Truenotch

Yeah have seen all of that man, but am trying to work through things my own way to see what happens. Cheers for the encouragement UJ! My quickest time is still a 1:20.8 but in the later rounds of the winter series I was doing 1:21's on semi slicks... I think that's 1/2 decent for 150hp and 900kg. Never quick enough though!

If you could get a copy of that dyno sheet I'll be really interested. Just got a the price for a set of cams from CSL... And it's nearly double what I expected so will definitely be going stock cams for now. I'm thinking about trying out Waynes idea, which was to use the stock ECU to run VVTi and the link as a piggyback for fuel and ignition. It means I'd have to run an AFM and have a spark return signal going back to the computer so it can figure out load/rpm... Not sure if it'll work but it's worth a try.

I haven't had the quote for cams and wheels back yet, but we'll see what comes from it. Not sure where I'll go with it until all quotes for parts come in and I free up some more funds. 200hp is the target, and if that can be had without doing cams it would be nice. I've got a few experiments to try out when we get the motor in there as well. Might still be possible to get the VVTi working without going to a g4... but it'll take some fiddling.

^^^ That is an awesome size. Know if they bring them into NZ?

That! May even get a loan to live even though I'm at home for cheaps.... I'd love to go to a G4, but as I've already said it's just not possible at this point in time. Gathering funds to but the engine was hard enough, and that was much less than a G4 + Tune.

Gay! Get an FA50 etc.....

.... That will be fairly cool. Still in the lux???

^^ Makes them Doort more. All MX5 "tune up guides" say it makes SFA difference.

Did you soak the wrap in water before you tied it on there??? Works well to tighten it up/prevent itchy nut sacks.

Whole heartedly agree Spence... Glenn (?) in aussie said that using VVTi was worth 25KW and a lot of midrange on his race motor, which is not to be ignored. Problem now is to try and rebuild this pulley, toyota list it as a non-serviceable part so there's no info on how to put it all back together .

Yeah it is a lot of coin eh... ^$1620+ gst for the G4 Storm, more for the xtreme. Which is way too much coin while I'm at uni - unless something amazing happens. ... I could do my setup the same as Roman's Carina, with quads going into an airbox running standard AFM etc - it's an option. The other option would be to buy cams, disable VVTi and run adj cam pulleys... Seems to have worked quite well on other peoples cars - Brendan Dunckers Blacktop was supposedly 270 engine hp with standard bottom end, good cams and no VVTi.

Stock comp is millions of work... Will upgrade to G4 if I want to run it propperly - which will most likely happen. It would be ideal to have propper VVTi, 4 coils etc all going.

This is correct... had a measure just before.... Which brings me to a new problem / new fuck up..... I pulled the VVTi pulley apart and now have no clue about how it's supposed to go together - 3 x helical gears to mesh and a big spring with a plate behind it... which also has adjustment. didn't realize until afterwards that the hex head on the outside was a plug, and that it all came off together. Gah. It's pretty cool though! Figured out how the pulley works with it's oil chambers and crazy gearing set up. Simple, yet complicated - but effective.

What'd you measure up against? They look fairly similar in pictures... It's a bit of an effort to remove to girdle for proper measurement though.

^ Yum. Spence - what's different under there that won't let it fit? I haven't tried pulling the cam wheels + front bearing caps/cover off yet to have a decent look.

I've thought about things like that, and am going to do some experimentation, but will likely end up upgrading to G4 link. I've also thought about whether the Gen3 cams will fit in the beams head... After a quick measure of the lobes and bearing caps it seems possible, but I haven't pulled enough off the beams to be able to measure the whole cam. If that works I'll run no VVTi and adjustable cam pulleys for now.

Haha... I suppose I could run with no cover - it would confuse most people. Can run no vvti easy enough, just need to remove solenoid and fit adjustable cam wheels... Which can be done if the earlier wheels are the same, but I haven't compared them yet.

Well, the weekend has past and I have............ cleaned my engine and tidied the shed. Had a good number of helpers on Saturday and it was hot as shit, so we prepared and then went to the river for swims/drinking. Planned on going back home to do more work but just ended up enjoying the sunshine until it was gone. Started again at 11am this morning. First job, swap the sumps over (wanted to have the oil return fitting for my catch can). Turns out the sumps are slightly diferent.... It has space for the crank angle sensor and a lug in a different place. So we looked and thought some more and decided that the factory oil return plus a non-return catch can was good enough. Degreased the engine and looked at it some more. The engine mounts don't fit up the same as the gen 3 block... Another slight difference. On the gen3 there are 4 bolt holes on the intake side of the engine, the beams only has 2, with another 2 further down the block. This means I'll have to make another mount plate for the engine and weld it up. So what we got done was.... P.S - this is the billet flywheel I found on the Gen3:

IMO it's easier to build a new exhaust rather than clean it.... And adjusting the needle is easy enough. You can remove it from the carb without taking the carb off, just unscrew the throttle linkage and pop it out. Then either lift or drop the circlip to suit your situation. I've sanded my needle down to a "steep taper" to get more fuel at full throttle, but it still goes best with the choke on full.

^^ Is that the doc that tells you which fluid etc to run? It's a good read when you're first getting into it. RBF600 is the go IMO. It's $29 retail per bottle and is pretty damn good.... Or RBF660 if you want to spend a bit more.

Haha! It wont be a walk in the park... I had the quickest lap times for that class, which was a bunch of classics. My normal winter racing consists of time brackets - 1:23 and under, 1:23+ and 1:32+. I had a go in the 1:23+ class last year but ended up going too quick as soon as there was space. So with the beams and a good tune it'll put me near the middle of the 1:23 and faster class. And Haha... I would be keen for an atlantic 4AGE, but have looked at that in the past and the $$$ rack up way too fast - and that was with already owning a head. Also, Simon is a cunt. But yeah, looking forward to beams power... Just working out the logistics of getting it going with a relatively low cash input atm.

Keen.

Mine does more than 50. Good info on the exhaust blockage there KK. Building a new one seems to be the best way to combat it. Mine uses a 1-1/4" Coby with a stinger in the end, works mint.

But why ruin it??? There's no point doing that shit cause it will handle fine without it.