fuel

You bought an oil pump sprocket for a DOHC engine that has a wider timing belt...

Try looking for one from a 91+ NZ-new Galant or Chariot 2.0 SOHC 8V. The 87-92 DOHC and 92+ SOHC 16V pulley is wider.

the angle cut gears are for 7 bolt engines I'm sure. The straight cut gears are what gives the 6-bolt its whine.

Evo 8 cams are 264 duration already. Perhaps you could find some of those for cheap and slap them in.

I think 10.8:1 instead of 10.5:1 isn't going to make much of a difference, it will mostly come down to the tune and the specifics of the fuel delivery. Engine/cylinder head temp, injector spray pattern, fuel and spark timing etc will all have more influence on knock/pinking than a 0.3 increase in CR.

oh whoops, I see you're after pressure plate bolts. They are fairly standard bolts and look like this:

Have you lost the bolts for sure, or you just don't know which is which? Crank pulley bolt looks like this: And flywheel bolts look like this: If you have lost them completely, you should be able to buy them from Mitsubishi. If getting second hand bolts, make sure you get the correct length flywheel bolts as they are different between auto and manual.

Long time no update etc. Now that I live in Canada I've been doing a bit of shopping from North American sellers, and will eventually send it all home to NZ in the future. Have bought: - Whiteline 26mm adjustable rear sway bar - Evo 8 AFM, Injectors, ECU, loom adapter and plug in tablet to update the fuel management side - HKS elbow + refurbished throttle body with new seals that has been bored out to 63mm - Evo 9 Bilstein front and rear struts - AMG grille and new Depo orange corner indicators

Pics don't work on your last update broseph. Says can't establish a secure connection to your site, regardless what browser I use. /maybe it's just me.

Whatever came of this?

You can also re-locate the thermostat housing to the front of the head

Yeah same block with different bore/stroke - valve clearances will be the same as a 4G32

it's basically just a 1200cc version of the 4G32 1600cc chain drive engine.

An EFI engine can usually estimate the altitude and compensate - some have on board sensors on the ECU and some just figure it out by the amount of air passing through the air flow meter.

How is it heavier in the rear than it is in the front? or did I read the chart wrong?

also, as I've said before - a SOHC 8V 4G63 especially with its stock bore/stroke & rod/stroke ratio doesn't lend for high revs. Combined with a heavy bottom end they are best for low/mid range torque and strength which comes in handy for turbo applications. I would look at finding a 4G64 block which has the 86.5mm bore, possibly bore it out to 87 or 87.5mm if you're daring (probably do-able with N/A but not for turbo), and then fit the 4G63 88mm crank instead of the 4G64 100mm crank, and then fit off the shelf long rods and potentially pistons with the wrist pin height increased. This would bring the bore/stroke almost square and most importantly the rod/stroke ratio is much much better than stock that revs better and has less harmonic vibration.

It's not even a three valve head he's using - the SOHC 8V 4G63 has the exhaust valves not symmetrical - so cylinders 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 are grouped together. The piston has both cut outs machined/cast to accommodate all cylinders. This is also why the Sirius DASH 3x2 12V engine has 4 valve reliefs on the pistons too.

paint looks too scratched to buff out - but it should be able to be repaired by a paintless dent repair company. I had two dents of various sizes fixed up to good success, but the paint wasn't as damaged as yours.

it looks like that plug has seen a combination of rich mixtures and lean mixtures. Ideally you want a nice tan uniform light powdery finish. Given that you've been changing your ECU parameters in that 1500km, I would clean up those plugs with a wire brush and put them back in and see what they are like in another 1000km or so.

It has SRS air bags doesn't it? so not too much can probably be done about the steering wheel.

ZOMG is that.... a Hyundai Trajet??

1997cc 4G63 is 85mm bore 4G64 is 86.5mm bore, 4G69 is 87mm bore The bigger bore engines are cast with more material around the cylinders to account for the larger bore size. You can't bore a 4G63 out to 4G69 size and expect the bore to hold together. The highest compression SOHC 8V 4G6x engine would be about 9:1 at the most - the early engines were quite conservative with their compression ratios. You will probably have better luck increasing the compression ratio by milling the head, but then you might run into valve clearance issues. There are tons of aftermarket issues for the DOHC 4G63s, and as you're finding out, barely anything for the SOHC engines. If you want to stick with the SOHC, be prepared to go custom made with many of the parts.

Is there any way you could fit the NZ-new type seat belts to the car before it goes in for the VIN process? How will they know that it only had the lap belts to begin with? My '80 Eterna has the fixed non-retracting belts but my old '82 Galant GT had the retracting belts in the C pillar. The two NZDM Sapporos I wrecked had the retracting belts too so I grabbed them along with the C pillar trim to eventually swap in. I pulled the original trim off my Eterna and found the C pillar anchor points are definitely there for the retracting belts, despite having the fixed belts mounted to the rear parcel tray.

There are differences in the water jackets on the timing belt side of the head, but the general consensus is that you can use the DOHC gasket on a SOHC head. Just make sure all water jackets are connected from block to head.

I can't say for certain when the naming system changed over, I'm thinking around '86/'87. Also who knows what 20-30+ year old Mitsubishi still has their original engine too.