Raizer

I looked into it before I replaced the lifters on my old van, from the info I could find online you would need to change the whole head, the oil feeds are different sizes/in different places and the cams are different, don't think the solid tappet gear even bolts in place of the hydraulic set up. Have you considered upgrading to a 2zz or Pinto at all?

L300 heads I've seen have old school adjustable rockers instead of lifters.

Aren't they pretty much a Toyota 2SZ engine with a turbo fitted?

No ice cream until you finish your marshmallows young lady!

That big screw is idle, the small screw on the side to the left of the idle screw is the idle mixture adjustment. You tune it by changing the jets, buy in bulk cheap from AliExpress. Start rich and work your way down in size, I'm not sure where to start looking size wise though. Needle height adjusts the progression of fueling. The vacuum port opens the fuel tap on a scooter, the little port is indeed where oil is pumped in on a self mix.

I may also make it to this.

Are they not just the generic Lucas inertia starter found in just about every British car of the era? My overly high compression Escort used to kill them all the time and since I was working at a wreckers I used to just grab another from the pile, Vauxhall, Morris, Leyland, Ford, Rover etc all went straight in and worked fine. Only difference I ever found was Ford was 3 bolt mount and the others were 2.

too many strokes! What you really need is one of those 90cc 2stokes from a kids quad (Polarus or Chinese).

Some epic work going into it, but at what point does it stop being a Chrysler and start being a Joshbuilt custom?

BNT should be able to do both the disk and bearing cheaply.

That looks right to me, 190mm with 23t 1" spline centre. You only need the Hillman disk, you still use the Ford pressure plate and throwout bearing. If you can find one a stock auto Escort driveshaft and xmember is meant to work with the T9, from memory the xmember gets fitted backwards and possibly needs the holes slotted a touch.

Mono cock.

Lots of videos on YT of them like this (and MUCH worse), normally water seals gone/rotor equiv of a BHG. J-Port time

Little update for anyone interested in the life of a boring van haha Since I've had it the HiAce had been using a touch of oil, think it was close to 2l since January, some can be easily explained by the cam cover gasket/grey goo leaking down the back of the head but it was deff getting a bit of blowby or similar as it was using noticeably more climbing hills/towing heavy loads. Anyway I did the first service since I've owned it last week (it had been serviced less than 1000k before I got it), drained something really thin feeling (5w30 maybe?) and filled it with good old Delo 400 15w40. We then did 1350+ k on it over the last week including some pretty decent hills inc overtaking everyone on the way up the Kaimais haha, hasn't gone down on the dip stick at all so thats a win in my book. Did a trip up to Auckland and back last weekend, not trying to be fuel effeciant at all -see comment about Kaimais haha. managed 1228.6k on 140.25l of diesel which gives 11.41L/100k or 24.75MPG for Igor, don't think that's too bad for a box on wheels right? And with the oversize tyres that mileage is bang on, no 5k slow speedo here! Just managed a clean sheet VTNZ WOF today too FTW. And since pic-less updates suck... Need to work on making a rack for the line trimmer and a shelf over the mower engines to try organize it a bit nicer! It just won't leave! Street sweeper guy threatened to send the council parking people round if I didn't get it off the road (he'd hit it 3 times with the sweeper truck by that point hahaha) so now every time I open the curtains I'm reminded why I will never buy another Mitsubishi... /Ling post.

Lost count of drill bits used. Wasn't hard steel, but it work hardened almost instantly when drilling.

Use a Hillman Hunter clutch plate with xflow flywheel and pressure plate. Stock clutch cable, Cortina speedo cable.

Will go buy some new decent Eva cut bits in the morning and give drilling another try. There's no way I could have got the others tighter, seriously I was bouncing on the bar with all my weight to undo any of the front nuts! Brute force while it didn't work out/turned the nut to mush was damn satisfying after pulling the wheel/hub/caliper off and coping a face full of brake fluid!! Should have just bit the bullet and brought a couple new tyres rather than rotate them, then it would have been the shops problem haha. On a side note, 235/60 is way too big for a 6j rim imo, chews out the outer edges pretty bad.

Never used one, but I'm keen to try lol Worst case scenario ATM is I get someone to hit it with a gas axe/9" grinder and I'll chuck a couple of the Altezza's wheels on the front for the weekend.

Yeah I'm well past that stage, 13/16 fitted tight but it still could only engage a couple mm due to the taper of the recess and the nut just rounded off more. I'm not joking about how tight the front wheels were either, I split 2 21mm wheel sockets today getting the other nuts off off.

My wheels are meant to have this style nut Instead one wheel had these And with the taper of the holes a tube socket only engaged maybe 3mm, didn't help that all front nuts were super stupidly tight (I had to stand on a 4' power bar to get them to crack) I spent hours with a narrow cold chisel that just fitted between the wheel and stud, but the nut wouldn't split it just mushed up into the taper.

Had that thought earlier, I managed* to get the hub off complete with wheel and brake caliper, but it turns out to get to the back of the studs you have to unbolt the rotor from the hub and to get to the rotor bolts the wheel needs to come off. *I say managed as the grease cap from the hub was bigger than the centre hole of the wheel. My plan is/was to drill through the stud until its weak enough to snap off, but I've chewed through every drill bit I had on it already and barely made a hole in the stud. Tried drilling the nut, that seemed to go ok at first, bit of cold chiseling and it looks like there's fuck all nut left but it won't budge at all.

What steel are wheel studs, guessing something super hard? Some monkey used trailer wheel nuts on 1 of my vans front wheels and they're so deep in the wheel a socket only engaged half the nut, they managed to tighten them to the point I snapped a wheel socket undoing them FFS. Anyway I rounded off the last nut, have been trying to drill the stud but just keep either instantly dulling HSS bits or snapping them. Carbide bit the way to go? Heading to Auckland Saturday and would rather like to have 5 studs/nuts instead of 4 and a cold chiseled mess haha.

"SUNDAY 7TH MARCH" Fuck knows how hung over I'm going to be, but tentatively keen to come for a nosy, will likely get lost and end up in completely the wrong place though.

"With a standard tyre, the sidewall height is usually 82 percent of the nominal section width." https://www.tyre-shopper.co.uk/tyre-information/tyre-information-understanding-and-reading-a-tyre-size-and-load-index First result on Google lol