Jase

you want it flat cut it out lay it on some ply and drive back an forth over it, the walls of my pops limeworks were drums split and run flat with a d8, apparently you just about need a rail spike to punch a hole in it , just as well pop just welded his shit together

44 gallon oil drums my friend bout $5 each slightly heavier gauge than most cars though, but have sweet ribbing for trans tunnels etc, waitomo petroleum sells them i believe down ellis st,

where are you man i can have that out in about 5 mins, step one get a punch and give it a good twack on the end of the bolt in the centre, centre punch with a point is best, now walk to your nearest place makers and buy a set of these , 8" stilsons bout 12 bucks worth being made by fuller with a bob the builder discount, and small enough to fit in the gap believe me the bolt i had to get out was cuntier than that, put a bit of pipe over the end and give it a good sharp tweak making sure it is gripping first, if it doesn't let go apply pressure and give the end another belt with the punch whilst someone else holds some force on it, these things eat vice grips for breakfast, best 12 dollar tool you can get

cheers brad clears that up can put a 3" band in at the narrowest point and reweld the centres in , as long as its 3mm mild etc, will reverse the bands as they have a sweet dish and hide the extra band on the inside, grinding welds off tommorow it is

it's painted already though so just offset it with wheels or red tints rofl

thumbs up from me super lightweight strong motor strong drivetrain, just please don't mount a huge intecooler out the front, will be a lancer chaser at trackday i bet, long as you find traction, power to weight wise would be pretty close to taking out top honours on here i would think

widened pursuit steels would look good, black over silver is a bit stark for my liking but if you offset that with wheels it should balance out simmons if you can find/afford/borrow them are another option, 15s or 16s i reckon for sizing dont know if 14s go over the brakes or are very common in that stud pcd, mad props either way

any boes down?! this weekend for a pissup? missed so many i'm kind of jealous and quite honestly a little emo! can supply some firewood a drum for the fire and a garbage disposal unit, sorry he doesn't eat glass, can't really supply venue as our neighbours are elderly as!! but funnily enough not deaf?!

guy at taupiri autostore runs a 305 chev in his on meth, but a lexus v8 Would suffice, its got a cage and room for 10inch wide slicks why not build a ferrari fucker

the vacuum sealing for curing bit has got me stumped short of borrowin a vacuum pump from the dairy factory and a few bin liners to fit that size stuff in then thought a powder coat oven would do the trick found this Richards Carbon fibre PagesHome made Carbon fibre pages, suzuki petrol tank, seat unit, mudguards, dash, headlamp and battery box. http://www.mci.i12.com/carbon/

ok so diy carbon fibre looking to go on a weight loss binge, i know its got to be baked but at what temp and for how long, also urban myth on carbon fibre bonnets no crumple zones so likely to go through your windscreen on impact true not true? want to do flares bonnet and boot lid fuel tank cover in the boot all interior trims fuel flap back of back seat possibly front wings and valance, make molds similar to making a surfboard then glass and use release agent to make the negatives, true not true, have lots of time looking for a spare tg body to cut up and take profiles off of

like the shape like the rims , old school skid comp at nats 09?

whats the legal issues with this 16x7 for the front swapped centre 16x9 for the rear swapped centre plus a 2"band, brads done it?

Side bare metal Front bare metal Passenger bare metal Ass bare metal Primer Booth Paint front Paint outside Windows in Rover in Rover tidied up Custom Superlites 16x9 Side shot super lites Back guard superlites

sweet man if you break down ill bring some wood and we can just push it into the back of the bedford , surely theres a bike with not tooo disimilar piston and rod combo with more meat, otherwise 2 stroke 10a and adaptor plate feasible? sleeper value high fast>/scary probably, otherwise i ve had a few outboards apart and they have a pretty sturdy rod and piston combo, 30hp yamahas come out as 3 cyclinders they wouldn't be far off, lacking verniers of course

http://img165.imageshack.us/slideshow/p ... 34znq.smil

since it died again shall we have another go i think i have a filter and bleeder assembly at dads, will ring him an find out if he hasn't turfed it, from memory theres an inline filter by the petrol pump by the fuel tank, thats probably full of water and being a petrol philter its probly full of crap also, if it ain't those wires its got to be fuel supply for sure, ie the filter bleeder does not allow flow back where as the petrol system after pumping grainy diesel has probly lost its seating at the diaphragm on the piazza pump and will be bleeding, we can bypass your glow plugs and run a switch or button on the dash so that cranking will=cranking none of that delay bullshit, you'll keep the cheap bitch if its running i'm sure, may have to investigate what that other solenoid on the injector pump is for as i'm sure that adjusts the pumps timing as the one on the back is the cut jase

gun blue = annealing heat up till red hot then cool in oil will make everthing less brittle and less susceptible to cracking via vibration, did it at tech, wikipedia has a mean explanation also

i would be real careful at this point, how much travel have you got left onto the back of your gearbox spline? was your driveshaft custom and did they weld it with the bearings in ie i had grease nipples put on all my universal bearings, check your differential see if it does it on stands without the wheels on as it will take heaps of inertia away that could be magnifying a lash problem, are your wheels all balanced no tire gunk in there or nething pretty much check check check is all i can suggest if its done it from the start i'm thinking it hasn't been set up bang on from the start or it was an existing problem from the start ie dodgee diff (not a locker is it with a shit load of weld on one side) i've broken a driveshaft universal at a hundred k it ain't pretty ripd a hole in the floor and absolutely shat myself gearbox x member broke on decellaration dropd box down 3" bound driveshaft which ripped the universal bearings out then further bound the gearbox and ripped the ass off the gb then it whipped up and through the floor thankfully it locked the diff up at this point and i wasn't carrying passengers as it coulda ended real bad, driveshaft loops from now on

or get it zinc/nickle plated not that expensive and tough as and the don't miss any spots, zinc is all good or zinc nickle ie crome if you're poor (most of the money is in the polishing after the dips so you could ask to do that yourself)

For One How Much Tension is on your two link bars? enough to pull everything forward and bind the driveshaft? leafs don't work in straight lines they swing upwards in an arc and your rear leaf link backwards and forwards to accomodate the spring flattening, your bars will be restricting the process from happening as the bar is a fixed length working in a system that uses varying distances. basically as you brake all the weight shifts forward haunches the back of the car up which moves your diff forward but if your bars are at the end of there travel they will cause the hop, basically like topping your shocks out in a really low car clear lifts the wheels off the ground, i suggest remove them see if is happens, replace and fine tune them to suit hope this helps bro

easiest way bro take the tappet cover off and have a look, i'll bet my dogs left testicle your stem seals are shagged or missing or sitting next to the valve stem, theres a few types i've come across the old external wire jobbies often break the wire and work their way back up the stem, the newer ones have the wire vulcanised into them but have seen them crack the top off, compressed air trick sounds the goes, personally i removed the head skimmed it dipped it rellappd the valves new mhg and popped it back on with some new head bolts and as long as your rings are good you get a bit more pep, better cooling and better combustion

steels the goes for sure satin black with red rims and white walls? drab olive ie army green with gunmetal rims ands a white roof?

put your head under the dash theres adjustment at the end of the cable there