DJZ

I cut a small part of the lip off, the lip is still longer than the factory S13 ones. If I have to cut it down any more I'll probably weld a piece of flat bar on the bottom for reinforcement.

I remember seeing that rotary powered EF Civic on Trademe a few years ago.

I doubt there is anything you can come up with that hasn't been tried before. Get the right size turbo(s) or if the turbo(s) are too big use some N2O to help spool them, or use anti lag.

So I chopped the lip off one control arm, not really any better. Slotted the top hole in the strut to give the hub a bit more angle, not really any better. Had a look at my mates S13 and the ball joint is really close to the outside of the control and the end of the control arm is really thin. Something like this: On the S13 there is about maybe 10 - 12mm between the rotor and control arm with the wheels straight, might cut a bit more off mine and see what it looks like. Seeing as the R31 radius rods were too short I did a little research and came up with the idea to make something like this: So I bought some of these: Mounted them up to have a look and bolted to the top of the control arm they are on the wrong angle and point above the hole in the bush mount by maybe 15mm+. By the looks of it if I cut a hole in the control arm and slid the radius rods through the hole and then bolt them they'll come up in about the right place.

Hmm those first 3 look pretty dodgy

Where did you find a Starion like that lying around?

Sweet, thanks man. I'll try and talk to the certifier next week and see what he thinks is the best idea.

Mo' oil, mo' problems

Rear bowl is what I needed, it was one of the reasons for buying the RB20, it had the correct sump on it.

What's the deal with trying to do something like this? The new trans I'm fitting is too big to fit in between the ears so I'm probably going to have to remove them, is bolting a new mount through the tunnel okay? This isn't my car but similar to what I'm thinking: Remove these ears: Do something similar to this:

So I took the motor out again today and attached the gearbox to it, spent ages putting it back into the car which is not very easy. I put the timing belt on it properly while I was at it, I bought a power steering pump yesterday so I cleaned that up too. The trans doesn't fit very well, I'm probably going to have to chop off the ears that are inside the tunnel to make it fit. Anybody know what the rules are on either making new mounts and welding them to the tunnel or bolting through the tunnel for mounting the trans? This isn't my car but similar to what I'm thinking: Remove these ears: Do something similar to this:

Yeah, I thought about it. I'll try and find some mounts that are a bit lower and then see how it looks, it'll probably look worse. The motor might not be sitting quite straight 'cause it's got no gearbox on it and the turbo is loose on the manifold because the holes in the manifold are over 12mm and the holes/bolts in the turbo are 10s, it should be pretty close to where it's supposed to be.

Got the motor sitting in the bay tonight. Not much clearance here. Not much clearance here either. Too much clearance here. Clearance here for the wastegate looks okay.

Purely for my own interest what about Mikuni/Solex or OER carbs?

The only rotors I've been able to find that match that OD are some non turbo R34 rear rotors, the DBA catalogue is pretty useless for semi-odd stuff like Cimas and Glorias.

How about a picture of the brake pads? Or the subframe so we can see what it looks like?

I know most people think they should look like this: (note it's not even in Japan) But I'd be all over an S30 like this: (except for maybe a smaller wing on the back, or no wing) It looks like you've got a fairly solid base to start working from, what are you plans motor wise?

How about carbon fibre?

It should have a banjo fitting & enclosed nut on it. I got one from pick a part off some sort of 80's Euro, might have been a BMW. The other one I bought from NZ Performance which was a bit of a rip but he had them in stock. http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/store/bosch-fuel-pumps/banjo-kit/prod_717.html

Sweet man, they're in storage at the moment I'll try and pick them up tomorrow night maybe, I'll let you know once I've got them.

Hey, yeah sorry man, been flat out at work - I hardly ever get to leave the shop these days. I need to get the wheels over to you sometime as the wheels on my Skyline are borrowed and the guy wants them back soon.

Found the missing spring seat, I had doubled one of them up. Went to Cockrams today and ordered an oil filter stud, $35 is a bit of a rip but better than dicking around trying to find a second hand one. Installed the head today after I finished putting it back together then installed the cams. Started fitting the oil pump but it appears that I've misplaced the bolts for it, I'll try and find them tonight but I might just have to buy some new ones. Tried the turbo on the manifold with the rocker covers on, it's pretty close but I think it should clear, not too sure how the turbo water lines are supposed to run, the thread on the adaptors that came with them is too big to screw into the block, I'll have to track down some that work.

Put a donk on it Motor would be back together this weekend except for the fact that one of the valve spring seats is missing, not sure whether the guys that did the machine work have still got it or what. Hopefully I haven't doubled up on one of the valves, might pull them out again tomorrow to see.

Got the mounts and sump off this: Might not actually need the mounts from it, I've heard that R31 mounts might fit better, have to wait to get the motor back before I can actually see if the mounts work, the gearbox fits in the tunnel and if the turbo/manifold will clear the strut tower.

Got a little bit more done: Also got these bits, ARP heat stud kit, HKS oil cooler kit and some FD RX7 seats Should be getting my motor back either tomorrow or early next week.