tortron

OK I'm coming Will be a yellow suzuki But which one Dr250, dr200, an125. So many options

Oh no way, golf was using a full dipstick between services on that, I assumed just cos real thin and burns up

Pm me your address, il dig out some likely ones and might have some suitable cases there

I have some 1930s ish ladies watch movements if you want a couple of them to play with. Had a quick look at them and balances look fine, so they should fire up with a deep clean None of them have winders. But can get a bag of those off ebay for cheap, or a bag of Russian watches, they sell them by the pound Very basic, no self winder or subdials. But if you haven't stripped a tiny watch before it's a good confidence builder You will just need a set of screwdrivers and some tweezers to start

Can't be too many parts on it that could fail a wof right Not in auckland, but in Te rapa hamilton, early time motors, I took my 48 commer there and they knew how to braze up and machine kingpins without sucking in through their teeth, and talked my ear off about babbitt bearings Would recommend, always classics outside

Literally worse than cast in the sand outside the back door Indian Morris parts Amazing

Ah OK, I was reading it as the rails and seat need to be proven to work as a system. Easy as then Yeah the nzkw welds don't inspire me lol

Oh OK, is that allowed, the way I was interpreting the fact sheet was that it would not be, Easy as if so il just bolt it back on

2 8mm bolts each side of the recaros, and same on the nissan rails, so no worries using 8mm all round there. Seat belt is on the seat rail Il cut off the hinge part, belt was on that big square nut, but il doubler plate it to the trans tunnel The rear mounting hole on that inside rail is inside of the seat belt nut. Assume that's close enough as practical to the end and I dont need to redrill

Should be able to adapt factory seat sliders/brackets to recaros with some box section Factory rails are flat with the base on one side, other side is vertical (mounting to the side of the seat) Existing brackets on the recaros will offset the box section just the right amount to match the existing seat mount holes Will use 50x50 on one side, other side will need 75x something I will use Allen head bolts, mounting through a single layer, (so a larger access hole on the other side of the rhs) Sounds legit to me, I don't think it would twist. Is 3mm wall thickness suitable Factory seat rail bolts just have a 7 on them, assume il need ones with 8. 8 on them

Took the whole rear end out of a w10 avenir I just trusted the 2 comments from 2008 and 2012 I could find on Trinidad nissan forums and didn't measure anything. Dunno if the beam, spring mounts etc are to the same dimensions, but I think I can take the hubs off and swap them, I just couldn't get the disk to come off at the wreckers to take just them. I may need to go back and get the brake bias valve? Maybe the hand brake cables. They have abs on them too, so that might also work with the wingroad abs Will see, looks like it will work

Shit nissans do it all, how good Funny, car looks 100% better in these photos than irl

And then with "I'm paying for a cert, I may as well" scope creep, I got a pair of recaro with almost matching fabric to the nissan stuff

Choo choo Pretty sure a 300,000km engine should handle a factory t25 no worries m9 Some guy in 2008 said that at least 30 wingroads had been converted to rear disks (in Japan) using the rear end of an avenir. Bluebird has rear disks, but I think passive rear steer as well, but I feel any 90s nissan bits will fit any 90s nissan. So rather than laying in the dirt at pickapart I will have a look at those (parts diagram says no, avenir is same set up as wingroad, will check the one at the wreckers is disk rear and if so see what i can get off it)

Kero and a rag and several hours of hate

Explains the runs

Don't worry, it only effects brain function

Yes! Ironically I want it cos that part of my roof is Rusty and fucked without having a sunroof in it

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact#note10 Relevant bit that I'm sure you have seen, says the bow would need cert If there's another one/you don't end up doing it I'm looking for one as well

General advice is a garage door spring will kill you

I found a slightly smaller silver case, that "should" fit this movement, about the same age. No one gives the correct measurements when measuring movements or cases, theres a whole french thing and 1/30'th of an inch (size of an english barley corn or some such worse than whitworth measurement system) to get your head around. Mainly the give the outer diameter of the case which is almost of no use, but i digress, its a couple mm smaller than a standard trench watch case, and the rolex is a couple mm smaller than a standard trench watch movement, so i think it will pass. There is a little meat that could be taken out of a case to really anger the watch purists by my vintage watch butchery I might hunt out a trench watch style dial as i prefer the look over the gold one, the offset of the seconds hand is slightly out so cant use one of my existing ones, tho i do have a bag of dials and i think theres a couple of the correct diameter with no seconds dial, that could be modified to have one. They are porcelain coated metal though and il have to think hard about how to drill a hole in that without ruining it, might troll ebay and see what comes up, theres hundreds of thousands of old watches on there. Hasnt arrived yet, coming from the Ukraine, where a lot of old watches and pocket watches ended up for some reason, i tried to get a vintage military leather strap from there twice and they never arrived, so im hoping this one does. so heres a circa 1920, french watch case. Very lovely decorations, and inscribed Marie, So i feel it was a gift from Marie to her husband, rather than a ladies watch case, but who knows with the french Im not in love with the detail on the crystal surround, id prefer it plain, so might polish it out, theres also a second hole below where the crown would go. This is interesting because it was a feature of pilots watches starting from 1917, you have to hold the button down before you can adjust the time (rather than just pull the crown out and twist). Kind of small for a pilots watch tho on that note, i have a period correct, hand made strap on its way Bund style so when your plane is on fire the heat doesnt burn the back of your watch into your arm. This one will go on Freds watch, i will see how it fits this new case when they arrive, but it may be a bit large for the smaller case. Theres several different "correct" styles, but i prefer something a bit fuller looking than a 12mm plain strap

my welder had an issue a couple years ago with the weld occasionally spitting like that, it kept getting worse and i was losing it thinking that im losing it. Then it wouldnt make a weld at all, the welding wire would jsut turn red and wet noodle out. In my case it was a bad wire off the transformer, happened to be right on the end of the coil where it joined so was able to unwrap a single coil and remove the offending bit. it was sort of like when you have a shitty earth with how it would splutter how is that related? it would do it way worse when a magnet was nearby. once fixed it would weld near one fine. I suspect its something to do with amperage or frequency compared to strength of the magnet

Fuel evaporates and leaves the oil behind in a nice thick varnish based goop, usually takes about 2 years of not running to reach that stage lol That explains the carb, usually blocks the petcock too

https://www.mr2oc.com/threads/what-are-the-small-air-ports-on-the-sc12-sc14-for.411335/ Sounds like to equalise the pressure