tortron

Is this a tour du terrible sausage rolls?

You literally just cut the loom out of the nissan and connect the 12v power and earth's to the imp. Dead easy

Safety squints Batteries are pretty hardy, built for vibrations, so smacking them around a bit doesn't hurt them. I have one I have rolled down a hill and left sitting on its side till I went and got it. no acid even came out Watch those guys in Pakistan refurbish the plates, there's hardly anything to go wrong

I haven't had much luck with agm motorcycle batteries with mine. They are probably worse case scenario tho. Maybe 2/10 come back

I think there's also a 1098 somewhere here

I got a real deal 948 if you want to maintain current level of oil loss

Yeah but I was literally cruising at 75

Bumble bee damage report Fan obviously. Dunno why that let go, must have had some dick fingers at it before I got it and made a weak point. Almost everything was related to that, but otherwise minor. Crank seal behind that started leaking a little Lost a bolt on the rear fender/tyre hugger Exhaust baffles all came loose just south of cambridge Lost a bolt on the exhaust shield on the way down Breather gasket leaked the whole way Vac petcock started leaking intermittently, it stopped leaking once I put north island gas in it? Press in carb needle seat on ring also gave up and let fuel past Chrome plastic suzuki logo cover thing fell off the transmission cover on the way back, think I cracked it a little on a rock and it vibrated loose despite taping it on. The screws go in from the inside which is dumb Blue donor bike has given me all the replacement parts, just swap the carb and the rhs engine case (because the sight glass is burnt black as well) and then part out the remains

The bike so nice I bought it twice

baja nerf bar?

https://www.absboiler.co.nz/products-item/fin-tubing https://www.windsorengineering.co.nz/industrial/crosslecoils/finned-tube/

Inside the dinosaur?

just fly down and ride it back m8

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/antiques-collectables/automotive-transport/motorbikes/listing/3504366962

Can only buy e85 by the drum here now, NLA at pump

Doesnt work for Fred's watch due to barely having 180deg amplitude due to the escape design. Can get away with just timing it over a couple hours and check the gain/loss, and adjust it near enough for an old watch. More useful if you disassemble the ballance and need to get that part back in time/beat. Tho some of the stuff I do would cause someone who knows what they are doing to wince pretty bad

Here's the strap and a late 1920s watch with no subdial I'd consider it a shit kicker, nickel is all worn off, I dug out a close enough minute hand, I might blue it and refill the skeleton part to get it matching a bit better. Otherwise I quite like the patina. It's quite large as far as the trench watches I have go, likely because Post war and they started making them for style rather than emergency get every one a watch even if its a modified pocket or ladies fob. Americans tended to have the larger watches as well from what I can tell. Needs a crystal, il order a bunch in. Not my preferred style, but looks cool over my brown motorcycle jacket Really dig the strap backing, they look silly with just a 12mm strap imo, might make/get made a slightly scaled down one for the other ones

maybe some Singh grooves!

Yeah I have like 80gig of low quality amateur footage (probably of just my handlebars and speedo)

I don't think it's ever been off road? Said roads may only exist on paper

I wouldn't because that's how the bike arrived to me and I will just dingle hone and re ring it again Engine has to come out to clean the burnt oil out of the sight glass, and then il do the crankseal that's letting go while I'm there Etc Etc Etc

Take note of the zero fins on the cylinder, not even sideways ones, suzuki really dialed in the cooling requirement on this. 100mph tape and a big fresh can, and now air is blowing over the cylinder. Vibrates like a harley tho, Already checked and crank bearings are like $30 a side

I have a water/oil trap at the compressor, then a disposable filter at the gun after about 15m of hose and it has worked fine for the painting I have done. Better to have a condenser or a line of pipe going up and down the wall for everything to cool and drop out of the air. But I move mine around a lot, and the gun filters seem to last forever (I cut the last few open to see how they are doing) and I have never got a fish eye or water droplet come through the gun One day I will mount it outside the shed so it's not so noisy and run some air lines through the wall