mk5corty

go the supercharged pinto.

exhaust wrap on manifold /\ pimpin.

Tis not hard to paint them, hardest bit will be masking off or making a template for the black bits. Anyways, get them sandblasted or spend some time with a wire wheel on a grinder or drill and some 220 grit. When you have done that hit it with 320 grit to remove the deeper 220 grit scratches and bung some filler primer down, can use out of a can if you dont have the equipment, lay a few coats wet coats dont worry about runs your sanding it anyway, leave overnight then get out the 600 grit and sand the primer smooth, remove any runs with 320 then 600 grit. Find a silver you like- make sure its the same type (lacquer or enamel) spray that down several wet coatsuntil its uniformly silver, dont worry about coating the black areas, if you get any runs leave it a few hours and get it with 600 grit. leave overnight and mask off teh black areas, preferably with painters tape but you shouldnt need it, then spray your black then leave afew hours and spray clear over it all, get any runs hit it with the old 600 and spray some more clear on. what i would buy- 1xduplicolour silver, 1x duplicolour black, 1xduplicolour clear and 1x lacquer filler primer, sandpaper(1x220 grit, 1x320 grit and 1x600 grit,1xroll masking tape) about $45-$50. Im not sure the price from painters tho.

you cunts have a drink for me on the 10th its my 18th eh.

Damn work-keeping me from finishing my car anyways theres a big pile o primerd stuff in the garage and heres the car how i drove it to my brothers to get it welded, was aws - turn so many heads etc more than any skyline. rawking/aws. Will prob take about 5 more days of work till complete but then will be sweet-no more rusty peeling doorjambs for me.

looking for info on the rover 3.5l v8, have tried basic googling-not much interesting looking for conversions (mk5 cortina) and how to get the power out of it.

Why not go long block crate? or chasing much more power in the future?, 4000 US would have got you a 350hp long block. Spose you can buy parts at time rather than have to blow 7k in one go.

If its stone gaurd then its a different story, have used the stuff on my sills also, was wondering why you would want to put underseal anywhere apart from undercar, its smelly and messy as fuck.

Or use that /\ up to you really, havent heard of that product.

I have used a whole lot of stuff i got cheap from repco and supercheap to flood my sills with lol, paint wont stick to it, not that i wanted it to. Properly applied paint should not crack, you can add flex additive which further increases its flex ability, i have a quarter panel that was mashed in by a useless parker and the only defect is the rub from the other car, the paint was fine. If you still believe a type of coating is necesary then use clear silicone, very flexible and not too hideous, underseal is soft and messy and ugly and i really doubt it gets much better than the mitre 10 stuff, unless you are using such things as black epoxy. Underseal is basically a tar, its a bitumen based compound.

shouldnt be any firewall chopping required, heard even clevos have been made to fit by modifying front grill, sides where the turrets are etc and firewall left intact. theres a supposedly good 302 efi on tardme, for 1600. Is air flow research still going, they used to make some of the best 302 heads in the world and they were in NZ. Had a look at the victor junior stuff?

whats a high stall for you 3krpm?not gonna go 347 stroker?

If its flexible then paint will have a hard time sticking to it. Underseal is supposed to not set hard so it doesnt chip off, but mine i can just pick off with my finernail, a very hard push with my finger with leave slight marks in it. i think what your tring to acheive would look quite bad sorry, i reckon you get some spray putty, its thicker than filler primer but thinner than bog and spray that around you bog/welded areas the prime and paint. As for the boot, hippos bedliner would make a durable boot finish or if you dont need so durable, $50 got me primer and some quite hard but not for polishing paint that i sprayed my boot interior with.

/\ murphy's law, tahts when ignition jams, key snaps lol, boom.

thats how i do mine lol /\ then bung the hose in it. Then fire up the compressor blow some air through.

aws, ford ftmfw.

are you member of cortinaforums.com, think it used to be kenet. or something? I keep a watch on it, dude called JRW has an essex turbo on triple webbers. heres the link for you http://cortinaforums.com/forum/index.php?topic=11344.0

damn those colour chips, hopefully the clearcoat changes it a bit... EDIT: bwahaha fixed by cleacoat.

anyways im in the prep for its new re spray, this time ill do it right and not compound metallics, DUH!. will post pics asap, finally fixed the big ass hole in the side, found some unhardened bog a useless auckland panelbeater layed down, removed that and found the metal underneath covered in surface rust. Big random crack running along front left quarter panel= rust undeneath bog and lots of bog. so far replaced 1lt of bog on the car lol. Spent best part of a day removing cheap black autothane that polished up nice but turns to shit over a couple of weeks, DONT BUY AUTOTHANE in lacquer anyways, its shit, real shit, bird crap stains it, and even after a few months i could still leave a fingernail indent in it. will post up pics asap, got 20L of thinners right here, bound to be illegal/fire danger.

maybe the ones at mitre 10 for like 30 or 40 bucks are cheapies then? i have gone through two of them in the last 6 months, pretty much did my whole rusty floorpan and various exterior bits,them little wires are fucken missiles when they come off tho, go straight through clothes, had a couple stuck in chest, hand etc.

i removed alot of it to get to the rust, it didnt seem to have served its purpose very well. Anyways didnt try dry ice but did use a heat gun and a scraper worked pretty decent.

can you get to the back of it? If not then dent puller or homemade dent puller, if the peice of the panel is an easy shape to make out of sheet steel then it may be easier to cut the damage out, use magnet clamps to hold the steel in from behind and tack weld and bog, however i donty think that suits you. Anyways get your hammer, panelbeating set if you have one if not then an ordinary hammer will suffice. Either hold something on the panel (dolly if you have one) or use your leg to brace the steel so the dent takes the force not the whole panel and use many lighter hits to try and get it as close to flat as possible, if you over hit it, goto the other side and bash it back, block sand with a low grit like 80 so you can see the low and high spots, fix them as best you can by bashing back and forth and then bog.

yuh, ruins bodyfiller aswell, means you have to fix all that again, i would only use where i cant use my DA and 40grit to strip with. also depends on the stripper i have used some stuff that seemed only to degrease lol and stain the paint, the crc stuff seems to get a good rep.

96 or 98 with valvemaster, whether or not the valvemaster actually does anything, meh.

only one i have heard of is schutz application guns for applying underbody surfacer etc