Mk1Mad

Some progress there but take your time mate. That shoe definitely is missing any pad! Parts like brake shoes and cylinders end up quite cheap in the long run so if you need new ones I would skimp and save for them. Re. your brake spring fitting issues. I've just bought a new car set for my car: These are the springs you need for the front (assuming twin leading show drum brakes) These are the springs you need for the rear brakes: You will note the front springs have a funny hook on one end. When you disassemble the brakes (assuming they are still together) note how this little bend hooks into the shoe. If they are already apart I might be able to whip my wheel off to get you a picture. Re. Taking the wings off. The front wings (with the headlight in them) are attached by spot welding down the exterior seam against the A pillar (There is a metal cover over the seam you will have to prise off first). They are also spot welded to the inner wing down the drip rail, and again are spot welded to the front panel via a seam inside the wing (below the light). Taking them off without damaging them is quite a job but working carefully with a thin cutting disc and spot weld drill and you should be able to get them. Anyway. Hopefully the cleandown of the dizzy does the trick. I can't quite make out that picture of the dizzy so am unsure what you have done there. Nick

So. Been a long time since an update but as the exchange rate gets better and better, as I am about to start a new job, and as summer approaches I have decided to get the Mini all on tune ready for some summer running. So, que order of parts. Sorry about the bulk pictures but this thread is also a diary of my build. It was useful when I sold my Escort to be able to pass on the URL to its build. First plan is to rebuild the head. Well actually rebuild another head I have that already has hardened seats fitted. Head is at Headmaster, has been crack tested and came up fine so I will drop new valves and guides in tomorrow. I have just kept standard valve sizes as being an 850, if chasing performance then its cheaper and easier to just fit a complete 998cc engine instead. I like the 850 and pudding stirer gearbox so its staying. New Inlet Valves (Forgot a Picture of the Exhaust Valves) New Cast Iron Valve Guides All new studs, nuts and washers etc for the head. Excuse the pictures, this is just for my record too. Heater, Exhaust, Thermostat Nuts and Bolts Etc (All Stainless Steel Studs) New Thermostat Housing Also got a bunch of seals and gaskets And hoses And a new sump plug and oil filler cap Along with rebuilding the head, I have also decided to rebuild the carb as well so added a rebuild kit to the list And last but not least, I ordered a brand new electronic dizzy. At $140 shipped to NZ the was no real point in refurbishing the existing one. Time will tell how good the electronic gismos are! \ So all in all, the coming weeks should hopefully see the engine back together. I am also probably replacing the waterpump while I am at it and maybe having the original rad recored just for the sake of putting the original back in there. I also added a few bits like a new indicator switch, new indicator cowling, drum brake shoe springs. hinge pin repair kit and SS hinge bolt replacement kit to the mix. Will keep me busy thats for sure.

Sweet. There isn't much electrical stuff within the dizzy body that could be causing that tho. Maybe a bad earth (not sure if the dizzy needs to be earthed, probably does). Pretty much its filled with springs and weights. I would look at all connections, engine earths, battery earth etc. Failing that, stick a 9V battery to your tongue and see what happens. Cloth wires caused me problems with the cloth falling off and the wire being black (looks like an earth) underneath

Your problem will be something really simple that once sorted you'll be smacking your head that you didn't think of that one. I once spent a few days with the same problem and all I needed to do was run some emery paper between the contact points and it fired straight up! (Give that a go, even if they are brand new). Firstly, take the dizzy cap off and try and start it. If you have a spark at the contact points then you know if is either cap, leads or sparkplugs. If not, then you have a problem elsewhere. Also, you need to check the timing of the dizzy. The position it is in in the pictures looks a little strange. Usually the vaccum advance unit is pointing in about the 2'oclock position when timed correctly. Put the engine to TDC on No.1 cylinder (screwdriver down the sparkplug hole), have the timing marks on the flywheel (little cover above the clutch, you need a mirror to see the marks) lining up, and the dizzy rotor should be pointing to fire to cylinder No.1. Anyway, let us know if you have a spark between the points first. We can work from here. I wouldn't go and buy new leads/cap etc yet as you probably wont need them! Nick

Looking good man. Great to have another Mini on here! Check out my build thread if you want to see what rust is really like. Just be warned that once you start digging you won't stop! Look like its def had a reshell into a later body, will make life easier finding parts anywho. I've just bought a new 25D dizzy from www.simonbbc.com. Lots pretty fancy and should have it fitted in a few weeks so will let you know how it goes. Cost $140NZ all up shipped in a week. Nick

Almost a year without an update. Has been my daily for the past year, reliable and cheap on gas. Almost warrent time so bought some bits to add to it including: Bulkhead Sound Blanket Door Hinge Bush and Pin Kit Tool for Above Badge Clips 3 x Window Catches 2 x Door Stay Straps Spare Bypass Hose Boring update but hey... Will fit this weekend. Also have listed Escort for sale as may have to move house in a month or so and it may be a bit of a hinderance.. Get in touch if interested @ n.axten@gmail. Nick

Yeah, everyone else wanted around the $200 each mark, or said there were none in the country. I contacted Yokohama NZ directly and they had just received a new shipment. My rims are 5.5 so 6 should be sweet. Was from Tony's down on the waterfront. Nick

I got 175/50 Yokohama A539's at about $150 each fitted from Tony's. Had to get a quote from a place in Upper Hutt and then get them to beat it.. Was a bit of work but was happy with that price. Pretty hard to find any decent 175/50's for less that about $120 fitted. Nick

OK, update time. I've been pretty slack over the last 6 months. Trying to get some time back into it in between skiing and work... I have also moved house and unfortunately now have a smaller garage. Bit of a squish now but we make do with what we have. Bought tyres today. 175/50r13 Yokohamas for $610 fitted. Cheap as chips. Removed, degreased, and painted axle including rebuilding brakes. Underseal is all flakey and is burnt off where I have welded the floor. Redoing it. Nolathane rear bush sleeves were rusted to spring shackles. Had to cut off. Need new sleeves now. Gotta clean up and paint these bits. More stuff on the list but need to put some decent time into it now to get stuff done before christmas. Need to make lowering blocks (will have leaves reset after first WOF), apply underseal so on and so forth..

Works for wheels, engine mounts, gearbox mounts, fuel tanks, your mum, wings, batteries... Miramar styles aye Chris..

You won't have a fuel gauge if you stick foam in it. If your going to change it just put a fuel cell in.

Having no personal experience in conversions I can't say much but have done a lot of reading on various conversions etc, dreaming of having a workshop and time to complete one. 4AGE Conversion Best site to read through I've ever found on this - http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/phil.bradshaw/Index.htm Seams best to get AE86 engine and box complete with ecu and intake manifold to save time and $$. Zetec & Duratec Conversion Highest quality off the shelf parts - http://www.retroford.co.uk/ - Great to copy and see how its done. I would go Zetec on sidedrafts or injection if you can figure it with Megasquirt. Don't have any experience with Jap stuff but im sure some of that other stuff would be good. My 2c.

Big Thanks to Gaz and Low'N'Slow for the tips and painting. 4 Wheels in Silver and Clearcoat. Will wait for a couple of weeks to harden before fitting tyres.

Yeah, worth blasting. Painting is a little tricky as its pretty hard to get an even coat over the whole rim in all the curves Will get pick of mine as finished in silver up later this week. If I had more time I would have got them blasted at one place then dropped to the powercoater instead. Time is money tho so that is why I painted.

Looks mean. I just had 4 x steels blasted and two-pack primed for $120 all up. Paint was about $50. Powercoat will be $200 - $300 range for the set of 4. Nick

Probably $150. Its got some rips on the rear and needs a good clean up. Comfy as tho. On the plus side tho it already has rails attached. Will be on trademe tonight.

OK Cheers to Gaz for dropping off the wheels for sandblasting. They are now in 2K primers ready for final colour. Bought my paint supplies, 4L Ermine White 1L Silver for Wheels Sample of colours Also got an extra wheel which i will get blasted too. Not sure what it is off but it has more dish. Fitted them up too see what they look like. Front 5.5J Lotus Wheel in Primer with Chrome Hubbie (Not fitted properly in pic) Rear Extra dish wheel needing blasting Also, got some chrome 1/4 bumpers and an old seat. Need to get the bumpers re-chromed, gonna sell the seat probably. Anyway, need tyres now. Looking at Yokohama A539's. Can do 185,60x13. Need to find someone with a 175,50x13 to see what that looks like too. (I might steal one of your tyres Chris...) Cash Injection = Motovation...

Just had confirmation from Francis Pointon, wheels are off his old Mk1 Twin Cam which he raced in various hillclimbs and circuit races around the lower North Island. Car is now owned by Bill Williams in Auckland, plate No. DT8038. Bill also owns and races a Lotus Cortina.

Not too much progress on her of late as Ive been silly busy at work... Anyway, bought some genuine 13 x 5.5J Lotus Twin Cam wheels. Will hopefully get them blasted and painted this week then sort some tyres. Anyway, I was cleaning them up am found some writing on them. This said F Pointon, Twin Cam Escort, Masterton. I have now emailed said Francis Pointon who is still in Masterton for any further info on the wheels (http://www.pointoncollection.co.nz/). They also look to have been raced at some point as they are marked for postion on the car. Pic: Current State. Got New Windscreen and Windscreen Rubbers. Took out Engine and Box to do the bay. Wheels Anyway, time to sell the hotwires and get some tyres for the lotus wheels. Also fingers crossed I have a contact for some chrome quarter bumpers. Bed, Nick

Once you get the holes cut the size you want get UJ to turn up a flare. Wouldn't be much work, just two halves.

Expensive, but you can get them.... http://www.tradetools.co.nz/dbsweb/TTLWLCCL.pgm?VRID=1fy1X6gp0BTTvmbae4TwA6MGz6134701&MODE=*LIST&CLASS=NNN Nick

Dragged this up. Had the mini in Wellington for about 9 months now in storage but have decided that its not worth just keeping it in the shed, its there to be used. So, its now my daily... So, got a new Rego and WOF. Also two new tyres. Then I looked at our exchange rate and throught, sweet, time to get some detail bits. So, in the mail from the UK (or already here) are: Voltage Stabilzer (for fuel guage) Rocker Cover Tag Key Barrel Set New Horn Centre New Boot Handle New Bonnet Badge Surround New Bonnet Badge + a bunch of rubber parts and little bits and pieces.. And still to be ordered and on the wish list: New Indicator Switch New Column Cowl New Draught Excluders New Door Stays Refurb for the Steering Wheel Rebuilt Head Smith Temp Gauge Will slowly spend a little bit each month while getting a few bits for the Escort too... Wedding season coming up so an expensive March for me travelling all over the place.

Yeah, good to see another mini on here. Some tasteful period modification are always a goer. Have a look into MiniSpares stuff right now, a pretty good exchange rate makes it much more bearable.

Yo More of an update. I have order some escort window seals from MevSpares in the UK. Great service so far. Will let you all know what they are like when I get them. Anyway, just stumbled upon this place: http://www.spectrumrubber.com.au/index.html Will email for some prices to see how they compare to all the others. Someone on here bought stuff from East Kent Trim Supplies. Any feedback on their quality??

Sweet. Yeah, its out the back on the Mahoe Street side. Yeah, I grew up in the wood but went to highlands and boys high instead on Ing high. Check out that shell, not sure if is still there or if its for sale. All the best with the project, I completed my mini over three years of uni holidays while also working fulltime. Keep at it and youll get it done. Who you getting it certed by? Figure Steve Hildred is the only one in the Naki.