Roman

Hey man, I'd be super keen to see this thing out on track again! Was stoked that you gave me a ride along on the orientation lap for last years nats, still grinning when I think about how fun this car was. Should get a few guys together and hit up a Hampton trackday!

Seeing this turn up to the Display in Nelson, full of girls, with Rap music blaring out the windows... Holy shit that was amazing!

Nah fuck that. Low cars are unfun to drive, this is smiles per mile dialed to max.

Nah use oxo cubes.. same result, but you get some soup to drink while replacing gaskets

*UZA60 The bonnet sits pretty close to that top radiator support, are you sure that the bonnet is going to fit with that Radiator outlet sticking up that high? This one's a good shell with good panels. I wish you all the best but cant help but cringe a little when I see bits being chopped out already tbh. Especially if getting a different radiator ends up being the solution anyway. Be on the conservative side with that cut off wheel and good luck! Let me know when you're next at the shed and I'll come visit in mine some time soon. P.S. Dont pull off the outside window trim, ever ever ever.

Yes, but until now it's not been entirely clear how it functions. The hard limit each way is 20%, as per what I found in some OBD documentation and this also correlated with the fuel pump problems causing a 20% raise in injector duty cycle. Which was the upper limit. Of course, but it acts in a predictable way and I've now got realtime information as to what exactly it's doing. So not only could I plan modifications around how it operates, but I can also get feedback of exactly how it behaves in response. Rather than pumping assumptions into a magical box and hoping you're correct with no actual feedback. The way the fuel trim works based on observation is that it changes based on rpm and load, rather than blanketly smothered across the fuel map. So it effectively acts a secondary table that's plonked over top of the first one, with adjustment values for different areas of the map. So the net result is a +-20% allowance in injector size, apart from if running 20% smaller required over 100% duty cycle to not run lean. Yes, this is exactly what happens. I'm fine with that. Regarding the standard ECU thing, I've seen a few really clever ways to retain them and work awesomely. My favourite was a 5EFTE(?) powered starlet which was NA converted to turbo - They put in a new map sensor that had twice the pressure rating of the old one, and also fitted injectors twice the size. And the ignition was either mechanically controlled or retarded to suit... So the engine thought half as much air was coming in, so put in half the amount of fuel... Which turned out to be exactly correct. Some may say that's a bit of a bodge, but if it works well then it's actually pretty bloody clever!

And yeah ill chuck it on the dyno once ive had the exhaust redone. wideband in the tailpipe wont tell much with the current number of exhaust leaks haha. ive heard of guys with altezzas trying to use piggy back computers but then after a week its back to exactly how it was before when dynoed again. so its more than just adjustment at low load. and the long term fuel trim values i can see back that up too.

yeah that could be a good plan Ned. I just need to get the remote sorted to switch the camers off and on first though as its already awkward to reach. althouugghhh having it centred means you dont see one side of the windscreen looking bigger than the other with a wide angle lense which sooths my photo nerd ocd

God damn, it's good to be at the point of a project where you can start doing some fun stuff again! I took my Dad for a bit of a drive around yesterday, he's helped me out to no end on this project and so it was pretty cool to go for a drive and celebrate how far we've managed to come with it. I've got a trackday on April 14th at Taupo (All welcome, PM me for more details or see the thread in the 'upcoming events' subforum for more info!) So I've been trying to suss out what would be the best camera angle, which shutter speed and FPS works best, etc etc. My Decent microphone has run out of batteries so there's only some muffled doort noises from the onboard mono mic on my DSLR in this vid but just to get a bit of an idea: And with a time setup I took a few long(ish) exposure pics on the way back: Who needs a supercharger whine, when you've got my diff? lol. Looking forward to getting the exhaust remade so it's a little less raspy as well. I will work on getting some better sound quality, I've got a few tricks up my sleeve! I think I might mount a mic in the engine bay near the airbox, and have the right channel recording off the DSLR mic and the left channel from the engine bay. Or something like that, will have a bit of a muck around and see what works well. Generally speaking I think the most enjoyable in car videos are ones where you can see what the driver is up to, as well as being useful feedback for how you were doing things wrong later on. So might rejig the angles a bit so there's less roof and more gear shifter etc. I've got a pretty grunty spare tripod so I might get all 'Misery' on it and give it some different feet that wont move. So it mounts in the car nice and sturdily without any worry that I'm going to cop a DSLR in the face at 180kph if (when...) I spin out. discuss //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21625-romans-cod-piece/page-6

Haha yep a lot better since then. Have fixed about half a dozen squeaks and rattles, handling much better, engine running a LOT better and the exhaust sounds better when the motor isnt running rough as guts. Getting exhaust redone this week so its got more ground clearance and sounds a bit nicer hopefully. Then just on to tidy up type tasks like fitting all of the external trim properly, hiding some wiring in the cabin etc etc. Feelsgoodman.jpg

New wheels are gonna look awesome! Nice that you can bypass the 4x114 tax

Cheers Richie! I've since eliminated 95% of the fuminess (put some carpet down in the back, replaced rear hatch seal, put some rubber bungs in some of the body holes) So it's much nicer, will take you for a dooort v2.0 some time soon.

Bahahahaha.

Soooo top of the page! So back to pictureless ranting about tech related gibberish. There's been a lot of speculation about what the factory Toyota ECUs can or cannot do, in terms of being self learning etc. Since I've had the OBD diagnostic program hooked up, and then using the program called 'Torque' on Android, I've had access to an unparalled WEALTH of nerdy information about the engine. You can set up virtual gauges, or datalog ANY engine parameters you can think of. So something I've just found it useful for just today, is testing an injector size swap. The standard injector size for the Redtop 3SGE engine is 315cc. The standard injector size for the Altezza 3SGE is 340cc. One of my redtop injectors busted itself, and they are difficult to find. So I thought I would swap in a set of Altezza injectors and see what happens. Being a larger injector, you would obviously expect it to cause the engine to run rich. I set up two gauges on my tablet, one which monitors the short term fuel trim (this is like real time adjustments via the oxy sensor) and the long term fuel trim (This is where if something is lean or rich often enough at a particular load/rpm, it will adjust the actual value on the map) I fitted the new injectors, and took the car for a drive. After a while it showed that the engine sensed it was running too rich, so was incrementally reducing the amount of fuel going in. -1%.... -2.4% .....-5% etc and then eventually settled on -7.8% and didnt budge from there. Which is interesting, because.... 340cc * 7.8% = 26.5cc 340cc - 26.5cc = 313.5cc The ECU successfully guessed the size of the new injectors, to within 1.5cc and compensated perfectly for it, within an hour of driving the car. Mind blown!

GREAT SUCCESS

Sure thing Fels. It's a bit fumy in the cabin at the moment and the brakes are super squeaky. But still fun to drive.

Surprisingly economical! On a trip to Thames im averaging 9.0 litres and 0.5 police stops per 100km. I went through my wof and reg yesterday (and have the stickers, receipts, wof sheets etc in the car) However it hasnt gone through on the system that the cops look at yet apparently. So the guy was like "Wait a minute, this says it was last wof/reg in 2007, and the car is white. Can you open the bonnet please" He had bit of a look around under the bonnet etc, and goes "Are you sure this car used to be white, I dont see any white bits" And I was all like "I know, right?!" *smugface* He was also asking me questions about why the zeros on the numberplate didnt have a strikethrough thing, but the ones on the reg sticker did. Honestly how do you answer such a dumb question? It's a different font because it's one of the older plates, I'm sorry if that breaks your brain officer. lol.

Sweet jibbily Jesus I have a Road legal Carina!! Despite the fact that it's been horribly unreliable even on short trips such as: -Drive to certifier -Drive to wof place -Drive to get some petrol I thought a fitting celebration would be to drive the damn thing effing far away from home and make some super loud doort noises to annoy some cows. Went for a mish to Kaiaua: It's a bit fumey in the cabin, and there are few things to still work on. But after 8 years or so it's a damn good feeling to get to this point!

Yeah that's what I tried for starters - Took it to Penrose Automotive who to their credit were VERY thorough and came up with some issues that needed tending to which I resolved. But they werent willing to budge on the exhaust noise issue, said I needed paperwork from cert man or VTNZ before they would allow it. Which sucks as it's not all that loud. No hard feelings towards Penrose Automotive though, I would take my daily driven car there for a wof for sure. It just ended up easier going elsewhere for this. At least until I get a quieter exhaust. But, that's how I ended up at the VTNZ.

Sooooo trying to get a WOF has been a giant fuck around mainly due to exhaust noise. I ended up taking it to VTNZ as the guys there said that although it was loud, he wouldnt fail me on that as he thought it was acceptable. It was quiet there so ended up with three of the VTNZ guys, with varying competency, going over it with a fine toothed comb. They found the following issues: 1. Failed on wheel spacers on the front (Which is interesting, seeing how said spacers do not exist) 2. Failing to comply with 100mm ground clearance (Which is funny, because that's why I've got a fucking cert plate morans) 3. Rear brake imbalance (Fair enough) 4. Mismatched wheel nuts on the right rear side... Two open faced, two closed. Oh the humanity! Luckily there was some boss level VTNZ guy who talked some sense into them about the ride height, they had another look and didnt see spacers, then I rushed off home to replace the brake pads and change the wheel nuts. Rush back to VTNZ at 4.59pm pretty much just as they are pulling the roller door down for a recheck, super stoked that I'm about to get a wof. Then this happened: Haha damnit! Fixed it now, hopefully tomorrow it'll pass, unless the guy finds a dead beetle in my washer bottle tank or something equally dangerous. Fred: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21625-romans-cod-piece/page-6

Ahhh well, at least it's an easy fix! Good to hear

62psi would give the best spray pattern if that's what the injectors are designed for. But 50 would be fine if that's what you tune your car for. Also if you want to clean the filter for the VVTI. You need to take off the front main cam cap, the one that has both sides in one piece and has about six bolts holding it down. Then the filter is located either in that piece, or the head directly below it (cant remember which) Toyodiy seems to suggest it's in the cam cap thing. So it's a cambelt off job, bit of a bugger really!

If your fuel pressure is low, could it be an issue with the fuel pressure regulator rather than the fuel pump? Also, are you using standard Altezza injectors? As they are 340cc injectors when run at the factory 60psi, but according to the maths are only about 275cc if run at 40psi.

You dont need airbags in front of you, if you hit a tree backwards at 150kph

Modern enhancements like these save lives. Even if it's only something like 0.000005% difference, that could be 1000 people who are pretty happy not to be dead! Another thing, is that some people go on about how a car without ABS can stop quicker with a good driver. Perhaps in ideal circumstances, but lets say you're turning into a corner while on the brakes and then there's a rough or slippery patch or whatever, and one wheel loses grip and locks up. You need to take your foot off the pedal and therefore all FOUR wheels brakes off to correct the problem. Unless you've got four feet running four brake pedals, then it's physically impossible to acheive what ABS can do, which is regulate the braking on just one corner if needed. There's no doubt in my mind that a sporty car with modern ABS vs non, over 100 different circumstances (Except for gravel I guess) the ABS comes out on top. In saying this, I definitely agree that lots of power, lots of mechanical grip, and lots of fasts do not necessarily mean a car is going to be fun to drive. A bog standard KP60 starlet is probably still the most grin inducing car I've yet to drive.