Unclejake

I have mainly seen blow through on SU carbs. Old V8 Fords etc. could be had with blow through using Paxton Superchargers and Ford brand Holley 94s. One other option is to lower your compressor speed by changing pulleys until the carb can manager it. Lowering the float bowl setting MIGHT help too. I know nothing about what you are trying to achieve - I am just guessing.

Draw through = the carb is not pressurised. Blow through = exactly what is happening to you.

That sucks. Sorry to hear it.

Any update Boe?

Filters. A wise man once told me you get more HP without air filters but only for the first few hours as after that your engine has accelerated wear. Possibly true.

Stand on barthroom scales with and without Flywheel FTW. Don't do poose inbetween time.

I have a similar thing but have not used it yet. Mine does it only on G forces but you program in the weight etc. Mine does lateral Gs too so you can see if your changes to suspension are having a positive or negative affect on handling. It stored 2 gig of data I think - you download it to the laptop etc and compare laps/runs stz. P.S. - It doesn't weigh much EDIT: Mine measures RPM via the alternator frequesncy. Probably quite inaccurate but whatever.

Bonnet and boot = fibreglass. They are light and don't have to be the same weight as the originals. Guards can be made from fibreglass but do have to be the same weight as originals. The guard rule is to make replacement guards more available. Glazing = cheap acrylic that scratches when you look at it hard. It is a lot lighter than glass and also easier to drill/screw/rivit etc. Seat = Racetech 4000. Got too scared to use a Kirky. Even though they are legal etc. I can't imagine an alloy shell being quite as safe as a fibreglass one. Probably wrong but that is the way it went. Broken spine = FTL Hole saw is for everything and everything is for the holesaw. Got new bumpers coming too.... but that can be another project update

Chur boe. If I can manage to find some light wheels I think I will loose 58.5kgs. That will finiosh the car at just over 780kgs dripping wet - still too heavy to be really competitive but an improvement. To get the car lighter again I will need to relax a bit on the presentation (read remove bog) which I am not prepared to do as I am so vain. Yes - I weigh everything. I am 100% obsessed/anorexic/retarded/have no life etc. Some things just aren't worth spending the time on - but I do them anyway and some things will probably break - so when they do I will drill less holes in the new one. Rocket Surgery FTW

No rush dude.

V8Pete - after all that research you finally painted the garage floor! It looks like a great place to work. Choice

I don't know about them getting brittle with just age. It is a bit out of my field of expertise. A full cage in Chrome Molly will be between $2,500 - $3,500 (homologated) from someone down here and would be 3 - 5kgs lighter if I recall properly. It will have to wait as I would rather have new wheels

The existing cage is steel. The main hoop and rear stays are one piece - only to two front stays come off. I can get it in and out of the car if there are no seats in the way. A chromemolly cage is in the planning stages but the car will probably go back together with the steel cage first. There are O/S Nationals to think off!

One or two cool things have happened in the shed over the last few weeks. Very happy!

Before you order that new flywheel go have a chat to The Toyshop. The previous owner used to race a v12 XJS and had a spare flywheel and triple plate Tilton clutch that he tried to sell me a few years ago. They will know where to find him.

The box stays in. You only need to undo the speedo cable and one bolt Boe - easy as. Once the bolt is undone the alloy speedo drive thingee just levers out. There os an O ring in there that will come out with it. First I would take off the cable and dose the area with brake clean to make certain you can see where the oil is coming from. It is possible that it IS coming out trough the drive pawl - if so you can goo the inside of the pawl up with sealant.

15 minute job.

You can put any driven plate you like in so long as the thickness and diameter are correct for the pressure plate.

Crankshaft thrust bearings are stuffed?

The bodywork looks sensational Sheepers. Well managed!

I think that we have found a single new one so we are prolly ok - I will PM you if we get stuck. Thanks for the offer.

Dude - working outside at night in the raining Wellington winter whilst lying on the wet ground and grinding shit into your eyes = only for hard cunts. Chur. You are bullet proof.

It loks really clean. Original owners handbook still in the footwell pocket = FTW

I always spam tech threads - but hey.

They are stunning if you get held up at the start line with a red flag. The circulate at the same rate (60 litres per minute I think) regardless of engine revs and it is when parked that engines can get really hot IMHO. I have removed the impellor from the mechanical waterpump and only use it as an entry port for the water. That also buys you extra room between the radiator and the front of the engine for an electric fan. Keeping the superior mechanical fan would be a bit tricky in my scenario. The EWP just hangs in the bottom radiator hose - I have not mounted mine to the body at all and that has not caused me any issues to date. They are about the same price as a cheap alloy radiator (like the one I bought on Sunday off TardMe) Edit - the EWP circulates at 80 litres per minute. http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=47