oldrx

$400 aus for cnc custom hubs. http://www.customgarage.com.au/products.html

Where did you get the intake manifold from dude?

Wear a resporator - they're not that dear

Thanks for links, i've been looking forever for a 48mm sleeve Are Monroe shocks decent?

Cheers for replies, i'm definately going to cut'n'shut/shorten the factory rx2 strut and run a aftermarket shock out of something else, e.g FB rx7, ae86, mr2 i think all fit but what im stuck on is when i go to shock seller with factory shock in hand i will need to say please give me 2 x Koni (or whatever) this diameter and approx X length At the moment all i have is the factory springs/shocks. I guess i will need tyres first to measure properly. Perhaps i could cut down one of the factory shocks to use as a dummy just to get a picture of the overall lenght i need. The last thing i want to do is guess wrong on shock length and shorten the strut to suit, add coilover sleeves and it not be low enough. Will have a geez through those other threads too

Im a bit confused how you actuall know how to pick a shock i.e. how do you actually measure how long a shock you need? Obviously i want to be super low, and have 14in wheels. I think i saw a thread on it somewhere on OS but cant find it now.

Any idea what the OD is of the shock and lenght? I think kp61 struts are the same OD as rx2 so might have same insert OD.

If you use a oil thermostat in conjuntion theres no reason it would over cool anything

Sweet, havent bought them yet just trying to find a good set up to buy or a good place to do the whole job http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 310688.htm These look pretty good

If i put a 51mm sleeve over my 47mm strut and just get it welded centralish is that gunna fly? Yeah nah?

You just know that 10c coin sized bit of surface rust is going to turn into a month long goose chase all over the car. That shit has a way of crawling around under paint. I think in the end you either pull the entire fucker apart and risk never getting around/affording to put it back together again or leave it/spray some shit down there and convince yourself its going to be ok.

Dont you have to overcoat that shit though?

Im wondering about just firing some Phosphoric acid at it

I took the back seats out of the mazda the other week to run a new fuel pump wire, and discovered a bit of surface rust which i'm cleaning up at the moment while doing that i saw there is a bit of surface rust inside the framing for the seat and other cunty areas that i would have to drill out the spot welds and practically take the car apart to get to. Plus im sure up in the sills etc there must be a bit of surface rust. In a few years i want to repait so maybe i will acid dip, not sure but until then i want to stop any rust getting worse. Has anyone found any good aerosol rust converters that are good for this kinda stuff? Theres this but its not a rust converter just a fish oil type product http://www.permanentpaintedcoatings.co. ... e_Oil.aspx And this but you need to top coat it which isnt really practical either http://www.spraystore.co.nz/brunox-rust ... -1424.html Any ideas?

How do they even measure that you are at certed height?

you should get a fucking medal for being 'too' low goddam pigs Is it certed?

very nice.... where did you get those sweet as shit seats from man? yahoo jp?

Can i use aluminium for locking and adjusting nuts on a home made coil over set up or do they have to be steel to be certable etc? Also 8mm wall thickness for the weldy ony sleeve bit will be heaps yeah nah? Cheers Nick

Ok so im wiring up 4 new relays (ignition cranking, ignition running, elec fan, fuel pump). Im using the original wiring to trigger the relays. Im just doing the ignition at the moment - and i've got my switching wires sorted. Q - to power the relays (12v from battery) do i have to run 4 seperate wires from the batt or can i run one big fuck off one and somehow tee it into the 4 relays? Q - 4 x earths - just stick them to the closest bare bit of body? Or run wires back to neg terminal on batt? Q - ive got a block for 4 inline fuses im going to wire in one for ea relay - for 40A relays - use 30A fuses?

Good for attaching fuel line?

I've got some in shed somewhere if you still need these? I work by airport so if you can pick up from there would be cool

I know Charlie Evans motorsport do them and have a good rep

Only up to page 9 but to me the best thing about that thread is the discussion around whether an attempt to restore it should be launched to reverse obscenities committed against it or are they indeed part of its history and themselves be preserved. And if it is 'restored' (im guessing it is by above post) does that make it restored or a replica? And should a split window be sacrificed to save what is basically 'a decklid ,part of a roof and maybe the doors'. In general i think some aspects of previous atrocities of all projects should be retained as they are as much a part of the cars story as your future butchering....

I'll try it with and without. I thought running without return would wear fuel pump out a lot faster though?

Put this q on ausrotary too but thought you chaps prob have an opinion? I want to set up a fuel return line on my Weber side draft (DCO). Im using the common holley fuel pressure regulator that isnt a return style im 99% sure. And a Carter pump (7psi 72 gal p/min from memory). NA 13b EP fwiw. Would it work if i simply bolt on the fitting off of a nikki onto the Weber (it all bolts up fine btw) and use the itake and return fittings off of that? I know it has a little one way valve in it with a flat spring that holds it closed under low pressure that acts kind of like a fpr. This could be easily removed if it was too much of a restriction, and the valves hole (larger brass hole in big pic) could also be drilled out bigger if needed. This is all after the holley fpr obviously. Am i on the right track here? This is the setup on Factory Nikki This is it disasembled This is it with valve and spring removed. Installed on Weber