Truenotch

How positive is the outer? I doubt you'll be able to get actual longchamp ones but there are a few companies that spin up new alloy outer bands. It costs about $200 per band depending on where you go (have hear of some places doing outer bands for $120ish ea) which all adds up when you factor in the cost of the alloys. What width and offset are the ones you're looking at? If you get a band that's 1" wider than the standard outer it will make the offset more negative by 25mm and you'll have a wire rim. So a 7' with +25 offset will become an 8 with 0 offset. Edit, sorry. What jase said. if you widen by an inch offset will be 1/2' more negative.

This man speaks the truth........ and has good advice on welders as well.

Tig is a peaceful way to weld, it's like gas welding except with voltage. It's relaxed and tranquil compared to Arc and Mig. Mig is good for panel work cause it's fast and easy to do. You also put a lot less power straight into the metal so get less bowing of panels with Mig normally. Mig is noisey and sparkly as well - way more disco.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farmi ... 895208.htm Thats about as cheap as you'll get for an AC/DC but I don't know if I'd trust it. IMO better off buying from a real shop that has parts and service backup or getting a good brand second hand from an engineer/failed engineer.

If you want to weld alloy you need AC tig capability - all of those inverters look to be DC only. I'd strongly recommend not buying a new chinese machine from Trademe, unless the seller can supply parts and warranty. You might end up spending on a tig only for a circuit board to blow in 6 months, leaving you up shit creek. Most AC/DC tig units start around the $2g mark for a decent one. That gets you everything you need to get started apart from Argon - they normally come with an arc handpiece as well. Also for Aluminium you'll want around 200A IMO, so that you can do thicker stuff like pleniums and big alloy brackets.

Got dipstick? 4age's take about 3.8L of oil. Not sure how much a C160 trans takes.

I was taking the piss. I swear it looked slammed-er in person... and that was before you lowered the back. Photoshoot with the FA50 on the it?

Hurry up and slam it already . Looks good.

it's alright... Sparkle was a wee bit late/forgot anyway.

Just put a 3SGTE into it......

See you Thursday! Is Ogre around to get drunk before we get there?

Like $150NZD each. Thats really cheap. Just do that, sounds like they'll be able to be shortened.

Sounds like Spence, Sam and D need to buy a car at swapmeet . Vaseline is pretty much semi liquid duct tape/cable ties ie: fixes all Whats using grease like in comparison? Soft seal too expensive??

Round 1 of D2 broke 3 sets of D2's .

Yeah I understand that. It's the same sorta deal though, just instead of having spring etc there is nothing. Then you fir the alloy sleeve on top and add a bush fitting so it bolts in. What were the ones worth in the UK that you want?

Is your charge light turning on before you start the car? It should come on when the key is set to "on" and go out when the engine is running. If the bulbs blown then the exciter circuit wont be complete and the alt wont turn on.

Had a giggle before when searching for info on BHG's... Second result on google.

Heh, BC make heaps of components for Greddy etc apparently. Haven't seen a BC break yet but D2's used to explode all the time.

Can sorta see it here, theres an alloy sleeve threaded over the standard thread with a locknut. The old spax had the sleeves still on them but I cant find for an out of car pic. So you could get a shock that was too short and make it the length you need.

Same as what sheepers has done to the back of his car. You could do it with any off the shelf koni in etc in the back Zeb. Can get shorter ones then needed and add length to the arm by bolting on a spacer type deal.

Tui Plz - KK = wuss. BTW, I won't be drinking much cause of race meet etc....

Your fluid will have boiled or taken on air at the trackday. Always bleed them again after hitting the track.

Sweet door handles. Looks good, keen to see some decent pics when it's all back together.

Pretty sure only the older koni's are like that. Mine are the same but were made in 2000 or so. Newer ones should be know adjustable. Why do you need to shorten them Zep? Would it be a better idea to change your mounting point?

Maybe Jaze (eke zetec)... Pretty sure he still spends time with the yokels over there.