Unclejake

By all means remove any factory castings and smooth the ports if there are any harsh angles but a modern head probably can not be much enhanced without major surgery. A die grinder with a selection of stones and flapper wheels (sandpaper wheels) it good but you will probably need an extension to get deep into the port. In all honesty it is probably a waste of time but if you have nothing to loose it could be fun. Port matching requires your manifolds and bearing blue. You will probably find that they are really close already. The marvels or modern Japanese engineering. Have you already revoved the counter balance shafts from the motor? Peace.

True - it scares me though so I don't do it myself. Infact I don't touch my engines at all anymore. Too chicken.

The only reason to have any made would be if you could not find a rod with the dimensions you want. It isn't cheap. IMHO one of the best places to send any balancing work is Collier Motor Engineers in Levin. Colliers will lighten, stress relieve, balance and shot peen a rod for about $100-$125 each. They are also very good for crank balancing as they have a $75,000 balancer EDIT - If you only wanted the shot peening I guess at $45 per rod.

I do it sometimes (lighten and polish) but I have the right gear and scales that go to 0.1 gram. To lighten and balance a conrod you really need two scales so you can match the end weights. I have never actually end weighted a conrod - I pay someone else to do it. Old Ford four cylinder conrods can have about 180grams removed from them safely (I think - it has been a while and I would need to refeer to my notes etc.) The best option is to lighten them and then send them away to be balanced and shot peined. That is the strongest option for modified a factory rod. I had a set made in Australia a few months ago (forged) - I don't have them with me to photograph but they are SEX!

Thanks Orally - I am drilling holes in her this weekend so perhaps I am taking your advice

He da man then aou.

Type 16s weight about 4.1 kgs with pads in. My new calipers weigh about 1kg with no pads

Lucky escape...... (been there, done that etc.)

Way back in the late 80s I owned a doublecab 4x4 Hilux for surfing etc. Had a 3Y motor I think When trying to chose one to buy I drove one that had a twincam 2 ltr motor in is. I seem to recall it was an 18RU os something like that. The lasting impression was of a fantastic motor that was completely and utterly unsuited to the wide ratio gearbox in the Hilux. It was bloody awfull and would fall off the cam between gearchanges. Just something to think about Peace.

Anything motorcycle or marine is expensive. Three engines the same with bad cranks probably means that either the engine has an instrisic design flaw or it is not being used as intenmded by the manufacturer. If it is a G-kart then grafting another known motor into it is probably the best idea. Preferably one you can ride first to make certain it is not stuffed. My little brother bought a Katana sight unseen off Tardme a few weeks ago. You guessed it - bad bigends and piston slap. The parts alone are 70% of what the bike cost him.

^ Dang. I used to be that Suzuki had different coloured bearings for different journal sizes - but I am guessing you have been down that path already. It is easy to throw good money after bad...........

What is the motor that you want to build up the crank?

^ If you have all the leads on correcty then your timing is too far advanced. Retard the bitch until she fires - then work out where it is supposed to be

Sounds like you know exactly what you are doing. Engine start is probably the best idea then - and if that doesn't work keep looking at the timing (I only say that because of the backfiring). I would have that when you moved the leads 180 degrees you would have seen some spitbacks through the carb though (as well as the backfiring). In the past on a few old hard to initially start Ford motors I have taken out all the plugs, cleaned them and then only fitted two plugs - that helps the motor turn over faster on the starter motor. Once the two plugs have fired a few times (the engine will normally start and idle badly) then I fit the other two. It doesn't always work and waiting for some mug to hold the can of engine start is probably a better way

And if you don't believe me rotate the motor until the rotor is pointing at #1 and you are at TDC. Then rotate the motor on the crankshaft one turn and you will find that the rotor is now pointing at #4

It can still be out by 180 degrees based on what you have described. Swap the leads around 180 degrees on the dizzy cap and try again.

^ agreed. Or you have messed up the firing order when you took the plug leads off.

Imp v

Looks like you might be fighting a losing battle with that engine. Lack of antifreeze is the #1 killer of decent blocks for Mk1 Cortinas too. It is a good and visible lesson eh? Peace boe

^ Prolly. Nobumps - what motor designation are you looking for parts for mang? I have many spies........... But finsh the Mercedes too would ya! It is the horniest one on the planet.

Well the headgasket that Nobumps reckons is a copy of a G161 sure looks like an OHC gasket to me - I don't know what a G161 should like like though.

I just had a quick look at Chris Bowden's website (he is in Northland) and he is showing headsets in stocl for Isuzus from 1967 through to 1990s. He specifically lists a G161 ($55) http://www.bowdenengineparts.co.nz He is a good cunt too.

Gaskets Unlimited in Kuemu West Auckland can make you a new head gasket

Manwhore? Engineer? What are you experienced in?

^ Yeah - the shed has been a bit crazy as a mate ended up with two race Anglias as well all jammed in there with the two 2 door Cortinas, the Mercedes a four door Cortina and a 66 Mustang. 'Twas hard to get the boat out lololololololol