Roman

It's got an electronic throttle body, when you pull the cable it only moves the throttle plate 45 degrees. Anything above that is controlled by the ECU and whether it 'lets' you have full throttle etc. So it's got a TPS that measures what you're wanting to do, and then a TPS on the other side that the motor uses to determine where the throttle plate actually is. It works well enough but if you're going to an aftermarket ECU best to just bin all of that junk and turn it into a normal cable pull throttle body.

Took it for a drive... I'm not good at distinguishing fact from placebo when I cant datalog things. But it actually feels smoother and a bit revvier. Might be the imagination at work though. Next drag or trackday though and I'll get some more GPS data to compare. Some other Davescience that I've been fluffing around with - The intake manifold has a rubber spacer at its base, to stop the head from heat soaking the intake manifold. Which works pretty well, but the manifold still gets quite hot from radiant heat in the engine bay. Which ends up doubly bad because I've made the return line for coolant from the back of the head come under the intake manifold. So for testing purposes I thought I'd wrap the shizzle out of it with foam/foil insulation and a judicious amount of duct tape and see if it keeps it any cooler. I've only driven it at night time so far, but after over an hour of driving the manifold and throttle body stay as cool as when you first start the car - used to feel hot to the touch after maybe quarter of an hour or so. The intake temps still creep up by 3-4 degrees by the time the radiator gets hot though so it's still heat soaking a little bit. Might wrap the rest of it and see if that makes a change. Otherwise it might be hot air spilling out the front of the radiator and into the air intake causing it. Not sure if this makes any useful difference but it's not doing any harm apart from making my engine bay look ugly so it can stay for the moment. If it ends up working well I can pretty it up later somehow.

Nominal bore bores Nominal.

Took the extractors off, to get a suspected exhaust leak fixed (Cheers Sentra Dave!) I was just about to put it all back together, when I noticed... The head has been ported on this motor, but the exhaust manifold doesnt match. Woops. so that 'step' has been impeding flow straight off the bat. So I spent a shit tonne of time today grinding the ports out larger to suit, god stainless filings are awful! I dont want to do that again. All finished now, havent had a chance to drive it since then but I suspect this could be worth a horsepower or two! This change might be worth a little bit of time on the drag strip, cant wait for a rerun once traction brackets are sussed! If I get really desperate I could pull out all of the interior too, hahaha. Something in the 14.0 - 14.2 kinda region would float my boat for sure.

Awesome! Thanks I'll give you a shout

Dont see why not... Do you have an M12 tap?

I believe it is/was an M10 1.25.

Hmmm okay. Not much chance of getting it fixed until after the stat days etc. sad face

Fuck ive stripped the thread for exhaust manifold on the head of my engine. Best way to fix?

I saw an iron pipe today it was Fe nominal

Intradesting http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=931366&postcount=111

Yeah I've got a good GPS unit that I can use to measure gear pulls or whatever too, but I only ever really use it on the racetrack where I can measure consistent results in a similar way... I find if going along random stretches of motorway or whatever, a slight dip or rise in the road can make just as much difference as anything else so it seems too tricky to get meaningful results. Where as a scatter plot of MAF readings or temps or whatever, you can accumulate data over multiple runs to verify your findings a little more thoroughly. Drag racing is a cheap form of dyno though, at the Oldschool drags day it ended up costing me about $5 per run down the strip I didnt make any changes on the day, but if going to a similar event with a few different intakes to try or whatever is a pretty good way to measure 3rd gear pulls etc.

I cant wait to get a tunable ECU one day and just be able to adjust the damn thing instead of playing around with smoke and mirrors hahaha. But there are still useful ways I can analyze physical changes to the motor, which is cool! Dyno time is expensive so it's good to have other options for tinkering and seeing what works etc. I guess I can buy a wideband in the meantime, and run it in parallel with the narrowband. That would have definitely answered the question today as to whether it was a MAF signal or lack of air causing the difference.

Yeah its just an air mass graph but in order to make more power, you need more air so they go reasonably hand in hand. On a previous engine I had an apexi pod filter setup with a really nice pipe back to the throttle body. Dynoed at 150hp at the wheels, with a horrific loss of low rpm power. I eventually found a factory airbox so fitted that... Dynoed at 170hp at the wheels with a whole heap more low/mid range power. but no one had figured out how to datalog the factory ECUs back then, so thought I'd try again to see why. The MAF sensor needs to be fitted in the correct size pipe though, cant go bigger or it would definitely make the engine run lean. But yes, there are three possibilities here - one is that the engine is sucking in way less air, so lower readings. One is that there is turbulence or something causing the MAF sensor to read a lot lower. The third option is that there's turbulence or something that causes the MAF to read lower, AND less air to suck through. Based on the way the curve has changed though I'm guessing it's an airflow / tuned length issue though rather than solely a MAF problem, as otherwise I wouldnt expect the 'dip' to move up or down the powerband. I guess the way to isolate it is to try again with a different length of pipe on. If the readings stay about the same, it's likely a MAF signal issue. Thinking about it some more I am a bit skeptical that a tuned length before the throttle body could make so much difference, but I dont see why the MAF readings would be so much lower than with an airbox.

My car has a live axle... But to pass cert I had to have 0 degrees camber up front, as factory alignment is positive 1 degree. Makes any plans for low at the front a bit of a mish, depending on tire/wheel/offset/etc.

The 'Japanese' style is pretty much the only thing people seem to do now, I dont think I've seen a dumpy or bolt ons for 15 years haha. Have a search in the project section here, there are a few very cool KE70 projects kicking around already! Also, google 'Motorfix'. I would say they are the most hardcore KE70 fans on the planet haha. Also if you're planning on lowering it some more, which I wouldnt reccomend. Have a read on the camber laws and tire laws. Makes it pretty well impossible to have a road legal example of what you're likely planning.

Pic from the drags: Okay so now that's out of the way, back to being a nerd. Soooo it seemed to show some improvements since I had a play around with the airbox, but it's still using the same airbox if you know what I mean. This is what it ended up looking like: I've been kinda wondering though how much of a loss I'm getting simply from the airbox and filter itself. So I thought I'd experiment with using just an airflow meter housing (at exactly correct diameter to the other one) and a length of PVC pipe on the front of it with a fairly crude bellmouth made by heating and bending the end. No air filter or anything, which is not something I am keen on but for the sake of my very dubious science I thought I'd drive around enough with it to get some comparable data to the airbox. First impression, is that sweet effing jesus the induction noise is loud! I think it's louder than the exhaust which is fairly obnoxious already. Intake temps were up, the motor was pinking at low load, (From the temperature increase?) and at full throttle.... Hmmm hard to tell either way, which is why datalogging is good. It also wasnt much fun to drive as I was paranoid about getting rocks in my motor. But anyway, when looking at the graph and comparing to the airbox, the (surprising) results speak for themselves! Essentially the engine now makes the power at redline that it previously used to below 6000rpm. So for whatever reason, a straight piece of pipe with no air filter, flows less air than an air filter box which has to pull through a filter and around a few turns. To be honest I'm really surprised to see such a difference (especially a difference in the opposite direction to expected) Wizard magic! Time to put the airbox back on hahaha.

Autospeed has articles on this subject proving that its worthwhile. If you have the scoop at an existing high pressure area within existing vehicle profile then theres zero difference to drag apart from removing several thousand litres of air per minute from an area where the high pressure is causing drag. Example, front radiator panel area behind bumper or whatever. Agree that a ling spec bonnet scoop or whatever is probably no good. But in case of carina the bonnet is a low pressure area anyway with no flow.

What i mean is that a smaller engine only consumes a small mass of air per minure. So with a smallish cross sectional area of the scoop you can maintain positive pressure in the scoop at a lower speed. When you are huffing in 2000hp worth of air you need a huge cross section to keep positive pressure. So a lower power engine gets a bigger % of gain from ram air.

Yeah i guess regardless of motor size you get 2hp or so worth of air. So more beneficial to low power cars. Or things as above where youre going for 10/10ths

Bahahaha!

The flat earth is suspended on an essential layer of backpressure.

Interesting that they mention power loss when going to 3" exhaust from 2.5".... Oh god not this again

Aahh so just some gif files from my thing before.. Big gif files so click the links. http://iforce.co.nz/i/1dm2kvwj.4fd.gif http://iforce.co.nz/i/tmwz3uk3.fvw.gif Most of the air spills back out of the big trough thing so could probably keep downsizing it until that stops happening. Or keep lowering the vehicle speed to see how big it needs to be to work at XYZ speed.