corrupt

yeh just take a door lock barrel out, take it into a locksmith they get the key cut perfect via the code on the barrel, cost me 20-25 when i got mine done few years ago

yeh my mate just done this conversion, i think he managed to get it all bolting up as factory, as he cut/grafted the coldside housings etc. pulls pretty mean aswell.

i think i might swap the drums over with another diff i have and see if that helps. definately not front brakepads as just tried different set in today. im almost certain noise is coming from the rear. will probably do as you say and readjust the rears etc

When i brake, my car makes this gay rubbing noise which is pissing me off now. Its definately not the front brakes, as sounds coming from the rear, and front has had new pads with no change. I suspect its the LR drum/brake shoe and when i remove the drum the shoe looks all glazed. Usually what i do, is i give the shoe and the drum a quick sand and they use some brake clean shit on them. Ive done this a few times now, but it always ends up the same. What do you guys reckon i should do? edit , shoes were new a year ago, i dont rape them with handbrake skids either.

meh, was probably just an illusion as the front was way higher, was on the 13s though.

shit, you were just up the road from me eh, looks like you were at/close to tama autos, im past the gull station. rims look sex, but not really worth it if you dont wanna cut up the guards, as wont beable to drop it down as low etc.

my dads old one was lower in the rear. although it was twice as high in the front, boot full of tools for years stz.

ok so i gave her a quick respray, its pretty average, would definately not call it mint, especially the boot with its nasty sanding marks. either way, its better than what the paint was before hand, 1, because its got clear on it this time, 2, because old paint had few primer patches, different coloured bonnet (aussie one) and a few dents and scrapes needed fixing. was ok for a quick job over the long weekend borrowing someones garage, all up it cost me 200 for all the primer, paint, clear, sanding paper etc so i think it was well worth it. should come up a bit better with a cut/polish

wheels are gonna look mint!

dont quote me on anything but i seem to remember that undercarriage damage it only an issue if its a X amount of length or X% of the lenght of the chassis. meh, someone might know?

fibreglass ftw, used it on my front lip. only thing you gotta be careful with is making sure the fibreglass has good adhesion to the guard, one end on my lip started coming off because of that

got the fan+temp switch all on working mint!

how much did that set you back?

i think what ill do is set it at about 100 degrees, as manual says my thermostat starts to open at 88 and is fully open at 92 so im guessing thats a good running temperature for the engine, so just above that would be the go. good thing is, is this thing is pretty much fully adjustable so fuck, i may as well chuck it on and adjust it a bit till im satisfied with its operation.

poss. use ignition ballast resistor? they've got that huyge porcelain insulator/heatsink. would be choice. 6 running all the time = totally pointless dude, all you're doing is loading up your alternator constantly so you reckon its sweet to not have a fan going at all unless the coolant gets to a certain temp? whats the best temp, you said something about when thermostat starts to open?

ok, got my adjustable temperature switch and soldered it all up, now i gotta set it to switch at the right temp etc. it has two onboard relays to mess with, and i plan to have fan running at 6v always, then when it gets to a certain temp it switches to 12v. how do i go about dropping 12v down to 6v easily? can you just run a resistor? im guessing itll have to be some big hardcore one, not one of your usual teeny weeny ones, which shops are likely to have them?

oh yeh, understand now.

i dont fully understand what you mean by bleed more air in during a cold start? how is that done? dont you want less air during a cold start and more fuel until you get to a good running temp? explain

sweet, would also like to get the factory one working sweet aswell.

earth the wire on the block. if the gauge goes off the scale at the high end it's working choice. oh, pwn WILL TEST AFTER WORK!

already ordered the temp one so will be getting that one, although my temp gauge hasnt worked in years, either that or the engine is running really cold. i should really get a new sender unit for it sometime.

should chuck old engine back in celeste/get one cheap will sell for way more than just a rolling body.

If you are going injected the ECU should drive the fan or are you still thinking carbed? efi is still on the books, but will be a little while off, so need something until then. have ordered one of them jaycar kits, been a while since ive soldered bits on to a pcb, should be fun.

sweet, think ill be getting one of them jaycar kits. but just for comparison how much are the ones "of the shelf" at shops etc, might not be worth my time making up a kit only to save $10 etc

in the cortina atm, ive painted the door cards and pull handle things with black vinyl paint from supercheap, septone brand or whatever, after a year or so use the drivers pull handle has worn off inside the handle, and the door cards are stil mint.