AE25

nice progress why not take some steel bar down to a workshop with some rolls and get some rolled up to da diameter you want.. weld the join and presto

hey mr xxx ur ke25 looks like an sr... woodgrain tacho dash, chrome trim around rear side windows, 3kb etc only came in the facelift SR aye some as mine too. pretty sure the facelift sl had black interior, sr had cream

shipping from the malaysia would be $500-$1000 on top. have a search on http://www.toyota3tc.com forum for the thead. toycoolrolla was selling it. ha nah theres various versions.. the 4tgte that came in the production ta64 celica's (i think there were about 200 made for homologation purposes) were only slightly larger bore than 3tgte so still 1800 non intercooled but made 180hp. the race versions were bored/stroked to 2.1 with the kkk turbo n shiz. yeah the driveshaft is the big 21spline yolk to suit W50, W55, G52, A340 etc etc but bolts up to the 6.38", 6.7" and the smaller size 7.5" pinion flange. can redrill the flange to fit the other 7.5" and G series 8" hilux etc. the uni's are a reasonable size.. suit 1600 turbs etc. same uni's as my ke70 with 160rwhp

heh yeah i grabbed the shaft hoping it would be spot on for length to fit a W box in a ke70 with F series diff as i had to shorten an rt116 shaft previously... but nah its like 30-40mm too long just like the 116 shaft. it wont fit a k50 or t50 without cut/swap the W50 size yolk. if you want it i only live down the road from takanini pickas.. when you coming up? cost me $26 so you can have it for that if keen. 4tgte, yeah that'd be nice.. but they're essentially a 3tgte with a few internal differences. 180hp from factory is not hard to get out of a 3tgte either. could've bought a 4tgte for $2500 + shipping last year and yes it will fit in, seen many done. 40grit on an orbital seems to rip shit and bust, chews away bog easy but the metal too, i'd say the fastest way to do it. paint stripper is pretty yuk to work with but wont eat the metal and good for non flat panels and corners

haha they sit the car on it's sills on top of pairs of steelies welded together so you can drop the running gear out. the driveshaft is already unbolted for you theres a ke35 sr coupe and ke70 wagon there too. also an rt81 rona so dont get em mixed up. the rt81 has a smaller diff.

look on the chassis near the top of the firewall theres the chassis code RT104. its a yellow twin headlight sedan. diff was still there today 4th feb.

yup complete rear end drum to drum $65. (not including any mounts, handbrake cables, springs, shocks etc diff head $42

http://www.pickapartnz.co.nz/locations.htm do you know how wide you want your diff?

just been to takanini pickas... theres an rt104 corona with 1390mm wide T series drum brake diff.

got pics http://www.toycrazy.net/gallery/nats/2007/index.htm toyota biased of course show day only so far i'd like to give you one piece of advice, don't get sunscreen poured on your head

oh wicked, he got his own website for it too http://www.creaitken.com/GG43/ love that car, but 35k buys you a rally car with history.. something a collector would be after. whereas if you just wanted a genuine te27, head to japan and import one for $15k heh if you just want a T series.. what bout finding an rt80 or rt102 etc corona T series diff.. which ever is the correct width you're after.. saves ya shortening it from memory rt80 was 1370mm wide (theres one at pickapart but not a T series). the ta61 GT is most likely a T series IRS diff. so no use for a ke26. the live axle versions in the lesser spec ta61 and tt141 etc are approx 1415mm wide. (in comparison ae86/te71 is approx 1400mm)

planned on racing the ke70 3tgte but looks unlikely to be ready... i'll be there both days somewhere

and to think he said he'd want 10G back in 2001, which back then was a heap of money... oh how i wish i wasnt a poor student! plenty options there to mod a ke26.... decide on a plan and stick to it... do it once, do it right etc etc. costs less in the end unlike me

omg lol.. the 4age is pretty much a replicated ford BDA! belt driven A series whatever they called, port size, capacity etc soo much alike so if ever there was a jap cosworth... TG's rule the oldschool world tho!

sometimes i beg to differ! ever seen the speedtechs ugly duckling ke70.. 4agte 20v is sex

to keep it simple.. can keep std diff and driveshaft and use 20spline t50. if you think they not up to the task, then consider upgrade later. some tips: if you have the B series 5.7" diff head then it's a simple swap to the U series 6" like in later ke20/25/26, ke30, ke70, kp61 etc. diff will be ok if you don't do anything stupid like burnouts, drift or drag launch it. wear in the axle spline or gears will most likely destroy it from shock load rather than outright power. don't run wider than 185 tyres or run a puck clutch for instance... has to be a fuse in the drivetrain somewhere. brad (in club-k showoff page) got a best of 13.7sec 1/4 with a locked 6" diff in his kp61 starlet powered by 4ag... got to give the diff some credit and he only blew one diff head. he ran old slicks off a formula ford (which are bikkies btw). TRD lsd for the X 5.6", B 5.7" and U 6" diff are no longer in production, so they pretty scarce and expensive.. i'd check with toyota and see if they still produce spare parts for em too heh. mr revhead, blown5k or wde_bdy may know more on that. whereas can buy brand new TRD and other aftermarket lsd's for the T series 6.7" hence why they a good upgrade option. yup dats the dude, rob aitken.. orange/white rally spec te27. watched him racing it at pukekohe in 2001! the car had been setup for tarmac at that stage from its old rally guise.. he was rebuilding the 2tg then too.. i was stoked to see it in the mag.. got poster on wall that car enthused me to build my ke25 SR to te27 spec... it'll get there one day lol albeit with much more powerful and stronger drivetrain! raarr

the ke26 has been pulled off road for panel and paint and currently parked in da shed... wont be worked on for a while yet as just moved house and got things to sort out. list of shit done currently http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/ke26spec.htm the plan: parts sourced so far... 88222 version 2TG requires refresh (leaky gaskets). ta22 type T50 gearbox with forward position shifter ma45 6.7" disk brake diff.. to be shortened, snapped axles to be cut/weld with late type axle splines, rebuilt 3.7:1 ratio 6.7" head with st185 gt-four torsen lsd, te71 disks/calipers fitted, mod diff mounts to leaf etc with sway bar added ae86 vented disk/caliper swap yet to make/do: camber plates, rca's.. done: ae85 struts, ae92 gt shocks, te28 steering arms, king springs, lowering blocks, semisealed headlights, 2" exhaust, ke25 sr woodgrain tacho dash + much more

if you want an engine conversion on the cheap the 2t or 3t is the way to go. preferably the 3t! still plenty parts around and cheap as chips. 2t's come factory in the te28 wagon etc so they built for em. will need to make engine mounts and move ke26 gearbox xmember rearwards and redrill the mounting holes wider. make 2" exhaust, mod radiator piping to l/h side, shorter accellerator cable, may need to use single type brake master cylinder to clear intake, change to hydraulic clutch, upgrade front springs to take the extra weight. tho the engine weight is negligible... i mean, are you going to be track racing it ffs? with the T50 you'll have to cut the shifter hole further back unless you can find the very early model ta22 T50 box (pretty rare). if using a 20spline t50, find a late 70's corona driveshaft as they have decent size uni's, and get that shortened (mine cost $80 to shorten from driveshaft specialists in aucks). if using the ke26 diff, the locating ring is smaller than all the larger toyota diffs.. so watch for this if using a corona driveshaft! you may have to just use the std ke26 shaft which will bolt in to the 20spline t50... but any good thrashing tends to break the ke26 unis behind a 2t. (ask tup2t heh heh i broke his 2tg ke20 uni) the std ke26 diff will last if you drive normally... but who does!? if you dont, then see if you can source a T series 6.7" diff from an early 70's corona as they're not much wider than the std diff and have leaf springs. so less mods required to make em fit.. T series are a 10bolt diff head instead of the std 8bolt. but theres many diffs with 10bolt so check crown wheel size) may only need to cut and weld the ke26 mounts onto it.. i think these are rt80 and earlier model corona. compared to say te71 or ae86 which you'll need to run fwd offset rims coz diff is too wide (ghey). or spend big $$$ to get the diff shortened. if you use the larger corona drums then may have to look into upgrading the front brakes or install adjustable brake bias valve. (or can swap ke26 drums on new diff depending which one it is). yada ya theres always more than just dropping an engine in! once thats all sorted theres plenty potential to upgrade the T engine. have a good browse throught http://www.toyota3tc.com forums! did you see the te27 in the performance car yearbook?? if you need more info on the conversion i'm pretty knowledgeable on the subject... got a ke26 myself happy to help and im putting 2tg in mine too... just need time to get stuck into it

cool car and unique engine choice yep 3tgte manual is in japanese.. toyota head office in palmy have one but it costs to get a page sent to your local toyota. if you need to know anything about the engine im pretty sure i can assist. am starting to make a page for it when i get spare time http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/3tgte.htm some torque specs here http://www.hyautomotive.co.nz/ke70/3tgte/ lots more info here http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/vehicles/MyCarina.html http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Engine.html

i was referring to the 0-1v oxy sensor as a narrow band (whether or not thats the correct name i dunno). but all the 80's toyota's that i've checked run the 1v output type oxy sensor.. ie 4age 2tgeu 3tgte. there are different bolt patterns so no they're not generic in size.

sounds like you paying $$ for this lm1 lc1 system.. whereas surely a programmable ecu will be able to read a wideband and give you a reading off the laptop screen for tuning purposes? my mate does this with a narrow band just driving round with someone sitting in passenger seat adjusting the map inputs at certain load points. it would be quicker with a data logger for sure but when you dont have $$ to throw around hmmm

hmm me gonna have to investigate this wideband gadget

once investigated buying a new O2 sensor for my old 2tgeu and best price was from partmaster for $100ea. i'd prefer an air/fuel gauge but theres too many thieving scum in this world

post whoring...

a te71 without rust?? only in our dreams that B pillar looks like a bit of a mission due to the bends and corners involved.. you'd have to make it out of a few bits bent up to shape or better still.. find a liftback wreck and cut that part out to weld in. most important is that you get rid of ALL the rust on the metal before its painted or welded. iron's corroded by oxygen and water is a super highway for oxygen... rust soaks up water and if you don't completely get rid of it you're gauranteed to get it bubbling up again. the other parts are flat and wont take much to cut and patch by someone with experience. imo cut all rust out and do it properly before spending on the drivetrain. i'd also suggest to check the inner panels for signs of leakage.. pull off the door and side trims and see if theres water streaks down the inside of the panels.. if yes then get the leaks sorted as it'lll rot out the sills.. same for the boot lip and tail lights. one of the most important places to keep rust free is below the windscreen under the wiper panel. any holes there will cause havoc! front tow hook is another problem area as water sits in the chassis rails and eats from inside out. but anyways, your not alone when it comes to cutting rust out of 70's the driving pleasure i get from mine is worth it i cant offer to help tho as i have too much on my plate already. just to give ya an idea... saved from the dead! http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70newlr.jpg http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70rustr.jpg http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70rustr1.jpg http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70rustr2.jpg http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70rustrrqrtr.jpg