crazy_rich

yeah, I managed to get some out of a really old mazda b1600, just had to trim the edges slightly, and rotate the inner lights round 180deg to clear the grille, now ive got to worry about surrounds. all good though.

those seats are oldschool to the core. Good shit.

mate, that things gona haul ass, bloody good stuff dude. What mods are you doing to the engine, as if you need any

bellamy and east also do them in ChCh. chur.

I know that with CAD plating, objects just been plated have to be baked afterwards to stop hydrogen embrittlement, not sure if chroming is the same. Personally i dont think it'd make shit all difference, ive seen old modgies etc last for absolutely ages and ive never heard of any wheels breaking or cracking.

Not true. both my capris are (were) 4 cylinders and have the larger stub axles (larger than an escort anyway). my haynes book states that pre facelift mk 1 had 5.31" dia coils and the facelift one had 5.27" coils. (both v6 or v4) both bigger than an escort. I'll pull the legs out of my 1600XL and measure the springs on that in the next week or so, but I've had a hub off and its the same size stub as my other one. a good site for refrence; http://www.tickfordportal.co.uk/capripower/bboard/

Do they really?

I cant believe that door repair dude, it honestly looks like some chump has just filled it with bog and spray bombed it one coat styles. its a pity its not really worth taking them through the courts or anything. are new doors easy to get?

A mate of mine was having a barstard of a time getting his old falcon back on the road, same problems Callum was mentioning, then he noticed the windows had been etched by a previous owner with the licence plate number. Made it much easier.

check straight from the source, http://www.por15.co.nz , they have application instructions etc on the site.

My mates LTD has flip up covers over the headlights, powered (through a linkage system) by a motor mounted behind the grille. Looks 100% badass.

Hey, cool car. loving the colour, Im seriously thinking about painting my car a similar shade of grey. good stuff.

Man that is one cool project, I'm looking forward to seeing it on the streets.

^ I'm fully gona go get one of them tomorrow. did it peel all the underseal off too? did you run it in a normal 5inch grinder or bigger?

use POR 15 http://www.por15.co.nz/. PA 10 is shit. Wire brush (or better, a 3M style stripper disk, I swear by those things) all the rust off, get the shitty glue residue off with turps and rough it up with sandpaper before painting, and yeh dont weld up the drain holes.[/url]

Only problem is that at least one of the holes will have to be plugged up, it is 100% illegal to take a welder to any form of SG cast type hub, so it'll have to be A plugged (tapered threaded pin), of which im not sure is legal on a hub either.

yeah, although the zephyr hubs fit my car I'm not using them, way too flimsy lookin. falcon hubs are fairly adaptable, I cant see any reason why they couldnt have the bearing diameters sleeved and recessed to fit a cortina.

]]yeah, i bought a complete capri parts car off him, real good guy, doesnt have any quad headlights though.

yeah, my main concern is how I've done the tunnel.(pics in project thread i think) although if i grind back the welds/seal it, it will look completely standard. my radiator supports have also been cut out and remade, but with thicker steel, so it might be ok. I'll give him a call next week. Btw Callum, that must have taken alot of confidence to chop that much out of your car. good stuff.

thats absolutely disgusting.

I'm starting to think i havent been talkin to my certifier enough, and im starting to doubt i'll pass without having to redo quite a few things now. gay. I also need to decide who im gona get to certify my car too. Don or Wayne. This thread opened my eyes. Cheers.

mk 2 zephyr hubs bolted straight onto my capri stubs. not too sure on differences to the cortina though, but id say they'll be worth a try.

I've seen that before so fucking funny. guy just bogs EVERYTHING %99.9999 of panel-beater's do the same thing, fuk i lol at people bogging sills.ITS STRUCTUAL,give it 3 months and it'l be cracked and falling out thats so true, when i bought my capri i was told it had a professional respray back in '97, all rust cut out, yet it was rusting everywhere, ground it all back, found a newspaper ad for the 1997 toyota corolla in the sill, another one in the front valace, more in the guards... gotta love it. how about the tv ad for nutech that used to play on "as seen on tv", showed how great it was at filling gaps. Dude smearing a whole tub of the shit on some basically non exsistant sills on a dirty old holden or something, awesome.

If the bearing is loose in the housing the only proper way to fix it is to machine it oversize and put a larger bearing in (will want to do both sides) or machine it out and scotch key a sleeve in, machined to the original diameter, loctiting or just bashing a bigger OD bearing in will not fix the problem properly or for the long term. Getting another diff housing will be the cheapest option. Either way, I'd double check to make sure you'v got the right bearing.

yeah, its looking more and more like flares are gona have to happen, just bolted a zephyr hub onto my strut and put that back in the front, and it sticks out of the guard about the same amount as the rear does. I'm not sure if my diff is as old as you say (70's) because its got an lsd sticker on it (dont think its got an lsd head, but i'll find out)