CaMpylobacter

TBH I probably drive it like a nana compared to what 99.9999999% of people. It doesn't seem to hur4t economy when my offsider drives it though and during the week he does more km in it than me so maybe he drives it like that too. I still get along at a fair chop. Just seems like you just pour gas down it if you give it mega beans rather than get anywhere really any quicker. I'm often commuting on closed roads at 120kph etc

^ Not sure if pisstaking or not. I'm actually rather amazed at that thing. So cheap to run. seems to be loosening up now that it's getting higher in km. an old fulla took it to masterton and back today. trip computer thing says 7.8l/100 now.

Well you all know I love taking shit pictures of shit things. Engine is out

yeah it she's always got a bit of weight over the tongue (as all trailers should) it should be sweet as.

i'm pretty sure they are eh. For light trailers I'm pretty sure the coupling ruling is like for car towbars. So long as the guy doing the wof thinks it's suitable for use then it psses? I wouldn't use one though but they rate them at like 1500kg or somesuch! I always figured they'd be fairly rattly beasts.

I heard they were absolutely fizzing at head office

floor plate couldn't handle the danger to manifold tbh

Half our guys couldn't wire a tail lamp so probably limits our spend with them..... Prolly a bit rough but yeah we sub most of our electrical out. Do quite a bit of stuff through the retail sales part so it will probably grow. At this stage I've bought more for my own stuff than anything hahah

Seems to! Havent done huge amounts through them yet but i like browsing their online store. My brother has an account there for his new bidNess and seems to be buying stuff constantly. Great place and very helpful which compared to their direct competition in town is a breath of fresh air.

also I'll have a 186 up for grabs soonish. wants a bit of love but could be an ideal recipient for a tart up if you wanted to not take your whip to bits before you get it sorted

can get yours 'reground' for about $150+gst or get it smacked on a new billet for another$150+gst - so $345 for a brand new item I went the new billet way so that it'd keep a good base circle etc etc and my original cam just looked pooey. Went for the High torque/"STAGE 2" cam which should work pretty well for my application. I'm happy with the power output of a buggered 186, just keen for a bit more power a little higher up the rev range so it should go nicely esp with stock style exhaust and carb and shit. You can still get crow cams for them but they're approaching $500 for one and I wasn't too worried about that. The real fun here will come when I see how much it needs to be dialled in I guess. Not sure what method to go with to dial the cam in/adjustable timing gears etc. I guess I'll make a call on whether to even bother when it gets to that stage. Next thing I'm after is a 3.3 blue/black carby engine electronic dizzy if anyone has one kicking around...

new cam turned up joker didn't include my cam thrust plate so can't press the gear onto this one 'til that turns up sadly. ballz

probably if it were just whacked on there. will be jetted to suit etc though

get some 'universal tractor oil' off them and run it in EVERYTHING like a true farmer too

discussion //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38706-campylobacters-campylandrover/

oh yeah I chucked those widened s1 steelz and crossply muds on for a lol. looked pretty staunch. same width as the ones I roll now and I didn't really want the extra offset making the steering even cuntier so I didn't run with them. plus the tyres were cracked and i didn't want them esploding on me 750r16 radials on stock LWB rims. 750-16 crossply wranglers on widened SWB series one rims.

also, ran a vin decoder and confirmed that it definitely was a factory 2600cc 6. all the signs pointed to this anyways. 347 Model: Land Rover, Series IIA Body type: Basic Wheel base: 109in Engine: 6-cylinder Model years: 1966-1971 Destination: Completely knocked down (CKD), right-hand drive (RHD) 0J996 Serial number D Design: Three significant design modifications Suffix used from April 1967 till March 1968

turns out the engine in the series one was/is a 173. Whipped some shit off it and it's definitely had a recent rebuild. bores are a wee bit glazed looking and had a bit of greasy carbon on the piston tops. I imagine the glazing comes from running low load high RPM as is often done when doing road driving in old series landys. Once I get it together I'll chuck a decent trailer on the thing and give it a good pull up through vinegar hill and shit. Didn't blow any smoke so I reckon it'll come right. Not really any evidence of blowby etc from the underside so we'll see. +.50mm pistons and new bearings, alloy timing gears etc. cam looks a bit worn so will bin that head hadn't really had a birthday - needed new exhaust valves and springs are a bit soft, guides are a bit pooey. I blame the carbon on this . gave the head to ol' jim and he's taking forever.... he's giving the ports a bit of a clean up/deshrouding the valves, sorting the springs/exh valves etc He's also built up a late red 202 carb for it or some shit. need to order a camshaft. I don't want a 'regrind' so will prolly get one smashed out of a new billet off auckland camshaft services. lpg/towing 'high torque' type should free up a few neddys and make it happier to sit at high rpm lol. will order a new alternator closer to the time of engine fitment (100A one from ashdowns) and a few other bits and pieces. I was reluctant to use the 173 when I found it wasn't what it was meant to be but they're not that far down on power compared to a 186, plus I was always happy with the amount of power the 186 made, just it was getting tired and the cam thrust plate etc i think is worn causing camshaft walk/unable to get the timing nice so it pinks like fuck. should go good once it's in. Need to replace the input shaft bearing in the trans too so I haven't been using the thing for the last couple of months until I get the cylinder head back and can proceed with the engine swap. I stripped the series one of anything decent (fuck all) and sold the wheels/tyres to a joker that'll be using them on his farm landy (10km commute to his cowshed on closed roads then paddock work etc) which recovered the cost of the vehicle. rest went to scrap - chassis broke in half when they forklifted it off my trailer. lolz.

yar. castrol is/was pushing a fuel saver engine oil to jokers running 15w-40 a couple of years back. save fuel by smacking 5w-30 in there. not something I'd probably do on a high load engine that's designed for 15w-40 tbh but who am I to know. my pos is recommended 5w-30 in both engine and trans but we were rolling 10w-40 coz that's what the small trucks with same engine recommend and we have that in the bulk tank etc etc. definitely worthwhile running a lowly stressed ute on the thinner stuff though.

any of you dweebs running a lighter engine and/or trans oil? My work ute has dropped 1-1.5L/100km since we whacked it on the 5w-30 synthetic it's 'supposed' to run vs. the 10w-40 synth that we pump into little trucks that have the same engine are meant to run. running 5w-30 in the trans now instead of the 15w-40 it used to as well. (isuzu 4cyl manual boxes run engine oil and will barely shift if you use heavier gear oil)

Man every time I go past that weirdo at midhurst I used to see that green thing and think of you. I always thought you knew about it tho hah. I remember it in about 05 being pretty mint in comparison. That guy is weird as shit and seems to dislike selling stuff so you did well to get it! Epic dolly trip. Did you take it through forgotten highway?

PICS ARE ALL IN MY HEAD MEMORY was pretty dark in that carpark so no pics soz good feeds though. would trade again

nice nice!

mate! the wheels alone make this the best project in the other projects section! are you going to box in those open floor sections at the front at all?

this could be pretty lush!