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Everything posted by Truenotch

  1. They’re good motors. Also worth looking at the Toyota GR series (2GRFE).
  2. Re: pogo-ness You might find that adding a number of extra clicks of stiffness will fix the bouncing. If the springs are stiff then the shock will struggle to control the spring at low levels. I’d suggest starting at 1/2 way (8 clicks) in the front and rear and see how it feels. I remember Richy’s Torneo was set really firm (also had very stiff springs) and it rode like a dream.
  3. Pulled the flywheel off: that’s one crusty stator plate! Any bright ideas on the beat way to clean the coils?
  4. Hah! Steve and @mark105 had a similar experience with Steve’s DX100. Apparently his bike is a keyboard.
  5. Then I decided to delve a bit deeper. These are CDI, which I'm stoked about as the points are the biggest letdown on the FS1. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the magneto cover screws came out without needing an impact driver. The cover took a couple of taps to come off, and then this gushed forth: I need to get my flywheel puller back from @flyingbrick to assess the situation properly, but that bad boy was full of rusty water! I'd say the cover area was at least half full by the look of the flywheel. I'm quite confused about how it got in there... My current theory is either that water has slowly seeped in during it's time stored outside or the thing was driven through a lake before it was parked up and maybe took a mouthful of water into the engine, which has eventually come out through the crank seals? Who knows! More investigation required.
  6. There's a fair few thing to sort out (as you'd expect), but the first thing I wanted to know was how it would look without all the superfluous 1980's bits. I stripped it back and was pleasantly surprised by its bones: Popped the head off to have a look at the cylinder: Yip, the bore is quite rusty. After a quick measure it's still at the factory size (52mm) and there are piston options for up to 3mm overbore in .25mm increments. First big job on the to-do: rebore. Then I got it naked: I decided it might look better with the bars from the FS1, so I bolted them on and pushed it outside for a few pics: Oh yeah, did I mention it's small? Here's its stature compared to the FS1. The seat height is quite low with the '80s bolster seat removed. e It also has a decent dent in the tank that'll need dealing to at some stage... and I'm definitely leaning towards paying someone to do it.
  7. I've had this thing for a few months now, time to start a project thread. After the East Cape Escapade I was super fizzed about riding on gravel and keen to build / find something more capable than the FS1 for such duties. After a bit of browsing around on trademe and Facebook, this little gem popped up in Wellington: It's a 1983 Yamaha MX100 and looked like the perfect starting point for my dirt track dreams. I got in touch with @My name is Russell to go and have a gander with the idea that he'd grab it if it seemed OK. The price was 150 clams, so I figured it was worth a crack! Russell took the family for a weekend jaunt in the Cortina and came home with the prize: So far, so good. Next was the challenge of getting it up the country. Lucky for me, @Carsnz123 and @smokin'joe were doing a freight run from CCH to drag day and had space on their enormous trailer. Woohoo! It's in Hamilton.
  8. You’re doing great work! I’m taking notes for my MX100 rebuild soon...
  9. Edit the first post. There's a tab above the title that says "Poll".
  10. This description is amazing. It’s like wine tasting notes for 4AGEs.
  11. They’ll be able to buy them through Saint Gibson Abrasives (Norton brand) and they shouldn’t be tooo silly on price.
  12. PPS industries bring in the best ones (Pferd) and they sell direct. You could also try Tradezone or Twiggs in Welly. I personally rate rolled cones way above the cylindrical versions. They last way longer as there’s loads of layers to get through and they’re smaller diameter, so won’t fly apart as easily.
  13. The uprated clutch springs have been fitted to the primary clutch. It's made a huge improvement to acceleration and often tries to spin the rear wheel on gravel as you push off. A also tried to fit uprated springs to the 2nd gear clutch, but it's far too difficult... I fitted one, but couldn't get the other on. It definitely raised the shift point, but you could also hear the 2nd gear clutch slipping as you rode down the road. Apparently another trick is to lighten the clutch shoes to get a later engagement point. I'm going to give it a go, but am weary about ruining the current clutch shoes as I've already used the ones from my parts bike. I threw the small wheels on to see how the acceleration changes. It's faster to 60ishkph, but doesn't have much more after that. I love the high speed doorts, so it's going to stay with large wheels . Small wheel pesting:
  14. Perfect. Neither do mine, @mark105's, @flyingbrick's or @Zeubin's or @64valiant's .
  15. Hondata. It works fine, but a link would be better so he could add an extra map for water/meth injection.
  16. I feel you man! My hoard keeps magically expanding... I picked up a SJ50QT (like Smoky Sue) and that FS50/Lets contraption from Ned... There's 3 bikes in the shed already and those two are under the house... Plus two more FS50's, a partial drome bike and a bunch of puch scooters in the lockup. Summer 2019 is about getting projects out the door and sold (maybe). Who did your seat on the CB?
  17. Yeah, I'm thinking either a small steel moto guard or a minimal wheel fender. The headlight and speedo also need to be moved down a fair distance... It's hard to make a pressed backbone body look tough IMO. Regular frames are easy to make angry.
  18. I still haven't cleaned this thing since the East Cape mission... Maybe that will happen this weekend? I got a special delivery from @Raizer today: a set of bars from a Vmoto Milan. They're about the height that I want and are quite narrow, which suits the FS1 reasonably well. I threw them on and took off the guards to see if I liked the look: I like the bars, but am definitely not sold on the no guards look... Especially in the rear. It would need to be a shitload lower and have a low seat to look right IMO. Put the rear guard back on and took a few other pics: And a couple of sneaky shots with the next 2 wheeled project...
  19. Correct, but there are ways around it. @kdotlowe can probably fill us in on how he did it. Check out this thread too:
  20. Went for a good pest this afternoon and explored a bunch of bushy crevices that I'd never been to before: It still needs uprated clutch springs... Hopefully I'll get that done over the Xmas break.
  21. It would be great if you manage to re-reg it with the OG black plate too!
  22. Weldsafe Titanium. 4 sensors, tig capable, 98x87 viewing area, replaceable batteries, all the adjustments, good headgear, cheap replacement lens covers. Moortool have them on special for $139. Most others will be $200 or so.