Chrome_GT

Yeah Nismo capri is onto it. Make it turbulent to make the flow stick around bends. Used on aircraft , golf balls and all sorts of things. Whether turbulence is a benefit or not depends on the fluid velocity though. I'm not sure how the flow velocity through head ports compares. Someone with a bit of time should look up Reynolds Numbers for ducts, ports etc and see if they find some charts. A few quick calcs and you might get a better answer. I've had people tell me the whole roughness helps vaporise thing too. However having the roughness would surely help catch the fluid in the first place too so I'm not convinced it's the reason. Anyway, equipment wise an air grinder and a decent sized compressor. My die grinder was a lot thristier than my spray gun. a 2.5hp, 50 litre isn't big enough. You'd have to keep stoping and the compressor would be charging all day. I'm pretty sure i've seen long reach grinders on TM too.

You know the bumper strips you have on the side of your car - yeah well make sure the chrome plastic coating stuff hasn't peeled off and started flapping.

I had similar pains when i first got my engine up and running. Sometimes sparked, but sometimes it missed etc or just wouldn't start. Make sure the screw or nut which is holding the condensor lead down is down tight. Maybe your problem is intermittent misfiring rather than backfiring. Retardation tends to help a bit.

No real reason you can't run it in a petrol engine. It is the same as normal oil except has anti soot and cleaning agents. Might be a good thing. I've heard of people who are afraid to use engine flush for the same reasons as mongol said - may remove sludge which is actually stopping oil leaks or carbon etc

Yeah minis and morris's BLMC stuff have twin cables. Just had a look in the dark with my cellphone to light the scene - pulls forwards not up. Could you get some pulleys and rig something up? Otherwise lined cables as mentioned up there ^^^^ . Places like Safe R brakes could probably make something up for you, they can make clutch cables.

Ha yeah, I'm an Invers original. Moved to chch when i was 17.

I LOVE MINISPARES check out what I found! http://www.minispares.com/Article.aspx?aid=90 Fitment of an auxiliary radiator will help if the two-core is not enough - say on a race or rally car. Use the matrix out of the heater box, and plumb this in going from the heater tap take-off, into the back fitting of the matrix, then out of the front fitting and into the bottom hose. Mount the matrix behind the grill for maximum benefit - around fifteen degrees temperature drop can be expected. If you pass the water coming out of the heater tap take-off down the front of the matrix first, you will be blowing hot air across the water going back out of the matrix and into the engine. It is important to know that not taking water out the heater tap take-off will increase the temperature that the number four cylinder runs at substantially due to reduced flow around that chamber. Some folk make the mistake of taking the water out of here and connecting it back to the bottom hose. This is putting un-cooled water straight back into the engine. If you do not want to run an auxiliary radiator or internal heater, plumb the hose from the heater take-off into the top hose. This is the least that should be done. Guess what I did - I removed my heater and just connected each end together. Dumbass !! shame!!!

My engine upgrade has gone well with only a few headaches. 1) Remote shifter rear mount is different but that will be sorted. 2) I have a leak!! The only leak on the whole engine is coming from the timing cover oil seal. I had the cover off while it was out of the car - i should have replaced the seal! damn. So- Can the timing cover be removed while the engine is in the car. It looks to me like there isn't enough room to slide the pulley out. Anyone done this? 3) Overheating problems - What can actually go wrong in a cooling system that would cause overheating? All i can think of is blocked radiator block water jackets wrong or stuffed thermostat leaks water pump or other things like bad timing or lean fuel mixture I'm tempted to just buy a new radiator from trademe, they are $200 but at least i know for sure that isn't the problem. Probably bout time i got one anyway.

Who here has done this conversion? Are you running the radiator from a 1000cc or did you fit the radiator made for the morris 1300? I'm having overheating issues. I've fitted an expansion tank which helped a little bit, especially with reducing the topup amount

Engine Mounts: I checked mounting systems for each engine. Mini's engine mounts: 1) mounted right under flywheel housing 2) mount attached at timing end of engine right below where the radiator sits 3) tie bar provides torsional support at the flywheel end just above flywheel housing Austin/morris 1300 landcrab engine mounts: 1) mounted under flywheel housing as in mini 2) mounted at front front of engine ahead of the timing cover 3) mounted at rear of engine behind timing cover, 2 and 3 are mounted via a large plate that the timing cover is bolted over 4) Mounted right below the radiator as in mini The 1300 Has a plate right behind the timing cover. It extends both forwards and rearwards of the block and has a mount at each end. The mini doesnt use either of these mounts and the plate doesn't have the extensions. In the mini Landcrabs engine I might have had to to swap the plates over because the extended plate on the 1300 will get in the way when working around the engine. But as any professional would do - I hacked the plate using an angle grinder The tapped holes for the tie bar (mini mount 3) are also on the 1275 engine from the landcrab. Radiators The radiators are different. The 1300s radiator is bigger than the mini 1000's one. The larger one will foul against subframe or bonnet depending on where it sits. The larger radiator is also mounted at the bottom by a pin, whereas the mini's one is mounted with a bracket. I swapped the radiator bracket systems between engines so that i could continue using my mini 1000 radiator with it's orginal mounting system. The minis radiator mounting brack is also the timng end engine mount: In yesterday's testdrives the car overheated and lost heaps of water. Was worried the radiator might not be big enough. Have since fitted a new 13lb cap and the engine temp is now keeping under 3/4 of gauge range. Fuel Pump Mini has a mechanical fuel pump. The landcrab has an electric. So I used the minis mechanical on the 1275 engine. There is a removable plate on the 1275 so provisions for fitting the mechanical pump are there. The mechanical pump is running fine.

Ok - an update. My mini 1000 is now a mini 1312. Goes real nice. Basically i bought this: The owner claimed it was a 1300 but had no way of proving it. So with the help of the guys from oldschool.co.nz we sussed out the engine size, yip 1300 here are the photos and notes. http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewto ... 00&start=0 Quick ways to tell if the engine you've got is 1300:

In Short Pre Ignition -google it. Running Hot, heats carbon deposits or sharp edges (ends of valves etc). These hot spots act as another source of ignition, so when you turn of the iginition the hotspots keep it running. The hotspots will also be creating bad flame fronts (leading to detonation) inside the combustion chamber so get it sorted. To fix - try these. a) advance timing. Too later timing means fuel/air charge is still way too hot during the exhaust stroke. richen fuel mix. More fuel means cooler burning c) colder plugs d) remove head and decoke

Hey, Another problem you may have is eccentricity. You mentioned you lined them Up but get it checked out. With bad ececntricity you'll get bad vibes when running the belt as it will be tightening, loosening, tightening, loosening .... every time it turns.

Hmm, Minilights for my mini. Definitelty get in touch if you go through with it

Maybe you could do some kind of lightening hole type arrangment. Lightening holes are basically holes where the inside edge is bent inwards. This would help to maintain the stiffness in the panel if you reckon this might be a problem. It's a method used on Aircraft a lot and that blue escort up there has it too. I think it's usually done in a press though so you might have to be inventive with a dolly or something.

Os capri. What's your capri look like. Chuck a photo up when ya get a chance. Agree with rt, the lower the plate the better but definitely get a subtle front spoiler - especially if it's a mk2. I have myne just under the front bumper but i'm planning to lower it further. Was originally in front of the front bumper - real ugly

So, do Morris 1300 discs fit minis without too much trouble? I have a complete 1300 sitting in my driveway so i'll rip out anythin that could be of use. i'm definitely taking the brake master and clutch slave cylindars. Steeling the hubs will make giving away the body a bit more difficult. Considering chopping the body for welding practise

My 5 cents. I learnt Arc briefly a couple years ago. Pretty easy but only any good on thick stuff. Bought a 140amp NeWeld mig last year ($408 from Repco but around $600 retail). Used it for the first time on Friday. I run fluxcore wire 0.8mm ($25 from Repco retail). Welded both 2mm piping and 4mm chunky steel and worked sweet as. Did splatter a bit but was able to get smooth welds. My workmate only uses gasless as he finds it doesn't cause any problems with anything he's done. I might try gas one day but only when I have too. Seems a bloody hassle hiring bottles when I only plan to use it one every couple months max. My advice - novice advice but I was i a similar situation to you - Buy an entry level Mig approx $500 - $700, Get some flux core, and get an autodarkening. I borrowed my workmates on Friday and it's great for learning. That arc eye thing is a worry though as it's something I've always questioned. Do Beware of Cheap import types of migs like myne. I've heard of many which were returned with various faults so only buy with a warantee.

Minstrel - was there any other info in the advertising you saw? If I'm not doing anything that day i might go. Good excuse to clean the car.

woh guess that shows the lack of safety factor in home gyms. And the Gym ones should be better quality than home gyms too.

Good point, hadn't considered swapping the cowlings. I think the morris cowling is wider so may have issues - will look into it though. Your right the bolts on the mini system are really fiddly to remove. I found a good way of doing it yesterday. I basically forget about accesing from the front and just use a ratchet spanner through the tiny access hole in the arch.

Yeah it is dodgy. Theres no way the thing will get damaged as it will only ever be supporting 70kg unless the weights reach full travel and then there is 220kg suspended by the machine . Not anything to do with time in the air. but ya know - it was a middle of the night idea. I even drew some free body diagrams haha. Was worth putting on here though for a laugh. Since finding out the others are$20 then I'm likely to do that anyway.

I know this is completely fucked up but has anyone tried using a homegym for engine removal? The process 1)remove the seat under the lat pulldown 2)push front of car under the lats pull down pulley (must be a short nose like my mini) 3)attach hook 4)load up maximum weight approx 70kg i think 5)Two people pull down hook against 70kg to meet engine hooking point Now 70kg is taken up by the home gym. Mini engine/trans assy is approx 150kg so required lifting 80kg 6)Two people lift 40kg each. 40+40+70=150 7) a 3rd person pushes car out of the way 8.) lower engine into a wheel barrow or onto a table. As long as the engine isn't left to hang while the weights are at there upwards limit of travel the home gym shouldn't break I'lll let u know if i try it, anyway to hire a crane is $20 per day so a ot less hassle. Will definitely hire when installing the engine as need more control then. Has anyone done any other engine lifts with anything weird?

Ok done a bit of work on the car engine today so wana record some details on here. Might be useful for other oldschoolers I've checked mounting systems for each engine. Mini's engine mounts: 1) mounted right under flywheel housing 2) mount attached at timing end of engine right below where the radiator sits 3) tie bar provides torsional support at the flywheel end just above flywheel housing Austin/morris 1300 landcrab engine mounts: 1) mounted under flywheel housing as in mini 2) mounted at front front of engine ahead of the timing cover 3) mounted at rear of engine behind timing cover, 2 and 3 are mounted via a large plate that the timing cover is bolted over 4) Mounted right below the radiator as in mini The 1300 Has a plate right behind the timing cover. It extends both forwards and rearwards of the block and has a mount at each end. The mini doesnt use either of these mounts and the plate doesn't have the extensions. I might have to swap the plates over because the extended plate on the 1300 will get in the way when working around the engine. Now I have to go find a timing cover gasket or two In the mini Landcrabs engine The holes for tthe tie bar (mini mount 3) are also on the 1275 engine from the landcrab. But they aren't tapped. So will have to tap these before installing engine. The radiators are different and yes the larger one will foul against subframe or bonnet depending on where it sits. The larger radiator is also mounted at the bottom by a pin, whereas the mini's one is mounted with a bracket. I will swap the end bracket systems under the radiator because of this as i want to continue using the mini radiator. The minis radiator mounting brack, also the timng end engine mount: Mini has a mechanical fuel pump. The landcrab has an electric. So I'll have to use the minis mechanical on the 1275 engine. There is a removable plate on the 1275 so I'm pretty confident thats where it goes. Hard to see in the mini. Will be easiest to do while both engines are out of the car. Once this conversion is done I'll bring all the info across to my project post. May even submit a technical on it as it's a conversion which alot of people do.

Just checked what i have, plastic 16bladers. They'll do for now. Forgot to mention, I found out it has 1mm (0.040") oversize pistons. Sweeeet which gives 1312cc according to Vizards book. This vizard book I've been lent is great. 487 pages of everything to do with tuning an A series. Sometimes finding the answer ya want is difficult though cos it's so damn thick. It mentions the Fans and rates plastic items as pretty good.