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Spencer

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Everything posted by Spencer

  1. Try delete the ISCV and get it to idle on the throttle stop. Then you can go from there if you want it to work for cold start, idle up etc.
  2. I would chuck some injector cleaner through it also. One that has PEA in it that stuff actually works. Probably not the issue but if it’s been sitting with old fuel I have seen many a stuck injector from old fuel varnish /residue. what kind of idle control does it have? They can be pretty shit on these. I bought a manual 1ggze turd back in the day and as said above just had the idle wound up.
  3. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    I have a smaller 100mm china one and its lasted like 5 years and a fair few goes over cars. Keen on a bigger one at that price, they are mostly clones of the fancy ones so work sweet. Just as above questionable how long they last but for the hobbyist its a no brainer. If you are a ninja at aliexpress searching can probably get brushes.
  4. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    Sweet cheers. They are $89 dollarydoos here so will go grab one.
  5. Spencer

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    Shit I'd stick with scotch brite and prepsol.
  6. Spencer

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    Just trying to say for the millionth time that just because its 2 part doesn't make it extra deadly its urethane that is deadly in both single part (ie por15) and two part. No one freaks out about 2 part bog, or two part epoxy glues (kneed it etc) they get it everywhere.
  7. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    Pretty sure the cheapest epoxy primer will be PPG/Protec 408 Epotec, its about $60 in oz for a 1L "kit" that has paint, hardener and thinner. Get some mixing pots while you are at the paint shop so its easy to mix it up in one container then bin after. Also its no more deadly than rattle cans, its urethane that has the isocyanates not epoxy.
  8. Spencer

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    If you want to keep the car go buy 1L of epoxy its the correct tool for the job. Using 2 part filler over single stage primer is a mistake IMO, I have seen it eventually peel off plenty of times as the curing bog fucks up the shitty primers adhesion. If you must use rattle cans then bog on the steel (it will be what the bog data sheet says to do) then primer it, it will stick better this way. You can then do it again in 5 years
  9. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    Yeah go buy 1L and brush it on.
  10. How good is a box of rockauto parts that takes like 8 months to get around to installing.
  11. Those headers are going to be sweet. Whats the exhaust plan? you should do it for sure.
  12. you need that 3" zaust to match.
  13. Those engine dampeners work a treat, transfer a bunch of vibration but just whip it off when you go down the shops to get cakes.
  14. Off topic and @sheepers probably knows this but yeah looks like they are $1100->$1200 new from old toymods post (would have to verify this yourself) then on amayama 3.7 ratio is ~$1100. Part number crosses over with hilux which is what people always say but never seen anyone find one IRL and swap it. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4120129298 3.5 ratio slightly cheaper https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4120139467
  15. Yeah but the bolt patterns from memory are different like 10 bolts vs 6 bolts. Also FWD nuggets are wayyyyy shorter than RWD LSD's. Going on the TRD part numbers about 100 other C-series cars/models crosses over with the vitz part number so pretty good bet a C-series LSD works
  16. Most race class rules are one injector per cyl, they get the best power from outboards so that's there they go. As above there is lots to be done in the execution and the injectors spray pattern, pressure etc. I think some high end race classes were going super high pressure, to the point where classes have fuel pressure limits. I am not doing it myself so can't add much but it definitely makes good gains for NA if you invest the effort/moneys. I read that most of the gains are from the charge cooling rather than mixing, so maybe you need a hot manifold also? not sure. But I mean we have Glen who pops up on here who gained 9kw on his setup.
  17. I had to look because I doubt the vitz has a 7.5" crown wheel like the Altezza? Interestingly the vitz LSD number matches the ones listed for AW11, AE92 etc
  18. Have you printed some headers yet?
  19. Surely OS has a friendly wizard who will make you a header for some small change, that TRD one is pretty simple.
  20. That 7.4kw is before we bin the cat and fit a 3" zaust! 10KW gainz. On a serious note though the cam phasing will work better again once you open up the exhaust side somehow, especially the headers. Oh and offer that guy $100 for that TRD manifold.
  21. This is so good. Probably another 5-10hp+ in some headers and zaust, buy a box of bends and make spaghetti/mess
  22. Well done. After seeing your thread on wanting one of these I had seen a couple pre-facelifts in a mall car park on the same day. I since went to find any for sale just out of curiosity and they are very thin on the ground here, like one four door advertised in the whole country pretty much.
  23. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    Yup spot on, its so hard to see in the garage how thick/thin your 2K clear is going on so you need some experience to see the subtle differences in how you are applying it. Good thing is you can just cheese it on with a shit gun and still get a nice result by sanding and polish.
  24. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    Yeah epoxy primer holds out to heat better than anything else, really want a top coat on it though. As above basically modern normal car paint (2 part epoxy and urethane) works better than any of the old school engine enamels etc. I had the fancy KBS engine enamel on a few things and oil leaks eat it and peel it off, it takes the heat fine but not engine bay fluids.
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