot today, during staging I was getting 60 degree IAT, then down to about 40 by the end of the run. Was like a sauna in the car with the windows up and no fan or anything haha. Anyway, my best overall time was 14.74 @ 94.6 mph with a 2.572 60 foot. I had my fastest trap speed earlier in the day when it was cooler, did a 95.58mph. Which was funny, although I was slower quarter time, I ended up trapping faster than the V8 SS Ute that was in the other lane Was an awesome day, so much fun! Only issue was the alternator detentioning itself a bit. Clutch got a bit soggy after some burnouts. Despite everyone telling me that I shouldnt run a standard clutch, well guess what? Yeah they were right. So basically, yeah, my launches suck. Definitely need to abandon 185 wide front tyres if I'm going to further my drag racing career haha. I reckon there's a few more MPH in it with a better exhaust, as I'm still running the standard pea shooter system. Will work on things some more and head back! Hopefully they will run night speed again, so I can get some cooler IATs. Maybe need to look at better partitioning and heat shielding the intake from the engine bay air.

And that good taper too

The reason I made my tippy ones previously. Is that if theoretically the idea of a really big bellmouth works, then it's going to work less well on the middle ones where you've chopped off so much of the sides. Or, it's going to scavenge air out of the adjacent cylidners which seems just as bad. Yet as we found out, it didnt help anyway. Will be interesting to see how these go! Can peach cans please become the baseline test

Congrats on first shake down! One thing to consider is that even if power were the same, your power to weight ratio has improved on account of the weight loss. And less weight in the heftiest part of the car, so there are handling gains too. Also the peripheral benefits you mentioned at the start, like excellent aftermarket support means there's heaps of scope for development. I'm stoked to see it running, look forward to seeing further developments! I reckon you can easily wring a bit more out of the motor with some tweaks. The best part and most fun part is definitely yet to come. Thanks for your efforts to document the actual changes etc, I think this is legitimately the first time I've seen an attempt at a fair comparison.

Going through results from this, gains super arent huge, but it's something. However I'm now happy that the VVTI situation is as good as resolved, as I've got a good working range while still keeping the full high comp. Now I will be able to see full benefits from a good exhaust. So that's next on the list. Coilovers and some slam would be cool, but out of budget for the next long while. EDIT: I refined the tune a bit, and yeah its picked up some midrange, can pretty easily see the difference compared to last! Feels great, I'm happy with it. Glad to have this bit ticked off the list. Based on some of the stuff that KPR has done, it would be interesting to see if that big steep increase at 4k rpm improves with a better exhaust. There's drags on at Meremere this sunday, if the stars align I might get there.

Yeah all of the prius electric stuff happens in the gearbox, and apparently they are heavy as hell. So the 5 speed earns its keep for fun factor and keeping the weight down. Sooo because I was annoyed that it still looked like it wanted more advance. The rolling pin idea that @Spencer posted was great, and I probably should have done this. But I retimed the chain so it was only 1 tooth back, and yep in this position valves hit pistons. So I made a fairly ghetto stopper that jams between the housing and the existing stopper pin. It looks like it could fall out but it cant (famous last words...) I had a few issues getting vvti working again at first, I found that my stopper was *slightly* slightly slightly too long compared to the depth of housing. So it was creating a tiny gap to the lid so the oil could pour out with less resistance - so not enough to move the cam or disengage the pin. Fixed that, and have just been for a hoon to see how new angles look. Results are awesome, there's now a distinct cross over where various angles are better than the other. So a max of 37.3 deg with the stopper in place. Awesome! So that's 17.3 deg advance over normal cam timing's home position. So I could still potentially have another 20+ deg over that, with piston cutouts - but it doenst look like it's going to be necessary. As I've got a cross over point from max advance at around 5500rpm. Still going through the results to make a new VVTI map, but its looking promising.

After I got my VVTI angles sorted, and the fuel map dialled in, everything seemed good - but it wasnt... Airflow was obviously up, fuel was right, why was it feeling sluggy and shit? I thought I might be imagining things, because everything looked good in ECU. But did some virtual dyno'ing to check. Confirmed I seem to have lost about 15hp pretty much everywhere. Did some basic troubleshooting, nothing seemed amiss with spark, etc. I thought maybe the tyres were getting flat so pumped them up. The motor also smells oily, but no visible leaks anywhere? Then I had a thought... ohhh.... I check the dipstick - yep I'd managed to overfill the engine with oil probably by about 2 litres haha. I forget these tiny engines take hardly any oil. I thought it would have been underfilled with the amount I put in, so didnt check because I am an idiot. Must have been absolutely beating the piss out of the crank to lose that much hp from windage. But now it's running good again after draining it. I might see if I can advance it 1 more tooth on the chain without hitting anything, but this will likely be reaaalll close. The fuel map currently looks like this, could definitely rev out some more if I put on my brave pants stupid hat

Hahahahaha cant wait!

Not much new to show, it's mostly the same right now but a bit quieter with the airbox on. Need some events to go to!