AE25

an O2 sensor puts out a voltage when it's hot and theres oxygen present which ranges from 0-1v. im not sure if theres any other variations to this, not sure the difference of 'wide band' etc so there probably is. there are heated O2 sensors that are better as they get hot more quickly when engines started. these usually have 3 or four wires instead of one. on factory ecu the O2 sensor is often used in a 'closed loop' mode which constantly adjusts the air/fuel mix when cruising to get optimum efficiency/economy/emissions whatever. late model cars can use it for checking emissions.. like having one each side of the catalytic converter to see if its working. on after market systems the 02 sensor is used to tune the programmable air/fuel map. either by a self tune where the ecu automatically tries to get optimum air/fuel and saves it into the map... or to tune it manually with a hand controller or laptop by checking the air/fuel mix via the oxy sensor. alot of aftermarket ecu's nowadays tune by a laptop and will have an air/fuel mixture display on the screen. if not then an air/fuel gauge or meter is handy and more readable then trying to do it off a voltmeter hooked up to the oxy sensor lol. can tune a carb this way too.. obviously by driving the car or having it on a rolling road then checking to see if it's running rich or lean and adjusting the jets to suit. you dont 'have' to run an O2 sensor on aftermarket ecu.. but you'll have to tune it by some other means like on a dyno with the exhaust probe up the pipe or borrow the exhaust emissions tester and go for a drive (these are more accurate than an oxy sensor. for best performance you get it tuned by a professional on a dyno. but it pays to try get it close to perfect by self tune (if you know what you're doing that is).

im using a jaycar 'diy' $20 a/f meter. i has a row of led's that show a/f mixture. is a bit of fiddling round with the soldering iron and wiring but works well and connects to oem O2 sensor. it has a calibration screw to adjust for gain.. probly not a good option for tuning purposes but is great for daily driving and fault finding. ie thats how i found my tps wasn't clicking into idle mode as the ecu was still constantly adjusting mixture as if it was in closed loop mode at idle.

a weak clutch type lsd can often be checked by having both wheels jacked up and free. turn one wheel lightly and watch if the other one tries to spin the same way or opposite way.. often a weak clutch lsd starts to spin same way but then switches to opposite way. an open diff will immediately try spin in opposite direction. this obviously wont work if your drums are a bit tight! if the wheels keep spinning same way (gearbox in neutral).. chuck it in 1st gear and try again and see how hard it is to spin one wheel before the clutch pack breaks friction and other wheel spins opposite direction. if your clutch type lsd is any good you wont be able to break friction by spinning an axle flange by hand with it in gear or driveshaft clamped to stop it spinning.

well it's about time! i think its a great idea and gives reason to attend. i must admit i stopped going as late model cars with flashy paint and body kits werent my thing but this one will be interesting! stop ya bitchin

theres an ae86 diff on trademe $400 reserve but a couple of the mounts cut off what kinda price you looking at buying a te71 diff for?

yeah lockers are cunty on the street doing slow turns and u-turns etc. ive always had one in my ke70 from day dot.. (last 3 years) 6" diff... upgrade to 6.7" then upgrade to 7.5" heh. just bougt 2way kaaz lsd for it now you realise those manuals are for toyota 6.7", 7.5" and 8" lsd. i doubt ford lsd would have identical diff. as a source for toyota lsd's... altezza have a 7.5" torsen lsd factory... GT-FOUR celica's have a 6.7" torsen in the rear.. ma61/ta63/ra63/aa63 GT spec toys have an optional 7.5" irs clutch lsd which can be converted to live axle. some cr30 townace/masterace have live axle 7.5" lsd but pretty rare to find. ga70/ma70/jza70 etc supra have 8" irs optional lsd. hilux have 8" live axle lsd yada yada. i'll see if i can get my scanner hooked up.. havent used it in a year

who's turning up the bearing carrier? cant exactly laser cut that heh

i dont see why a bias valve from a fwd toyota with 9" disks all round wouldnt work on your te71?

remember that fitting non oem struts often affects other parts of the steering and braking. i suggest you thoroughly research the swap if not usuing ke20/ke25/ke26 struts. this guide may help in finding suitable swaps http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/struts.html just remember the length quoted were mostly measured with a ruler so not entirely accurate. steering arm bolt pattern should be though. to start with, could try kp starlet strut including the steering arms. the whole shebang should bolt in. steering arms same length too. all later corollas have a bigger ball joint... so can shim the ke25 ball joint with 1mm shim (a bit dodge) or find custom ball joints then use ke30/ke70/ae85/ae86 etc struts/steering arms and change the top hat that bolts to the strut tower to kp starlet or ke2 top hat so it bolts in. later model corolla springs likely to be stiffer/taller so need to sort out a lowering spring to suit. also later corolla will have longer steering arms so will increase the turning circle and slow the turning response. camber is often made increasingly positive (not helpful) and preferably dont use an arm longer than 125mm eye-to-eye as the std ke25 one is only 110mm. i could not to a u-turn on a 2 lane road when i had 138mm arms i believe s1-s3 rx7 strut bolts to ke2 steering arm.. s1 & s2 have 4x110 studs like the 25 but s3 have 4x114.3 like the later corollas and starlet. then need to sort out springs and top hat etc. not know much about that swap but could ask logan (las52). remember that if you use a strut with larger brakes, it will affect the brake bias so try keep it to an 8" disk and all should be groovy. as an example of the affects of strut conversion.. i've put ae85 struts in my ke26... ie 9" disk. used 115mm ae86 p/s steering arms, ae92GT shocks spaced up which is 2" shorter stroke, king springs 'lows', have shimmed the ball joints for now but have te28 steering arms on the way which bolt the ae85 struts in and are identical in length!! BUT! the side affects i have found is 1.5' positive camber after lowering (so would be worse and std height). i have front bias braking.. not so noticeable in the dry but dangerous in the wet and tricky when sideways. to counter these i'm making camber plates and i used the ae85 struts with the intention of upgrading my diff to a shortened ma45 with te71 disk brake which when fitted with te71 bias valve will be good again. think safe! suspension modifications legally require lvv certification

oh and doing burnouts/drift on a viscous lsd can cook the oil and they dont work no more locker best for drag/burnout mechanical (clutch) best for drift/race torsen or viscous good for street/race or whatever clutches do wear out eventually so need maintenance... viscous need oil changes... torsen lsd dont wear out. wouldnt want to use a torsen with overly large tyres as the small helical gears would cop a beating

quick but not so accurate way to check diff ratio.. jack one wheel off ground but other one must stay still (wont work if you have locker/strong clutch type lsd), gearbox in neutral, mark drum/disk against backing plate and diff pinion flange against diff housing... turn driveshaft and count how many turns to do exactly TWO turns of the disk/drum. the amount of driveshaft turns is your diff ratio... no calculations required. oem toyota clutch lsd use various thickness clutch plates to add up to the correct thickness. i have 'photocopied' toyota manuals for T, F and G series toyota lsd's if anyone is seriously interested in doing a diy rebuild.. will need to scan it onto comp etc so no rush to do it. i once took an 8" lsd to steelie which he was going to put in a stronger spring for more lsd action. dunno if he did it but when i went back to pick it up he didnt realise i intended it for tarmac/drift and he'd set torque to suit gravel.. took a week to do it.. took 2 months to redo it. after about the 5th visit.. it took him 10mins to strip it, shim it and set gear meshing etc. hes a good guy and very helpfull but slow turnover. doesnt help when he was involved in car accident

eugene imports T3 stuff and hes in auckland http://www.86factory.com/T3Cbrpltsi.htm but its likely cheaper dealing direct

cool cool a fresh TG is a good start! i think everyone here knows all about time/money issues

ya i looked a few pages back but couldnt find any soo done much to it performance wise?

looks like the winning bidder pissed around as that ra28 from nelson has been offered for $2550

badass! hey did you buy this off reo yoshimitsu from Tama?

drftnmaz now gots a hilux diff skidzon bo your carb running a bit rich or something? i could hear ya boost up the road when ya left haha and that corner is a bit a fun aye!

18rg would be a relatively easy conversion in your case tho they pretty heavy and usually need a freshen up if it hasnt already... they 23+ years old now probly easier finding an injected 18rgeu and convert it to carbs rxtoy im surprised you didnt jump on the latest ra28 on trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=52890074 the seller said it had LT on the back and an 18rg under the bonnet

you got pm

hey did ya get that 5k rebuilt or found another?

good to see another E7 on the mod! can you detail what your doing to the 2tgeu? you prolly know this but meh... your te71 stub axles are same dimension as ae86 so theoretically you can swap the 85/86 hubs or just the vented disk onto your hubs but the caliper mounts are different so cant swap em as easy and the te71 caliper not wide enough for the vented disks. another option tho is ae85 struts which are same as 86 strut cept some hav different spring perch size n then buy some new vented disks for em, swap em onto the 85 hubs and adapt some different calipers on that are wide enough for the vented disk unless you can source 86 calipers including the caliper mounts. bit of stuffing round tho with custom caliper mount and prolly get picked up in a wof. cressida, celica etc 10" vented struts can work well but require camber plates to bring camber back in spec, gives more track width and upsets brake bias without finding a bias valve to suit, also ma61 struts are bulkier with thicker disk than say ta63 celica. but using these type struts also require different springs to fit your rolla and wont bolt onto your steering arms. need a bit of research to see whats required to fit in etc.. this page will help http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/struts.html bolt in disk brake diffs can be found in ae86 and jdm te71 efi. the rest require mountings modified.. the corona disk brake rear referred to is quite a rare 2000GT RT132 with 18RGEU and 7.5" disk diff.. very similar diff also found in ra40 GT style celica but again hard to come by. im running mk1 celica/supra ma45 struts which bolt onto te71 steering arms, dont stuff camber up like the later celica's do, have a 10" solid disk but which get hot pretty quick so need decent pads. oh and need to find suitable springs and bias valve. easiest bolt in is find some ae86 struts and splash out for some decent street pads.

those not in the know.. this is their official website http://www.spookers.co.nz

trdchick's point has been clarified thru the aftermath, as harsh as her opinion is! i dont see the need to discuss this anymore. the backlash is pretty clear how other club members feel about it so hope ya think twice bout makin comments like that in future.. hmm another oldschool thread turns poos. i look forward to seeing both club's stands at future shows.

well i was bloody happy to see the club-k stand there and representing! ok some of the cars may not have been in shiny show condition but its a great start and will surely kick off something even better for future some pics here from friday http://www.toycrazy.net/gallery/nats/2006/index.htm i was impressed by this guy's display

say hi to the guys in the club-k stand i'll be the one in short shorts + jandals talking oldschool this, turbo that etc garble