Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Spencer

  1. Unfold the outer door skin (there are good youtube videos on this to do it good if needed) cut out that whole lower corner then make up some compound patches. Make it out of 3-4 bits, if you are using some nice new cold rolled steel you easily be able to bend that shit up by hand or over a pipe etc.
  2. Also for the noob with a mig (like me) use big tacks hotter than you would normally think, look at the back of the panel if you can and make sure its penetrating all the way through. Do like 10 tacks and then grind them and hammer as needed, you put way less heat in this way. Shrinking disc helps lots for finishing, but in this case hammer bog it up. Doing runs of weld will make things extra bendy and is for the expert or TIG welder type of chap. Those OG sanding discs with the backing plate on the grinder are great for finishing welds also, a bit safer and nicer finish that the flap disc in many cases/skill level. With the tack method, beating and sanding discs you can make patches look mostly invisible. Agree with above also that the whole bottom of the door will be rusty in the seam, depends how many cans of worms you want to open etc.
  3. Yeah just depends what turds are under the existing paint, I would say a few. This is rusted in all the same places as my wag was. How is the rear window sills? Dunno if you need tailgate rubbers and shit, I imagine they are melted. Save this guy for reference when you feel rich or the dollar is good, stop it rusting out the bottom of it again. http://einstyn.com/einstyn-tailgate-parts.htm
  4. Weld the rust, skim it and blend into existing bog, do it again in 10-15 years
  5. Its up to you what you can live with, bog isn't the devil. Just looks like a big skim was used on that door to hide all the sins and paint. Im a sucker for punishment so would strip it, whats your plan on paint in the end? just paint the rust repairs in patches and leave it rat spec which gets you back on the road faster, ghetto respray which take a bit longer? or full decent respray which would want a full strip down so you are not wasting the money? the finish you want to put on it will determine what you should do.
  6. Can you confirm that your 5MGE is the 52pin version? If so I will try nab any that show up on for sale in the future, I see a 5M crown or some shit in my distant future.
  7. Shit have you seen the MS2PNP stuff? The whole pre-built ECU's are pretty expensive but they did a run of all sorts of common nippo-denso ECU connectors which you put on a extension board and can plug and play your factory loom. Lots of the ones we would want are discontinued but I would hunt one down if I had a 80's Toyota EFI project because the normal MS connector is gay. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/diypnp/available-models/ I would have bought a few of the 4age ones just because if had know about them when they were available. A couple have come up on facebook MS groups.
  8. I can plug my data logs into virtual dyno, seems to work pretty well.
  9. Your MAF graph looks like my variable cam fuel tables in 2D /ling
  10. Old mate roman is on a quest for perfection (and its great). I change the intake, see I need more fuel and conclude I have won.
  11. On a MAP only tune wouldn't you just see that as a need for more/less fuel in the table?
  12. Glad this conversation has moved on from costs of EFI or the merits of soldering some garbage together. Tuning is the good bit.
  13. Anyone done any fuel economy tuning with a cat converter involved? Old cars I have fucked with with EFI had no cat so you can tune lean at cruise for some pretty decent economy gains. With the cat involved you are meant to aim for 14.7 at cruise so you don't cook it. I wouldn't trade off removing a cat as cars are smelly as fuck without em, but its interesting that modern cars don't use the lean cruise thing as it fucks emissions/cats. Guess they get better economy numbers though more efficient engine design etc.
  14. Off topicish but the hondata for K24 shit is super cool, keep all factory features but open up the ECU to full live tuning. Car even has built in wideband which makes shit so easy. Learning curve is steep to learn how Honda does the knock control and to make sure it isnt fucking with your changes. That and tuning 5 fuel tables for the variable cam timing is interesting. A great resource for all sorts of ECU tuning is this Evan guy: https://evansperformanceacademy.vhx.tv/ Sign up for a month and rip the videos you need, has full series of him live tuning all sorts of cool shit. Certainly gets you up to speed fast.
  15. Ah yeah you shouldnt have plugged all that in and just hoped it works. The ECU's and body looms will have different ways of powering things, you could be poking 12V into things that shouldn't have it and fry them. Really should have done a full forensic check of how the existing all works and what wires do what and then match that to pin-outs for the 1gge. I figure the main relay shit will be different which is always a trap on this era of Toyotas, the ECU switches power for a bunch of things (idle control, maybe injectors etc) its not switched off the key.
  16. Generally with modern shit the coolant lasts forever (200,000km) so usually put OEM in there because that is what is already in 90% of post say 2005 shit. Depending on brand of vehicle its pretty much same price as chain parts stores.
  17. MIx up like 4mm of paint and see how long until its hard. I have used clear in the past that you can sand super quick, it all depends.
  18. Yeah you can save it, watch some youtube videos if needed of how pros tackle fixing clear. I have made a mess of clear in the past and wet sanded it back and put more clear down a few days later, its not ideal but its not a sin. I mean really all the hard work is done getting it flat and in paint, whats a few more days of work in lock down to get it super slick.
  19. Yeah in honda land people tend to run urethane mounts and maybe a torque damper, has a little give but engine cannot tilt forward and back f-all.
  20. A bunch of torque dampers for thought below. https://www.swapshopracing.com/contents/en-us/d1425_Ingalls_Engine_Dampers.html
  21. For FWD shit it makes a amazing difference to gear shifts having solid mounts, everything just feels better mechanically. IN the honda factory k24 world factory things have pretty floppy engine mounts, common mod is a engine damper which I have messed around with (you can wind them up to solid spec), makes shifting and throttle feel (engine not flopping around with throttle input) way better. Downside is more vibration (NVH), if you solid mount it all then possibly crack some things depending on the setup. You could probably bang one of the many dampers out there to your setup very easily, they are like $150ish, you get no rocking back and forward plus don't have to make new mounts yet.
  22. Spencer


    6 years ain't shit on a car. You can get zinc 2 part epoxy if you wants the zinc.
  23. Spencer


    No single stage paints allowed son.
  24. Agree, as I said earlier if It was my car I would spend the money on custom shocks. Fucked around too many times with off the shelf ghetto swaps and you get what you pay for.
  25. Shocks that are short enough for a lowered live axle car plus have the valving and end types you want are not that common TBH IRL.
  • Create New...