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viewtopic.php?f=18&t=14229 here is the discussion thread, the parts car is your old one i only had to go to hamilton to get it in the end They are good for skids aye.. for a whale!

GX61 update. The motor ran pretty sweet at the joe munji skid day last month, see photos... list of the work done. Extractors to 2.5 inch exhaust. Sportline wood/chrome steering wheel. T3 30mm RCA's. Modified celica TA63 short PS steering arms. Celica st182 front springs. Ford falcon rear springs. Front koni adjustable inserts (AE92). Rear Mk2 supra toxico HT blues (MA61). Urethane suspension bushes throughout. Replaced worn tie rod end and idler arm assy. Chaser grill and bonnet fitted. Remade 7MGE throttle-body adapter plate. Still havent driven it with some of the mods being fitted, Need a wheel allignment asap as the whole susp has now been out, new bushes fitted and reassembled etc. I had to take off the grease nipple on the lca ball joint to clear the 14" mags after fitting the RCA's. Much bigger than 30mm and i would have to use 15"s. The new steering arms just clear (5mm) the factory alloys inner lip (may need spacers with my wider mags). I want to try a pair of corona tt142 (TA63) front struts in there at some point i hope this might give me some neg camber and help clearance for the steering arm... The caliper is on the opp side of the brake disc but i cant see that being an issue? I am already using the steering arms to suit. viewtopic.php?f=18&t=14229 <<<< Discussion Thread

Yeah that grill was the only reason i got the car. I got it as a rolling body, rusted out in a big way, had been a donor for a 5 speed conversion, only had about 80,000km on it. the complete swap to the pre fl car will be a bit of work quite a lot is different. I cut the rear tailight panel out of the shell so i can fit the massive tailights later if i feel the need Project thread>>> viewtopic.php?f=17&t=7975

Nah that was picked up for scrapmetal a while back. not much left after i stripped it.

Hi m8. yeah the car is undiscussed until now A few points to watch with 1geu to 1ggeu mainly due to the intake being on pass side of 1gge.. The 1gge needs a longer throttle cable than the 1geu. I used a corona st150 one but had to modify it still. Try to get the powersteering pump, remote filler bottle + hose with the 1gge. The 1geu PS fits to the head with bottle/ pump together where as a 1GGE has pump on block and resiouvar bottle separate on inner guard. Radiator pipes are in different positions. i used an silvia S14 bottom hose, and for the top hose i used 2 old hoses cut up with a bit of stainless tube for a joiner. Other minor differences like alternator plug and brake vaccum hose needs extending... think thats about it. not sure about wiring mine has aftermarket ecu. I think my tvis has been removed. who knows what else. yeah pointies look sweet polished with low pros but not great on this, they make good wof wheels.

OK update with pictures time I got the rust and paint work finished. Replaced a bunch of brake parts. Car is now road legal woohoo. Also swapped the orig rear suspension/subframe bushes with new home-made urethane ones thanks to Ronnie. The 1geu and auto was ripped out and a 1gge and w55 now takes its place. 2.0L dohc 24v 5speed, still have some wiring to finish and exhaust etc, cant wait till its running. The rolling body i got for parts was stripped and taken away for scrap metal. Heres a few pics... Pictured with Ryans Mark II. Replacing rear subframe bushes. http://www.toycrazy.net/alex/filestemp/ ... ap-020.jpg 1GGE engine. http://www.toycrazy.net/alex/filestemp/1gge-frtop.jpg http://www.toycrazy.net/alex/filestemp/1gge-fr.jpg http://www.toycrazy.net/alex/filestemp/1gge-intake.jpg http://www.toycrazy.net/alex/filestemp/1gge-ex.jpg http://www.toycrazy.net/alex/filestemp/1gge-top.jpg Engine in. http://www.toycrazy.net/alex/filestemp/gx61c.jpg http://www.toycrazy.net/alex/filestemp/gx61a.jpg http://www.toycrazy.net/alex/filestemp/gx61b.jpg Parts car ready to go. http://www.toycrazy.net/alex/filestemp/gx61e.jpg http://www.toycrazy.net/alex/filestemp/gx61d.jpg .

cool project man. shes a beauty. Have any issues fitting 1GFE or all bolts in? Lucky me got g/f to keep greasy handprints off lightswitches and cheese. must b something about working on mark2s and craving cheese?

Hey all. Well this thing has had some progress over the last 2-3 weeks after about 1 year of nothing happening apart from collecting a few parts/cars. Rust is now repaired which involved removing all doors and welding steel into the bottoms. not the best job since it warped them pretty bad along the bottom edge. I hope to find some rust free doors to swap in. (could be a long search). For now rust should not b a Wof issue tho so that was the main priority. Ive painted over the repairs with some quick dry enamel colour matched (033 paint code) its a bit ghetto, i need to cut n polish the whole thing so will find out how my blending looks soon.. it still has dents here and there and some crazy paint cracks on the bonnet. Wondering if i make this ratrod styles since its pretty ratty looking already lol. Now i just got brakes and seatbelts to sort out then hopefully i can get it road legal and start modifying it. Got a semi-worked 1GGE lined up for it, bought it off trademe it has the following mods: Adjustable cam gears. 7mge injectors and throttle body. Extractors. Winged sump. Microtech ECU (really old one u tune with a screwdriver lol) It was out of a dirt track escort which had 150hp atw so might be fun for a bit, later on i may look at turboing a 1GFE i got in my garage. Heres some old photos of my facelift mark2 parts car and another gx61 chaser i bought. (next in project quewe)

I got a pair of 225/40/14 toyo proxies also a pair of ventus 185/55/14. both pairs i scored 2nd hand so no idea of cost new.

I can get some measurements off my gx61 if that will help. (save u the $1 p.a.p entry fee) let me know.

4cyl and 6 cyl versions have about 100mm difference in wheelbase in both 2nd gen (*A40) and 3rd gen (*A60) celicas. The extra 100mm is in the rear half of the engine bay on the 6cyl models, they have longer guards and bonnets. To fit a GA61 x member (with rack steering) will depend on the MA45 chassis rails being the same width as ga61. The other parts should be relatively easy with a bit of fabrication and interchanging parts. steering column being the major probably. The 1G engine may drop straight onto the M x-member. Have a measure up or test fit it, it could work. The gearbox xmember will need looking at, W50 is different to W55 mounting.

^^^ what he said. I have some spares for gx60, what you looking for thminiman?

Ill try get some filler primer coz i need some for other areas and can look into sikaflex. I may try using the underseal but a real thin coat. If it looks like poo i can just scrape it off, repaint it. If it seems to do the job, bonus I already painted my sills in the underseal and i plan to paint over it with white. ill spray primer over the underseal, then paint white final coats. should stick fine. The car is far from getting a full paint job its just gonna get all the repair patches repainted to get wof'd and back on the road. anyone know a place around sth aucks, east tamaki to get some filler primer, just wanting some to brush on and sand etc. If they can mix up toyota white from a paint code that would be sweet cheers

Hey thnx, yeah some spray putty sounds like it would help. I know underseal in there sounds bad but i was kinda imagineing i would mask off all but a thin 20mm strip around the bottom of the U shape metal channel and spray a thin coat of underseal/sealer. This would be half covered by the rubber boot seal when i refit it and would create a waterproof layer protecting the whole water runout channels. I can see normal paint finish cracking as soon as that boot lip gets hit by accident putting stuff in the boot etc. Im not too concerned with what it looks like to a point its just an effort to keep water out and try save my car rusting anymore from the inside out. Basically i want to know any good underseal brands available, If u have used the mitre 10 stuff ull know why i wanna try something better or at least more suitable for what im trying to achieve. cheers again

here's some rust work from the last couple of months. Ive welded some angle iron just above the tailights as it was very weak in this area due to large parts of steel missing! fun fun

Hi, great thread ive learnt a few tricks reading thru it already ive got a question about underseal... Ive just about finished the rust repairs on my mark 2, i have already used rubber underseal on the wheelarches and the sills. Its the crap in the red spraycan available from mitre 10. the stuff seems to not set very hard. (soft enough i can still rip it with my fingertip yet i sprayed it a month or so ago.) Im wanting to spray the boot channels (like around the rubber boot seal) and the roof gutters under the chrome trim with something similar only more durable that sets harder, is waterproof and i can paint over it. Some of my welding/nutech is not all that tidy and i think underseal would smooth it up a bit and still be flexible and waterproof, more so than just normal primer and paint. i dont wanna use the mitre 10 shit and have it all soft getting damaged putting stuff in the boot etc. Any1 know of a quality, durable, hard setting rubber underseal and or where i might find some? Thnx

hi all, this is my corona mark2 grande, Since im seeing a few mk2s on here lately i thought id post mine up too. Its 1982 model 4dr hardtop GX61. Independant rear suspension, It currently has a 1geu (2.0L 6cyl non xflow.. makes good boat anchor), so im planning on upgrading to a twincam 1gge or 1gfe. This is only a cruiser car so not really going for massive power. Its automatic but ive got a w55 + manual conversion out of the blue donor gx60 also shown in pics. Im in the middle of rust work on it so i can get a wof. It had quite a lot of rust around the back tailights and rear windscreen. And a bit around the roof edges. Ive fixed the worst of it already but now work is on hold until after xmas. other project car needs working on. !?! Alex discuss >>> viewtopic.php?f=18&t=14229 PS: performed photoshop lowering on the 1st pic... it is so high..

Anpanman i have sent pm about centre console.

Man that car is a jdm pimpin machine! lovin it. I got one too, i was thinking of making it into a drifter but its rusty as hell, was a factory manual. http://www.madaz.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i ... deGX61.jpg I used the gbox for my corona 5spd conversion and sold the other manual bits now it just sits on my driveway getting more rusty. Is yours auto or 5spd? I have a manual centre console for it if u want one. Mine was pretty tail happy even with boat style bodyroll I knew these cars could look pretty nice and your one is proof... wicked job!

hi, you wont find a gearbox code punched on it afaik. http://www4.tpgi.com.au/users/loats/tec ... boxes.html this webpage should be of some help identifying it if it is a W5* series box. it could be a T50 which is smaller. All the W boxes have 9 or so bolts holding the bellhousing to the gbox, the T50 bellhousing is held on with only 6 i think. If you still stuck ask on toyspeed forum and u should get some help. Alex.