tortron

Classic case of ramraiding your own house

The fur is good for seeing air pressure And also for finding in the dark

Yeah, I really wanted to keep the deck flat so I can use it for other things as well

http://www.betterservice.co.nz/FLIP-recessed-bike-mounts.php Worth more than the trailer tbh, after pricing up materials as my scrap pile is pretty low I just bought them instead

I think this is going to be a very useful trailer setup. 2 flip up wheel chocks, and plenty of tie down points, tread plate up the middle because I had just enough, and had run out of left over wood. I really want a wheel chock in the middle for transporting a single bike, particularly heavy bikes, but the frame does not allow one of those flip up ones. I might set a solid one up with some axle u bolts to go around the frame backbone. (there's a drawbar mounted one sort of visible there that I got cheap so may use that) but want it fairly easy to remove or otherwise not in the way. Have some steel angle to go round the edges, and if it ever dries out I will bedliner the deck

I use claybar and it goes hard

Honestly, not expecting to find this Entire brush end of the starter totally blown to bits. Cam chain had jumped off the crank at some point during the lock up, and had bound up the starter gear. The wire has sheared and looks like the starter made a 1/3 turn. I'm not sure how this could happen when the crank is stopped Something like, valve drops, engine locks, shock sends through the starter gear and reduction gear, somehow causing the starter to blow to bits, and the final stretch of the timing chain rotated the armature a bit. Crank seems fine tho, just some scuffing on the starter bendix gear where the cam chain jammed it, no damage to the casing where the reduction gear run. No glitter or gear teeth fell out of thr engine, have had both sides off to see what's up, plastic oil pump gear looks fine, nothing in the sump mesh either. And have turned over by hand in gear incase I could feel or hear anything without splitting the cases A Christmas miracle happened and I got new valves, guides, and a reamer in a couple weeks, so the dr125 head is back together and all installed, put a replacement starter in and it turns over fine. Exhaust and carb back on tomorrow and will see if there's any terrible noises.

Was going to fill that front bit in to make it angled, so layed heaps of bird shit on it it Need to Attach some spring latches/pins to hold the ramps in. Top coat with bright zinc, new pin for the tilt, waxoyl the frame, put deck on, also have some new wheel studs I may put in

Had to dig a hole underneath where I stashed this. So pulled it out and put it next to shed. Took ages for some stuff I bought for it to arrive, so it got the tangelo tree treatment. Ended up cutting the front bar off and replacing that, then I finished the ramp storage, and welded on some of the scaffold tiedowns

@mark105

Yes. Already like 10 thousand or something outrageous between Barry's shop in Takanini and that one

Rav4s don't have ute tax https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/toyota/rav4/listing/3884594246

Box didn't have a vss/speedo drive in it. I think they are cable drive on 92 p10s. It looks like all the other wreckers p10s got crushed today, so no luck there. I checked amayama, the electronic one is on thr diagram but not listed, but the mechanical pinion assembly came up about 10 models cross referenced, so I think it might actually be the electronic one listed. Anyways, pulled the ones I have out White one is from ga15 box. Appears to sit too deep, the wheel rubs on that black disk just above the gear rather than the gear. Purple one is from the u13 box, and it appears to be the correct depth and spun up when I turned the box over by hand. Will double check the teeth are meshing. Dunno how this will interact with the wingroad speedo, but it's fairly easy to fudge the signal to read how ever much higher or lower. Otherwise I can search for a later manual box that has the electronic speedo in it, or run an adaptor on a mechanical drive, or take it from somewhere else entirely. Internet said that an electronic drive wouldn't even fit in a mechanical drive box, so maybe it was electronic, or maybe they are full of shit

Got a gearbox out of p10 A 32a fm38 according to firewall So open diff and 3.8:1 final drive No pics, it's just a greasy old chunk of nissan. Will order a se-r gearbox mount now and see if the axle lengths are correct

This is rusting away on my driveway. Tried to start it 6 months ago and it bent a valve or pushrod or something. Turn it into a shed Bit long, off a b2000. Will probably need a trim to fit the 1st gen tray, which I will put a bolt in ladder rack front and back so this can fit

In Australia, is why you see a lot of cowl mounts in the magazines. Here is fine, I have only had one let go lol

That's why this is a thing Not allowed oil lines in the cabin

I ended up with this style Stewart Warner gauges in my truck cos needed so be black face, no chrome ring and no rgb led

Almost had engine buttoned up, had just filled with oil and set the valve clearances. Then the intake valve started sticking open So I took the head back off Guide snapped at the retainer. Hmmm Was probably damaged and waiting to ping off, the valve that was in it had lost its retainer end and dropped and bent. Lucky that it happened before the engine was running

I'm told raider has a 16mm piston pin, so I will delve deeper and see what might work

I picked up a piaggio fly 150 a while ago. Most of the front panels missing and someone had taken the carb, cutting the cables and all the wiring in the process (they have a tps on the carb, none of the sensors are needed to get it running but they do alter the timing in the cdi) Locks all busted as usual, they have all the lights and wiring for the factory immobiliser, but not fitted for nzdm (sell the cdi to European gypsies for ez theft) Anyways it sat in the parts shed waiting for a fly with no back end on it, and I got one last week Parts bike is dereg, missing the rear panels, matty B (and had China scooter rear plastics and seat to make it incognito, also had a car battery wired in under the seat) Original bike has live rego Spark plug was broken and its nearly an engine out job to get to the plug if you don't have the factory tool, might be why the parts were cut out of it. But got that one running too, plus I happen to have a 125cc engine in the shed Parts bike battery and fuse wiring is cut Original bike has all the carb sensor wiring and some of the front light wiring cut. Luckily most of it is cut 1mm away from the plug, leaving the plug for me to use? But I will need to wire in a new tps plug and headlight plugs. But I think that's better than swapping the looms over, there's a lot of clips Engine is a liberty, same as vespa lx150 and a few other things. I have pretty much everything to make 1 complete decent bike, I think I will paint it but I'm torn between a nice pearl or a roadkill shitheap look deserving of the name blowfly

Why no gut the whole thing and put one of these in it

Very interesting is the suzuki raider r150. Which has a 62mm piston stock and has endless tuning options, big pistons in every shape, conrods in every length, and crank pins in what ever offset you like. If I bore the gn/dr crank pin out from 28 to 30mm I would then have almost endless options, including "blank" topped pistons which are extra thick so you can mod them however you like. The con rods look like they are around the lt160 length +/- some mm either way depending what you want. Good for stroker build The only issue is I have not figured out how to get something from the Philippines sent here, but I think this is what I'm going to look into

Here's a 212cc build, using an lt160 rod, 7mm offset crankpin, Thailand piston I think I will weld up a crank and fit an lt160 conrod offset as much as is suitable, and run one of my flat Honda pistons. This will take it to 180ccish depending on how things fit. Compression ratio would be alright too, and lots of room for valves