Truenotch

That facebook group is terrible. Good for entertainment value though.

Another successful night tonight. I got the cylinder finished up - the ports could be better, but it’s a good starting point. Checked the ring gap and re-installed the cylinder. Then I threw the motor back on and oiled it up. Amazingly it fired on the second kick! My expansion chamber still needs love after the beating it took on the east cape, so I threw a standard exhaust on from the YB100 parts stash. Amazingly it fits! The only difference is the silencer is about 100mm longer than the fizzy unit. Threw the old style plate on to see how it looks: Love these 12 hole plates. Took it for a quick hoon up the road in the dark and it’s definitely seems like it’s running rich. I’ll play with jetting this weekend. I also remembered that I’d gutted all the wiring from the hand controls... which meant that I had no lights! No decent test ride tonight then... I spent some time figuring out which wires are supposed to go to the lights as the pre and post switch colours are different. I got there in the end and now have working tail light, brake lights and will have headlights as soon as I crimp a couple of connectors to join some wires. Does anyone know if the high beams are usually both filaments running together? I don’t have a dip switch anymore, so want it to be high beam all the time. My headlight is a 12v 25/25w. Can anyone see a reason why I shouldn’t power both 25w filaments together?

My parts turned up from the UK today. Time to get back into it. I’ve always had issues with clutch slip on this bike. They only have 2 friction plates so will never be great, but it also shouldn’t slip with every gear change... it’s not like it has a lot of power. I’d previously changed everything in the clutch system: plates, actuator rods, ball bearing, clutch arm, cable, adjuster, upgraded to fancy 2 stroke gearbox oil (when plates were new) None of those made an ounce of difference. There are some in depth tutorials online about how to upgrade to 3 plates, but that requires precise milling and I cbf. Then I remembered that the only thing I didn’t replace was the springs. So I decided to upgrade them to MX100 springs which are a bit heavier: Original on the left, MX100 on the right. Hopefully this will work. The new cylinder kit was pretty roughly cast. It makes me appreciate the quality of the Polini cylinder that I had before... but oh well. This is what all of the transfer ducts looked like - some had dags hanging from the walls too. They looked gross and restrictive, so I busted out the dremel for a bit of a tidy / open up. Heres the front inlet duct after a bit of roughing out: I did more shaping a s smoothing after this, but didn’t get any pics. I also opened up the exhaust port a bit inside the cylinder and gave all the ports a good chamfering. All going well I should be able to test run it in the next few days.

The answer is simple: Fit roll cage, get MSNZ Authority card, fit race harnesses and add as much camber as you need .

Welcome back! You can upload your photos straight to the forum now. See the little “click to choose files” button at the bottom of the text box. Cool cars btw, the E36 will be quick!

That's sweet! I was pretty confused when I offered the 100 motor up to my frame... The mounts are about 10mm wider than the FS1, so not easily fitted without taking some meat off the motor or frame mounts.... Not worth it yet...

Did the YB100 motor bolt straight up to your bike? I’ve bought one but the mounts are wider than the little 50. Already ditched the battery and added a Trail tech .

I’ve been ignoring this thing for a while, but am sick of it being in pieces in the shed. I needed to replace the piston after East Cape and decided to give it a quick hone beforehand.... but after a series of screwups that I’d rather not discuss, the lower skirt of the cylinder is now broken beyond repair. Note: cast doesn’t bend. After all that I decided that I wasn’t happy with the Chappy style cylinder anyway. The transfer ducts were too much bigger than the standard FS1 ducts which would have caused some strange flow. It used to rev better with the original cylinder anyway, so I’ve decided to go back to an FS1 style cylinder. The biggest available at the mo is 43mm/60cc, so that’s what I’ve ordered: But I didn’t want to throw all my good parts away, so decided to make the Polini carb fit up to the standard manifold. The standard carb fits a 20mm sleeve and the Polini hole is 24mm. Enter @Geophy who spun this up for me: Threw a couple of slices in one end so I could clamp over it. The clamp is chopped off an old carb. It works a treat! Carb goes here: It pokes out the side, but that’s life when you put a big carb on an FS1! I’ll have an air filter just above my brake pedal but i think there will be enough clearance. ... I might make some sort of cover to tidy it up later, but for now, it works. All this means I’ve got empty space above the engine again. I’m thinking if re-fitting the OG filter housing and using it to hold a tool kit and spare spark plugs. Now to wait for overnight parts from the UK!

Updated. Here's the facebook event link: https://www.facebook.com/events/603593986795469/ Burgerfuel are having a launch party for their new Smack and Cheese burger. There will be a DJ, prizes and giveaways on the night. No cruise, just meet at BF Rototuna at 7pm on Thursday May 23rd.

Sweet, I’ll make it happen.

Anyone keen for a meet this month? There's a new burger being launched and Burgerfuel Rototuna are going to host a bit of a party. @Archetype @64valiant @Geophy @Beaver @mark105 @Zeubin @Yowzer @SHGWAG etc.

Wow! It looks completely different to last night. Good work. So much extra storage space .

Yep, the bolt shop are terrible.

If there's interest, they'll be back.

The meets are on hold at the moment. So of course no one will turn up...

Yeah, that live axle life is tricky! I've been trying to come up with a nice solution for a while. I'm always worried that the air will catch the top of the diffuser panel and cause more harm than it's worth. Stiffer springs makes sense too. The more aero grip you generate, the less spring compliance you need (in theory). What rates are you running at the moment?

Do you have adjustable brake bias? If so, you might be able to dial out some of the unsettled braking in the rear. Pretty curious to see the effect of the diffuser though! Keep the updates coming.

I'm impressed that you've dropped a second off your lap time from the front splitter and ducting mods! I wouldn't have thought it would be worth the effort at 12kg... Nice work on all of your developments by the way. You're doing everything I've been thinking about for the last couple of years . Are you going to add side plates to the rear diffuser?

I reckon white /white or white engine bay with gunmetal steel tube.

@Testament runs R888's on his Fiat 124 and has done quite a few Ks on them. They'll blow away any road tyre in performance and will be fine for a weekend car. They can be a bit noisey, but otherwise are great.

IMO it will be a good idea to have a decent amount of droop in the FD. I did a shitload of R&D for my MX5 suspension mods last year and found that droop travel and good urethane bump stops are both key to good suspension for the road and track. MX5's are pretty limited in compression when slammed and I assume FD's are similar. Adding good bump stops and utilising droop travel are two tricks to maximise road holding ability. Your keeper springs will need be a bit open at full droop - just enough to allow for that extra 15mm of travel. You can buy keepers from 25mm up to 70+mm in length. I would recommend something like this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/suspension-braces/listing-2000560762.htm?rsqid=f6b126ce4b604edab9abc14c8ddcb068 40mm uncompressed length, 15mm compressed length, 3mm retainers. This would give you loads of room for adjustment and more than enough extra travel. You'll need to drop your spring perches by an extra 18mm from where they are now to account for the compressed spring and retainer, so they'll work well as long as you have that adjustment available.

Good stuff. You can get keepers in a few different lengths. Get some that give you as much travel as you need with a little left over (so the keepers are always slightly compressed). This will give you more flexibility for ride height changes in the future and also means you can adjust your ride height from the spring perch, instead of the lower body.

@Toddy415 - here's a simple guide from MCA suspension on how to gain droop travel with coilovers like yours: https://mcasuspension.com/technical-section/Ride-Height-Adjustment MCA don't talk about keeper springs because they don't run them in their race cars. Your springs will need to be captive for a cert, so you'll need to add a keeper spring with enough travel to allow for the extra droop (which also means dropping the spring perch a little further to account for the compressed length of the keeper).

This is only partially correct. The only reason to adjust the body instead of the perch is to keep the spring captive when making adjustments. It’s worth noting that doing this could also limit your bump (upwards) travel by causing the tyre to hit the wheel arch under full load (depending on total shock length etc). Adding shock length as required, lowering your spring perch and installing keeper springs should allow for lots of droop travel while still retaining enough bump travel. Droop travel is more important than compression travel in some situations like big bumps and drop offs.

Do you have a pic of the shocks? You should be able to adjust the body length and the spring perch if they’re the style I’m picturing.