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Everything posted by Spencer

  1. Dude get a engine dampner thing, they transfer all the vibrations but can just hook it up for the drags. They work amazing on FWD shit like this to stop the dreaded flappy engine.
  2. How are we going on the 3" exhaust front? what about some coilovers to drop it on the deck
  3. Shit yeah good outcome! I knew some form of jamming mechanism was in your future haha. 37 degrees is great. I have only played with the K24 stuff and you don't get shit out of using more than 40 degrees on them and its all mid range (generally right before going onto vtec big cam), you end up pulling it way back up top.
  4. So possible to make a lock out that mechanism? on k24 shit people transfer the larger k20 50degree VTC gear onto K24 which is meant to hit pistons (don't think it does) you can buy a lockout device which just is chucked in the chamber and stops it moving as far. Its literally a machined and hardened pin that floats around in the chamber and stops it opening as far lol. https://tractuff.com/products/tractuff-vtc-limiter
  5. Spencer


    If you used modern shit like urethane then there is no magical acid, alkaline or solvent shit that will easily remove it without being insanely strong. It’s a modern material that is meant to be chemically resistant. Mechanical removal is the only route. I have wire wheeled off a whole car of seam sealer where the paint didn’t work with it, it’s character building.
  6. Spencer


    You can brush the epoxy in there once you clean it up if you need. Then top coat it black or whatever.
  7. Spencer


    I don't think there is much difference in brands TBH. I have not painted a car in like 7 years due to house buying and all that shit. But I used protec epotec 408 because it was cheap, been through shit loads of it like 5 cars worth. Think PPG bought protec so the line up has changed, someone else will have more up to date info https://www.kustompaints.com.au/product/ppg-408-epotec-epoxy-primer-n14-white-5l-kit/ Um looking at that repair if I was being a cunt/critical I would say some of those welds looks like they were not very hot and have not penetrated well anyway? with a mig I would basically only use spots/tacks an inch apart but pretty hot so you get good penetration through to the back and the weld goes down pretty flat. Then clean them up and do the next round of spots, its slow as hell but less bendy bendy and things stick together pretty well and you can grind them flat knowing its actually welded through not just shit on top. Not sure if I would bother cutting it out at this stage, its up to you. Like I am sure other cavities have surface rust and shit so chasing perfection can be pointless when just getting it good enough and then doing it again in 10 years will do
  8. Spencer


    Hey boss, so yeah brunox or any single stage rust primer things go in the bin. Anything you paint on rust goes in the bin, in all the messing around I have done (painting panel steel and leaving it outside) any rust converter/primers are junk (they rust underneath all the time) Rust converting with acid or removing rust with abrasion then epoxy primer is the better solution every time, pretty much nothing has adhesion like epoxy primer. It is not really weather stable over the long term which is its downside, it is meant to be top coated and works super well with 2k urethane on top which is flexible and withstands the weather much better. That primer has no data sheets on that website? I am going to assume that 2K primer is urethane primer which is not for going straight on metal, it is generally the best shit for block sanding as it sands a little nicer and will usually have a mixing option to go on thick for blocking. A system many will use is epoxy on the metal, urethane primer high build for blocking then top coat. The paint stripper will probably not remove the seam sealer, it usually has to be scraped out. Had many issues with single stage primers & paints (and shit like POR15) reacting or not sticking to seam sealers so you want to test this out. Seam sealer should be urethane, generally they work best over the epoxy primer (which generally doesn't react with much shit) then bang the 2k urethane colour over the top but best to test your products out first before going crazy. for inside panels its tough. The best method IMO for rust patches is clean it all up and epoxy primer inside the repair and on the patch itself. Leave it to dry 24-48h and then clean up the weld areas and weld it in. Epoxy will hold out to welding a million times better than weld through primer but you have to have to wait for it to cure. since its already closed up just wax it. Get some 2k epoxy primer, its pretty safe to spray compared to Urethane 2K no isocyanates. I think I have said all this like 10 times
  9. I'm not seeing the required hole in the bumper for that filter?
  10. Note all the supertourers use ram air and point the airbox out the front, haz to be some gainz there but understand you dont have much space. So you will also need to move your motor back, fit a quaife sequential box and high pressure outboard injection.
  11. So we getting full cam phasing and shit? cannot remember what happened after all that, headers are on? eat a salad
  12. Hey man, I did it twice. Both times with the BMW camber bolts then slot the holes. There’s not much more to it than finding the part number for the bolts (like it’s been over 10years so I don’t know). Talk to the cert guy as you kinda want to beef up the area and make guides for the bolts to make it all smick. Also if it’s super slammed it may not get you back to where it needs to be, mine maxed out still had a few degrees from memory.
  13. Oh and watched the video must be pretty sweet with 112kw. Always liked the way a blacktop drives through the gears, even if they are smelly 20v. I guess some kinda cold air box/pod filter shit and 3” video are on the cards when you get that far?
  14. 3” exhausts are science.
  15. How many holes have you started drilling in it?
  16. I reckon a camera in there would be key to see if its engine harmonics or the belt/pulley setup harmonics causing the issue if that makes any sense. Maybe you are in need one of the most misunderstood and popular internet shit fight topics the harmonic dampener front pulley.
  17. Best project on oldschool LSD is the only way with a light front tugs, will be all sorted after that.
  18. It only took like 30 years to figure out the best 4AG combo with data haha. Turns out its a AE82 bigport of course
  19. So basically run the A43L (or whatever the code is) if you can find it, the manual valve body with overdrive and lockup. Or if you want to step into the future (like 1991) then run a A340 which comes in many flavours and can be run by a aftermarket controller or even a mircosquirt etc now days.
  20. Yes so a few versions of the electronics on those, the early more primitive version on early stuff (z10,x60 etc) is ghetto and using this big stepped TPS that outputs different levels to the controller. Then a more modern controller in the X70 stuff. The controller is separate from the ECU so could be standalone and if you dig hard enough you will find explanations on how in works and wiring diagrams in a mix of workshop manuals (used to always be a celica manual online etc). Have messed around with these in a attempt to use them as the cressida boxes were everywhere and the manual shift ones with overdrive were more rare. But never got that far as CBF rigging up a TPS etc.
  21. Guess depends what paint you are wet spraying currently? I think in industry its the same as car tech, you go to two part epoxy primer and two part Urethane top coat (you can buy industrial versions of these paints from automotive places). Epoxy primer has the best adhesion and Urethane is flexible and UV resistant. Knew a dude whos whole gig was blasting and painting cranes using that process. Maybe I am off but that's what I have seen. Its the same paints for pretty much everything you want to last (2pac epoxy+urethane) factory floors, home garage floors, cars everything. Its currently the best paint tech for durability.
  22. Its a old ECU on a lower spec car, newer ones have better systems to pick up a faulty sensor. A shitty O2 sensor also is a go for fuel usage on 4ages sometimes. You should be able to find a manual (they are bundled with the 4AG ones which exist on the net) and trouble shoot the various ECU things pretty easy, if you find a factory manual it will have some flow charts on what to check first for excessive fuel usage.
  23. Hmm I have been in a couple 700r4's and they seem sweet as? just a 350 with a overdrive and cable control, buy the cable bracket kit for your carb set it up and off you go? The move is probably a T400 and gear vendors overdrive box if you have the cash.
  24. Amayama are buying/onselling off OEM's direct in their home countries. They are stuck with database updates from OEM's (who don't give a shit about old parts), I buy lots of Honda shit for the daily from them and the stock listings are mint always get what you want at 1/4 local prices. OId mate rockauto controls the stock so they should have a tip top database.
  25. Spencer


    Yup I would have a practice before doing it again on anything important. Usually it goes on pretty thick and the only thing that fucks it up is the cold/damp, anything below like 15 degrees will slow it down lots IMO. But 4 days is pretty extreme. In warm weather you should be able to sand that stuff on the same day and it should really always set hard in the pot overnight.
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