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ProZac

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Everything posted by ProZac

  1. If its a rear drive one it could be, need a few bits from one for my chevette
  2. Hmmmmmm, so this machine has found its way back into my garage. Its not mine however, its just been given to a mate of mine, and im going to fix it up for him as he doesnt have the time or space. Was running really nicely when i sold it, it was then sold again, and the new owner decided to freeboost it... cue smashed piston ringlands. Luckily the head, crank and bores still look okay. Plan is to whip the motor out, strip it down (should be nice and clean still because it hasent been together long!), rehone the block, slap some new (2nd hand) pistons and rings in it, and hope for the best. Yeah, its been abused a bit and is generally pretty untidy, but it'll buff out!
  3. ProZac

    VR4 into EX

    The search feature is your friend. But... The 1200 crossmembers and mounts dont work, you need an ex 1600 crossmember and mounts, or a 2000 sigma crossmember and mounts. Using the sigma crossmember apparently puts the engine a bit further back aswell, which makes the already super tight water pipes and cam angle sensor placement a real firewall bashing issue. VR4 motors are a narrowblock, so the sigma gearbox will bolt to the back fine. Apparently L200's come with a wideblock gearbox, but i've got one and its definately narrowblock. Both are cable clutch, and the factory ex cable can be used fine. If you can, use an L200 box, as it will bring the shifter up in the right spot. The sigma boxes have the shifter a bit further back and it'll require a bit of cutting of the body to work. Failing either of those, you *could* use a factory 1600 ex lancer gearbox, but i dont think it would hold up very well. This brings up the driveshaft issue aswell, as the Sigma's and L200's have a larger output shaft, so you'll need the bigger front yoke put on your ex driveshaft. Length wise they should be about the same tho. Converting to hydro gets a bit tricky... You could try fitting starion hydro clutch bits into a narrow sigma gearbox... but not to sure on that, i'd just keep it cable, or use a whole starion engine and gearbox setup, so everything is wideblock. Not sure on the sigma diff bolting in. I tried once to do it, and it didnt look like it was going to work without some modification, but i've heard of other people doing it without a problem, cant give you any clear answer on that sorry. Good luck finding a solid axle sigma disc brake LSD tho! I've had a few in the past and not one has had an LSD in it.
  4. Dude, loving your car and the attention to detail, real inspiration there .
  5. Volks all the way i rekon, if the wats had a little more dish, they'd be the go, but thos meshies look awesome Car looks fantastic man. Heard about my old black one the other day. Guy i sold it to blow the motor while free-boosting... Its been sitting ever since. Should buy it back, hah.
  6. Not sure on the fitting, but those LSD's are just as rare as ex lancer LSD's, or starion LSD's... . Try an early 80's pajero, pretty sure they're the same as the l200's.
  7. Once again, fuel to the rescue, chur boe
  8. Yeah, need to set them, ticks like a bitch at the moment. Not on the car or rocker cover anywhere alas, and i cant remember what they're meant to be. Probably the same as for a 4g63 SOHC, but i cant remember those either... Hook a bruvvah up? Preferably hot settings, as i find cold setting tappets to just be unreliable.
  9. Just one annoying point, the rubber mounts from a 1600 lancer wont fit a 4g63, you need sigma/starion/l200/other rwd 4g63 rubber mounts. Most of the time these will come from the donor vehicle, but if your using a FWD 4g63, you wont have em. Or, you could just butcher it into position like this awesome example i used to own (no, i didnt do the conversion): How the hell they actually got that motor on the mounts, and the mailshaft bolted up i never quite figured out. Bonus was that the motor was so far forward, the sigma gearbox shifter didnt hit on anything inside, hah! Fuck that car went like stink tho, Sold it way to cheap because i didnt realise just how awesome it was, hah.
  10. We can get some speciality ones in at repco that should do the job, i can have a look on sunday if you havent sorted it by then? Shouldnt be expensive, should be able to get something top notch quality that even says 'start' on it . Redpaths are a good electrical supplier in chch, they've always been good to deal with. TWL deal in Hella parts if you want to go that way, repco do Narva/Projecta.
  11. Thanks Fuel, hooked it up and it fired right up, anyone want to buy an LA Lancer with 1600? hah.
  12. G'day. Im transferring a 1600 4g32 and 5 speed from an EX Lancer into an LA Lancer that originally had a 1200 4g36 with 4 speed. Everything has gone fine so far, easy as pie, cept that the EX runs a return line from the fuel pump back to the tank, whereas the LA does not. If i steal the pump from the original 4g36 that does not run a return line, is a likely to flood the carb on the 4g32 i've put in place? Or alternatively, can i just block off the return line from the pump that is on the 4g32 already? Worst comes to worst i suppose i can just swap the intake manifolds over, but id really prefer not to... Coz im lazy . Cheers all.
  13. ProZac

    5 speed for a 4g32

    Bolt to the motor, yes, but your shifter will be in the wrong place.
  14. Shit mans, its my b'day this sunday and ive got it off work... Sunday after?
  15. 4g63 SOHC heads sometimes have a bolt at the back on the exhaust side that is used as an oil feed on the FWD turbo models, use that if its there on your head.
  16. Holy shit, i'd completely forcotten you were going quad cam! You'll be hearing from me mr . P.S: I still work the sundays at Northwood, so come see me out there and we'll hook shit up.
  17. Yup, thats him. Yeah, im pretty sure he boosted it up a little to much, and i probably put something together wrong. I never had the block or head machined, so i'd say there could be a bit of warpage going on... Who knows though, could be all that sand i poured into it aswell...
  18. Yeah, it was mean, fucking mean to me!... gave me lots of problems and i was to n00b to figure it out. As far as i know it now sits with a blown headgasket... one of my mates is looking at buying it. I'll give him a hand to fix it up if he does, had adecent motor in it atleast, so it could be a half decent car i suppose.
  19. My black Sapporo was a 1980, the first year of the IRS turbo ones i think, and it was a 164A. Fuck i hated that car, gave me the heeby jeebies.
  20. Anyone have any idea on the dimensions of one of these bad boys? Specifically the width at the edge of the rocker covers and timing gear covers? Chur.
  21. From what i've figured, the *most likely* model to have a dash motor is the GSR V, from 85 onwards. This being said, i used to own an 85 GSR V, and it was 8 valve and 4 stud. If you see a GSR V, and its 5 stud, its more then likely a dash model, ive spied a few down here. I'm also sure i read a few years ago on the austaz board that there is the odd non-intercooled dash motor knocking around, one of the blokes on there building a race car with a 12 valve was telling me about it. They also came in some super rare japper cordias. The problem with the wonderful jap import Starion (apart from shitty leaking steering boxes), is that the trim levels mean pretty much dick all. Ive seen GSR 2's and 3's with and without intercoolers. Ive seen GSR 3's and 5's 10's with and without the dash engine and intercoolers. Ive seen cloth, vinyl and leather in all of them aswell... Dont even start on LSD's... They're all over the show. 5 stud here, 4 stud there... heh . Basically, consider eveything an option, if it was ticked at the factory, the car has it. NZ new models are usually far more consistant. Cept GSR 1's, they're just plain awesome, slimmed down racer ftw!
  22. Smash on a 21 or 22mm socket, then use a screwdriver to smash the nut out again. I dont know why paople think repco sell locknut keys. They dont. Stop asking. (atleast once a week).
  23. when installing/removing pistons put a small length of fuel or water hose over the big end studs, they have a nasty habit of marking the crank or bores otherwise. If your getting things honed and polished up again, not to much of a biggy, always do it for installation tho.
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