Ned

nice! thats what im looking for as well, something that size! Pretty sure those are pretty terrible for vac tables... Probably need proper vac pump to actually hold anything down...

sweet! how many watts? i keep seeing some cheap ones pop up, but are only 750W and im hoping for a big one! Shop vac works ace my little CNC, but keen to plumb all my things into one unit. also, BIG fan of cyclones! oh my, my cheap china one does a 10/10 job! and stops you sucking big things through the impeller of your vacuum haha

also, fasttrade is amaze balls for fasteners in general. online website with pricing and deliver quick etc will trade again and again and again

you can add a 4th servo to the device, and spin the marker around 180deg and have an eraser on the end, and trace the same path it wrote for the last number, and write the new one

i really want to make one now haha. Seems fun!

one of you cold island dwellers should just buy this...= https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/other/listing-2704414280.htm

Shiiiiit! What a lineup!

i just wanted to come and say i like this. Thats all... i have nothing else of value to add to this post/build, you're doing a killer job!

terrible timing (on my part, i should have considered this!) but we have a little one due on the 9th of Dec... and with Lexys history, there is no way i'm going to be able to make this one sorry. And i was even planning on riding this time hahahaha

I got a reduced kit to save shipping and got just nuts/bolts etc, motors and chains, motor driver, z motor (was optional then) No router. I bought the Bosch POF something or other and modified it to drive itself as the Z axis. It was actually very popular and appear to be the common way to donit now for places that arent the US as they use a different router (110v) Mine was 3d printed at home but some dude got me a baller 3d printed one from straya, and then some dude 5 axis machined me one out of aluminium in the UK. So sweet! Such a shame its not being used hahaha

I got one of the maslow from the first kickstarter batch... Never got it running as everyone was reporting rubbish results and tried converting it to xy and then i found the lowrider and just built that last year

Thanks for the tag there @JoKer but im not allowed to comment in this thread as all serious CNC people laugh at the machine it's 3d printed, user 3d printer parts, has zero rigidity, is slow as fuck, not mega accurate and runs on belts and skateboard wheels but it's also $1000 from no machine to a working machine, and will do a full sheet, so i built that it's called the Lowrider2 CNC from V1 Engineering

Like what? Other than rounding down?

Your serial port is way slower than your math conversions you'll be fine. Even with floats. Plus the wideband probably doesnt have a very high update rate anyway. Still, using decimal is way better there Also, roman, its 0-1023, not 1024 BTW

Nah, just shows you the last x amount of seconds. I can add an input so that it stops when you flick a button or something? So flick a switch and it starts, and when you flick it again it stops and shows the last x amount of seconds? The idea was never to do super crazy tuning with it, but being able to do a pull and see a little history would be ace. Looking at a number on the screen when doing a WOT run just isnt feasible if you ask me

I made this. Can send the hex files if useful

haha, my car runs and drives liek a bag of dicks and was way better with factory carbs but it hast he POTENTIAL to be great This was always a temp ECU, as it was broken and we hot glued some components in there and 'dead bug' soldered them to the board to make it work, so we only ever tuned WOT for drag racing... That temp fix is still running today, and we did that 5.5 years ago, so i've been running a BADLY tuned car for 5.5 years because i dont wanna spend time tuning something thats going in the bin anyway i have no pics, but this is dead bug style soldering;

i think there is a small margin of people that would actually care? if it runs and drives well, then joe bloggs wont give a fuck? if its someone that loves to tinker then as long as its at least well documented and runs some well supported code etc, then i dont think its any different to a micro/mega squirt if someone wants to get the car and pay a man to tune it to squeeze every last ounce of power out, and that man will only work with a link/haltec etc then old mate money bags can pay the extra $$$ to put a link in if he really wants? I think whether or not it has a good tune in it is going to be the real deciding factor there..... nobody going to pay max dollars for a car with a shit tune, regardless of how flash the ECU

dug it out a few days ago. Sitting literally next to me on my desk hahaha edit: RusEFI has e-throttle support

lookin good mate

someone should photoshop that front hub in different colours and see how it looks... stands out like a sore thumb, but might just be the price to pay?

mint, looks ace

It could be working, it could not be. Best way to check is to monitor the charge light and see if it goes on and off etc, or if it stays off. Though, you have a BMS with a separate port for charging right? and it charges when you first plug it in right? In which case the BMS should be working fine. Thje charge port isnt connected to the battery pack unless the BMS connects it, so if it charges, the BMS should be working... What BMS did you get? Because the one i found that looks like the one you have doesnt actually have a balance feature, so might be worth checking if your has it or not. Initial charge is a cunt, especially with mismatched cells, as i assume you didnt check capacity or internal resistance of each cell before building a pack right? If you have access to a lab power supply, just charge each bank individually by setting the power supply to 4.2V with a 1A current limit or something like that, and let them all charge individually and 'top balance' the pack that way. Once they are all charged and balanced, they should be fine. Or If you're worried, get a Daly BMS. They have fantastic reviews and have a balance feature. You can also get one of these: active balancers which will start transferring charge between neighbouring cells if the difference is more than 0.1V, which might be nice to have. Plenty of reviews online that say they dont work, but plenty that say they do. I have 2 at home, and both work flawlessly.

Sweet, that will just be a current limited power supply, so when the BMS disconnects the charger, the current stops flowing so the light will go green. Wait a bit for the BMS to pull one of the cells down, and it will (should) turn the charge back on and the light will go red again. If it does that, then you're in business.

so a BMS like that will only have a shunt of 55mA or something teeny like that. So to discharge a cell thats over volt will take a long ass time, and you need it on charge for hours. Especially first time to balance them all. Make sure its kinda working though by making sure you have power on the output, and the BMS is actually working, or else it will not protect the cells when charging and you might kill a few. Though if any of the cells measure too low it wont turn on, so it could be working without the output being on. When you say it switched off, was that the charger saying it was done? or did the BMS cut it off? or you turned it off? What is the charger? Just a current limited power supply? or something more fancy? other option is just using a smaller single cell charger to charge each set of cells of 4.2V and when charged do the next and so forth to 'top balance' all the cells in the pack, and then hope for the best after that.