Truenotch

Found a pic of your other one... Red one will be much more fun when finished.

It is now! Pity he grew, they were the coolest BOS overalls... dads had them in the shed since forever so probably are pretty exclusive now. So now that he doesn't fit them you are the only one with a pedobear suit...

Heh, the wheels don't look too bad in person... Gonna have to do some testing with them on forwards and backwards though. Bring some back with you tomorrow and I'll give you access to the jug and a gumboot to remove the centres... They're tricky to get out. The offset shouldn't be too bad on the +10's but we should flip the +25's for the rear... Will be good.

Love the brown gears... My little bro has sweet overalls too:

Thats a better way of looking at it... Having different shocks / springs for road / track would work fine. Would work out pretty costly if you had 2 sets of good shocks, but would be able to have 1 set of long stroke average KYB's for street and a set of good short stroke shocks for the slam setup. Yeh, just do it gaz . Figure out basic length of possible shocks and go from there, you might need to make spacers for the shorter shocks but thats normal.

Rice Vermecelli wang installation?

Was wondering who you were. Looks heaps better then last time I was there ... Take me for a skid next time I'm up that way?

Agree with Brock-lee here Gaz, having that much adjustment has the potential to be bad for your handling as well. If your shock is at full extension for the max height then slamming it by 50mm will mean the shock will droop a minimum of 50mm (plus extra droop for springs). If you're running a short stroke shock there won't be too much downwards travel available and when slammed the shock wont be working right cause it's already mid stroke. Talk to the Bilstein Motorsport / autolign / Stech in Auckland. They all have experience doing adjustable setups for escorts and know the maths behind what valving will probably suit your application, how much droop you need, what spring rates to use, how much "working stroke" there will be etc etc. Bilsteins are really good shocks - I'd recommend them - but they don't have adjustable valves. Better than an adj valve Koni and around the same price for a pair depending on what you choose.

Heh, the manifold is quite cool. I like how the length of the collector would give a straight flow into the turbo. Nice work man.

It's a pity about this eh, would never have had a clue about all the sealant and dodgey bits from his build threads... Seemed to do everything well when reading about it and the pics looked good. In the end though, it was cheap and fixing issues should have been expected man... Sure theres a lot of rough stuff there but no point cursing the previous owner etc... what has been done has been done. I've been going through a lot of the same sort've shit with the race car and it makes you feel like calling the old owner up to tell them their dickhead work is poo-house... but whats the point. Issue is found, you can sort it and move on from there. Thats what developing a car is like... Although spending $1200 to for a list of problems must be a bad feeling... but at least they're found now. Again same issues here - on a student "budget" - and every extra cost takes you closer bankruptcy.

Mumford link please: http://www.susprog.com/susptype.htm - heaps of different setups. But yeah, staying leaf with radius rod/s is a good idea.

Cool combo man. Throw 6 Blacktop 4age ITB's and an ECU at it . Pics for colour inspiration:

... Please develop that system... I'll have a set .

Wreckers charge $250 for the front diff. Can sometimes get a whole van for less money. I bought one from a wrecker and a whole van locally for a spare. You just have to look for the right trans codes to find the ratio's.

Rear rims look sweet, a set of -35's would go down a treat! Edit: Rhyme was accidental.

Previous owner had no idea what was in the car really, some of those specs are from previous owners and some are invented I think. It's a T series rear end with floating axle setup, parallel 4 link mounts etc... I should probably edit that first post. Hilux diff would be far too heavy .

What shocks did your old struts have in them? Looks like the big shaft bilsteins?

lol mean! This falls on the same weekend as a winter series round again... You guys should walk through the gates to say hi at testing.

Simon runs one in his ST140... it runs too cold.

hmm... my pad not available either. I'll get my pad sussing book out.

Fuck. Probably had my worst weekend at the track ever... Spent most of it doing something like this: For starters the throttle link bar (with spring clips + ball joints) kept falling off on decel at a certain RPM... Tried to qualify, but it fell off and I watched from the lime road. Race 1, thought I had fixed it... and it fell off just out of pit exit... Race 2, was going to start off the back of the grid. Had lock wired the link on and all looked mint... car felt good on the slicks during warm up.... then got to the hairpin and *POOOOO* lost power and ran on 3 cylinders... New issue? WTF! Vaccum pipe had fallen off the back of the quads.... again, watched from the middle. Started it up after being towed in and drove to my garage, seemed fine. then went to start it up again (after cable tying the vacuumm pipes on) and it idled ok... but give it some gas and *POO POO POO PUH POP Die* ... Kick wall... Checkover wiring etc, alternator wire has fallen out of the plug.... Looks to be the charge light wire. twist together with the other wire and start.... Alternator light comes on. Not charging. I know Link ECU's don't like having low voltage, so maybe it's been a problem for a while. The alternator light hadn't been coming on before start up (like it should, but I didn't notice) and the battery has been losing charge. I normally charge it before a race meet but didn't this time so the voltage may have finally got low enough to make it not run propperly. Heres hoping that fixing the alternator and repairing the wiring will set it right! Might unlock more power with the added spark.... It WILL be ready for round 2 on the 28th

Went out for testing today... and did 2 runs. After the first run I decided that it was unacceptably slow... so we set to find the problem. Suspected issues with the balance of the quads - checked it out and an adjustor bolt had fallen out. Put another one in and tried to balance them up. Cranked the idle down to nothing and closed all the valves.... Why is it still idling? On 1/2 cylinders... Spray brake cleaner at exhaust manifold *dies* . Theres the issue! The intake manifold was cracked nearly all the way around runner number one! ohh noe! Pulled off and went back to Palmy (again) to get it welded up by a friendly engineer (Tony McConarchy aka - Mr Hayabusa starlet)... He did it for free and said he was glad to help. Stoked. Picked up my slicks from mag and turb and went back to manfeild... by this time it's about 3pm. Damn - missed the last test session for Saloons. Poos. Fitted the manifold and quads, re-balanced and put the slicks on the car. Managed to get out for 3 laps while the "sponsor rides" were going on. Couldn't see shit cause of sun strike and didn't manage to get the tyres up to temp but the engine felt better. Still slower than it used to be but better. Upside is that it turns in now, so yay for that. Will fine tune the setup tomorrow. Only pic from the day: Edit: found another:

Whats the oil like? And do you do much out of town driving? The oil could just be really thin, then get past your rings and poo up the plugs. My bet would be to check for air leaks though. Does it only run shit when cold?

they are so mean.... Imagine doing a balance on them.