cute wee gem

Exhaust starts on the passenger side, exits on drivers. I'd be keen to hear what yours has cost, I never bothered to price one up personally as I like making stuff flexi 2.5" = 50 WG flexi = free Flanges = free 3m 2.5" tube = 100 2.5" mandrel bend "combo" = 115 Only thing I haven't got are hangers and a muffler/s, as I'm not sure what to use yet.

I've started buying all the bits to make an exhaust on the Gemini. But not 100% sure how I want to do it. Here's a sketch. What are your thoughts on flexi and muffler placement, and what type/brands of muffler/s I should use? Should I just have one flexi joint after the dump and WG or one for each? I'd prefer to just have one muffler at the very back, as there is bugger all room under the car due to lowness, so a glass pack/coby type would be the only option if I must have one in the center, but I can fit something larger at the rear. Would it be illegally loud with no mufflers at all? I'd also rather not be able to see a massive muffler at the back, and just have a 2.5" pipe dumping under the valance

Awesome thanks man, I'll double check around the steering shaft, the rest shouldn't be an issue.

Is there a rule for engine clearance to other parts/body of the car? Just asking because my sump is 3mm from the steering rack (although doesn't effect the steering at all) and the tappet cover is only about 4-5mm from the heater box, inlet manifold 3-4mm from brake booster etc.

Top mount water pump anyone?

Very cool, looked mint in its day! I like the fact you're keeping to its original 90's mods too.

They are expensive though, smaller pulleys are a lot cheaper.. I think this more what he was getting at? Interesting subject. I can't really comment, but I guess it depends on how fast an engine heats the water? Some tests using a coolant temp log and thermostat opening times should answer that. Things like turbo's may boil the water if it's moving too slow? Useless post really

According to the e-webs the Z142A is 87mm diameter, which is too fat. Z411 is 71mm, Z445 could be the go at 68mm or Z547 which is also 68mm but is 21mm longer. Seal is 3mm smaller than Z142A but should still be ok.

Probably half the problem, Piazza should be just Z142A. Wonder if it's any smaller. Could I just fit the smallest I can find, as long as the seal/thread are the correct size?

So the standard Piazza oil filter (RZ142A) hits the steering rack in the gem, so I found a random filter laying about (probably from a toyota?) which is heaps skinnier (Z411 I think it was) It screws in fine and the seal still fits on the housing ok, so will it be fine to use? I can't see why not, but figured I'd ask to make sure I'm not overlooking something.

Is it ok to have a surge tank mounted in the engine bay?

Could have flooded the shit out of it it somehow? Take plugs out and wind it over/blow out with compressed air and try starting it again.

Leads on the correct plug? Check with timing light to make sure. Generally you'd get the odd backfire or something even if something is way off

If you have spark and fuel, something is seriously wrong. How did you check? How I'd normally do it is just throw some petrol down the carb, if it starts then you'll have a problem at the carb or fuel pump. I'd blow out the jets etc with compressed air and take the fuel line off and hold your finger over the hose and crank it over, if it doesn't push your finger off and squirt fuel everywhere, then the pumps fucked. I'd check spark by holding the plugs against the engine, do all 4 to make sure. Back track through the leads to the dizzy to find the problem. You say the timing etc is all good, so if you've done both of those things and it still doesn't go, then your engine is completely fucked? Did you put the pushrods in when you put the new head on?

Can you just use ae86 stuff?

mx83 has a different setup. multi link instead of semi trailing arm (like x7) edit: the picture on that trademe auction is wrong, not mx83/jzx81, they have a coilover in the rear! these are x8 style

Yeah but couldn't you lose half a kg quite easily from machining it and still be quite safe? Took 2.2kg IIRC out of a Gemini FW once and that wasn't even getting sexual with it. Edit: and cost fuck all to do.

Not for half a kg

15-16kg according to google, but that's probably for v160 (2jz) Edit: Couldn't find anything for 1jz, but they didn't come with a W series anyway, or did they? R154 would be different again I guess.

I've got a CNC flywheel, quality wise it looks mint and have had it in for a year now with no issues, has had plenty of clutch kicks etc

Cressida has a 3 point diff mounting where as the Supra has 4. Definitely get the Supra head if you do go G series, big powered Cressidas tend to rip the diff from the subframe.

Stripped it down and re-did some panel work as I wasn't happy with my previous attempt. It's currently in guide coat and have re-painted the engine bay, with some added gold/blue pearl. I scratched the shit out of it where I've taken the dizzy/cas out a few times, but I might just find a sticker to put over the scratches Painted boot. It's not show quality, but a lot better than it was Installed fuel setup, using a trademe surge tank, NOS Bosch 070 (VL turbo pump) and ran a new 8mm fuel line to the front, using the standard line as a return. Still need to wire it up and change the lift pump from 6v to 12v Also pulled out the front subframe and replaced a bottom arm due to hitting a massive unavoidable rock @ 100k but pics are boring New clutch from Autoclutch, 2100lbs pressure plate with carbon kevlar disc Played around with the MS2 some (fixing my fuck ups) Started some wiring in the engine bay. The thermostat housing you see here is one I made out of scrap alloy and a couple of old housings (couldn't find a standard one due to being a Jap import, NZ new are all carby and have a completely different housing) Edit: Windscreen is fucked hence overspray

Awesome, no rush. Sweet thread idea too

You guys got them for JZ R154? or UZ if that'll work with a different thickness? Got a spare auto doing nothing/going to scrappy so the bellhousing could be useful

As usual, awesome work! I always look forward to your project updates. I noticed the blue bottle on your mig, are you doing the alloy with it?