tortron

People swap them into dr125s for light flywheel race action. Basically a GN125 part

Il pull one out tonight to confirm size. All yours if suitable

My ute is running like that for 20 years, no surge tank.

Be cheaper to run the xjs with the price of diesel m8

I have at least a couple of these Scooter floats. I think the arm goes through the Cork on yours? Could swap that plastic one on. Or solder the arms together.

Datsun 1200 forum says from 76 Transmission Controlled Vacuum Advance System (TCVAS) disables spark advance except in Top Gear. Since this "retarded" spark timing reduces performance, to prevent cold-engine driving problems this system is bypassed in cold temperatures. This means vacuum advance works normally at cold temperatures. On the highway (in top gear) full power is always available. Assume it does a 90s version of that Best to bin it, I obviously want full clutch kicking power in all gears

What does a top switch/high gear switch do on a manual gearbox. Obs. it's activated when it's in top gear. Tell the ecu to change something like lean burn or timing?

Had a brief look at the wiring. If you have a Ga16 sentra and you get the correct Sr20 donor, you can just plug everything in. In my case that is very much no. Not sure if it's because ga15, but I think really its because of what I'm calling "big nissan" donor. Not a huge issue in my case, I expected as much, and even more so it doesn't really matter because I'm putting the haltec in it. I might check out some other SR nissans to see what their loom does, as it might be worth it to change a section of the loom to the correct type for in cabin plugs. First up was the alternator sub loom. Bluebird has the same plugs on the alternator and aircon pump, but car side is different. Unwrap the bluebird alternator loom section, as it is partially connected to the rest of the engine loom. Unpin the yellow with red stripe and the white wire from the grey 8 pin plug. Can now seperate the bluebird alt sub loom Ga15 alternator loom is already fully seperate, so just have to unclip it and attach it to the Sr20 alternator (80amp vs the ga's 70amp) The loom clip thing needs to be moved a little, so the wires aren't too strained Otherwise that's it The ga actually uses much heavier wiring for this too, also sr has 2 power feed wires coming off the alt. mildly interesting

Horse and cart rear end probably wouldn't notice

Thought I had blown it for a minute there, had a choice of 3 bald tyres so had to buy one, and then bought a bunch of nissan parts But just sold some broken suzuki 125 bits, so I think that's my sleeping on the ground in a bag fee sorted. Great success

So if it runs between/under the seat rails it's not energy absorbing? Like all of those show fuel lines, so must be front to back, The seat rails take up 95% of the width of the car, so it would have to be hard against the sill, or in the tunnel to be considered a rail

Was gona ask a question but I found the answer https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/entry-certification/reference-materials/eg-structural-damage-corrosion/under-body-damage-crushing-of-floor-pan-stiffening-members Wow, a little forklift damage doesn't seem so bad

Fuck what a mission to do this The strip of concrete in front of the shed is just deep enough to fit the crane on, so I had to push the car back and forth into position, then drag the crane sideways to get the engine in the right spot and angle. Doesnt go in (from the top) with box on. So pulled that oily mess off. Eventually got it into almost position only for the hoist to shit itself and not pump, so much dragging and levering the engine to try get it to line up with any of the mounts. Conked my forehead perfectly on the arm pin, so I beat the cylinder with the handle while calling its lineage into questio, and it started pumping again, and then it all fell into place nicely. To sum up Fuck oily cars, I'm so greasy now Fuck nissans Fuck hydraulics Fuck the haters, I have an Sr20 wingroad booooiiiiiii At least now I can push the car back onto the driveway and have lots of hoist room

Correct engine mount bracket on right vs bluebird one on left

I think it won't work for me, I will probably use an 18 spline box

This is the bracket I need to swap for the engine mount. There should be about 70mm centre to centre on those top end bolt holes, with the centre one being about 37mm taller. This bluebird one is wider and taller

I think that's for rwd Bluebird one is 215mm diam, 24 spline, 25.4mm spline diam Somethung with a 32a box would have 215mm diam, 18 spline, 20.5 spline diam Stock RWD SR20 clutches utilize a 240mm diameter, 24 spline clutch disc with a 25.6mm diameter sprung hub. I believe I wouldn't physically fit on the fwd flywheel

How many spline is the clutch? All fwd sr20s (not 4wd/det. 4wd is same, larger, diam as rwd) have same diam flywheel, but if I change boxes I'd need a different clutch and pressure plate

I took the rhs engine mount out of a h11 presea It is the correct type. However I will also need the bracket/plate it bolts to on the engine as the bluebird one is different again. Maybe someone has an Sr20 dead on their floor? Be easier to take it off an engine not in the car, bit of a pain at the wreckers as it slumps over when you pull the mount Basically I chose a bad donor, but it was a great car to drive till the wof ran out and there was nothing cheaper, so I might have to buy a blown facebork hustle engine for a few bits

And here it is in the car Even the bolts for the plasticpanels line up. Perfect

Here's the crossmember out of a p10 sr18 primera