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Everything posted by Spencer

  1. Will be easy to get whatever piston you want made for this if you have $$ (like $1500-2000 at a guess) we will need to up the kitty moneys though lol
  2. OK so we are pooling funds for some KPR headers and a block. Send some stockers and the tail pipe section off the back of them for template.
  3. Yeah my fan sharn is with the Buick which was a hot thing, has a massive stock radiator. Tried electric fans for less woooo noises from the engine driven fan. First semi-cheap electric fans were not enough would creep up at idle, then big expensive ones still creeping up, then made a shroud better but still shit comapred to stock would creep on the gauge in traffic. I figured the only way to make it work would be how the after-market kits seemed to do it, with a even bigger alloy rad (the stock one is honestly huge) and then with the bigger/better alloy rad you can fit two even more massive aftermarket fans with a shroud. I went back to engine drive as it moved 8 billion times more air, like a hot breeze blowing on your ankles when beside the car the electric fans did nothing like that just a small puff. I did use one of those Volvo jobs on something, they work pretty mint seem to move way more air than aftermarket fans but ugly as. So as above maybe try smash something factory in is the go.
  4. I think somewhere in the thread there is mention of ebay headers? but needs the exhaust changed to 3" so waiting on that. I would also send some corn for a new block, since this is the best build thread on oldschool etc.
  5. Yeah its pretty basic math that a 3" pipe is needed here.
  6. Yeah you dont need a spreader here the manual is above, pretty simple.
  7. ^ yeah good call. Amazingly this manual I used to use in like 2007 is still online. Pretty sure like 99% of the time the washers on the old diff that come out end up doing the job. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/manual.aspx?S=RA&P=32
  8. You should be able to dig up a manual for a Celica or something that shows detailed setup of the F series diff. From memory there are various sized shims to set the preload, you probably want the correct ones rather than grinding them. When I did a LSD swap to a Altezza torsen LSD the stock shims just worked close enough luckily.
  9. Yeah it will work without it done correctly but never idle and start nice, it will idle high and hunt around. Should be like one wire from the MREL pin to get the ECU to switch the relay for the injectors and idle shit. Can’t remember if it is +12 or ground but there is 1 million pin outs etc for these now days.
  10. Yeah I fucked that up a few times back in the day wiring these things up like a 4age with just power to everything off the key. If you haven’t the ECU needs to control the main relay (MREL pin on ECU?) which powers all the EFI things on the engine. Let’s it hold power to the idle controller to reset it. Been awhile though and could be a bunch of things, definitely don’t need the coolant on the throttle.
  11. Glad you are messing with outboards again. From what I read pretty much all the gains are from the charge cooling from the fuel phase change. They dont put them on bikes and race cars for zero reason. I mean we have old mates beams as a IRL example, he picks up like 10hp on his beast motor with 80-90% outboards, I just made that up beacuse CBF looking but its close to that. Most race car shit will run heaps of fuel pressre and spendy injectors to make it all work real nice.
  12. Yes forgive me I am a troll. But hard to beat a Q-jet on big donk for economy without reinventing the wheel. Has real small primaries and as said vacuum feedback on needles that drop down into the jets. You can dial up a real nice lean mix for cruise and when you crack the throttle up a small hill the needles pull out a tad and it give a safer mixture for the load. All that is fully adjustable with the needle spring pressure, taper and jet size so you could put a mean cruise tune on any donk. Secondaries are giant and easy to tune just change jets, usually stock dumps in super rich 12:1. The hard part is the idle system is kinda fixed so if you have a cam then you need to drill holes and/or change tubes to give a good idle. That is where everyone gives up and puts on a Holley because you have to lean and figure some shit out on the idle side. There is a book for that though from the guru guy.
  13. You are just inventing the quadrajet carb used on like every GM for 30 years? even has adjustable vacuum feedback on the cruise circuit to drop the fuel needles lower into the jets for max economies. Anyway put the throttles back on no dorts gets you banned.
  14. All the gainz are in that exhaust yo someone fax him some 3" tubing and a mig welder.
  15. Spencer


    Yeah as above. The black bits are just treated rust on top with rust underneath. Keep it wet with acid and get out a small wire brush and agitate it then if needed do another app of acid. Always wash with water, then get out the scotch brite and prepsol and clean for paint, you want bright white clean steel every time no residue or bullshit under the paint at all.
  16. Spencer


    Decent water trap setup then any gun really. I have painted with a shit bunnings gravity gun, just got extra orange peel then wet sanded it all out anyway.
  17. Dude get a engine dampner thing, they transfer all the vibrations but can just hook it up for the drags. They work amazing on FWD shit like this to stop the dreaded flappy engine.
  18. How are we going on the 3" exhaust front? what about some coilovers to drop it on the deck
  19. Shit yeah good outcome! I knew some form of jamming mechanism was in your future haha. 37 degrees is great. I have only played with the K24 stuff and you don't get shit out of using more than 40 degrees on them and its all mid range (generally right before going onto vtec big cam), you end up pulling it way back up top.
  20. So possible to make a lock out that mechanism? on k24 shit people transfer the larger k20 50degree VTC gear onto K24 which is meant to hit pistons (don't think it does) you can buy a lockout device which just is chucked in the chamber and stops it moving as far. Its literally a machined and hardened pin that floats around in the chamber and stops it opening as far lol. https://tractuff.com/products/tractuff-vtc-limiter
  21. Spencer


    If you used modern shit like urethane then there is no magical acid, alkaline or solvent shit that will easily remove it without being insanely strong. It’s a modern material that is meant to be chemically resistant. Mechanical removal is the only route. I have wire wheeled off a whole car of seam sealer where the paint didn’t work with it, it’s character building.
  22. Spencer


    You can brush the epoxy in there once you clean it up if you need. Then top coat it black or whatever.
  23. Spencer


    I don't think there is much difference in brands TBH. I have not painted a car in like 7 years due to house buying and all that shit. But I used protec epotec 408 because it was cheap, been through shit loads of it like 5 cars worth. Think PPG bought protec so the line up has changed, someone else will have more up to date info https://www.kustompaints.com.au/product/ppg-408-epotec-epoxy-primer-n14-white-5l-kit/ Um looking at that repair if I was being a cunt/critical I would say some of those welds looks like they were not very hot and have not penetrated well anyway? with a mig I would basically only use spots/tacks an inch apart but pretty hot so you get good penetration through to the back and the weld goes down pretty flat. Then clean them up and do the next round of spots, its slow as hell but less bendy bendy and things stick together pretty well and you can grind them flat knowing its actually welded through not just shit on top. Not sure if I would bother cutting it out at this stage, its up to you. Like I am sure other cavities have surface rust and shit so chasing perfection can be pointless when just getting it good enough and then doing it again in 10 years will do
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