RUNAMUCK

Hes right you know. They rust worse than KE70s/KB310s. (And those were turds for rust/in general)

Theres a port in the underside of the power valve chamber which takes its signal from a hole in the base plate. You plug this up. (My book said to use lead shot, but I say fuck that! Better off locktiting in a tiny grub screw imho.* *tbh, I can remember how big that hole was, so that might not fly. Then you cross drill a hole through the side of the base plate (theres a black boss cast in for this) on an angle to intersect the feed up to the power valve chamber. Add a wee hose tail to this new port, and run a feed from after the supercharger. The rule of thumb for powervqlve selection (iirc) is half your idle vacuum figure. But my engine made boost so furiously with even the lightest touch of the pedal than I ran a 2.0" valve. It stayed shut untill the vacuum fell below 2". But even driving like a total bitch it was next to impossible not to have the vacuum fall to zero or below. (Obviously below zero is into boost)

I must have missed it, What ECU are you running?

A properly shifted gear should produce a satisfying crack! Sound from the sleeve of your jacket. Much like from the Gi of an expert martial artist when they strike during a demonstration. Strike first! Shift fast! NO MERCY! (or mechanical sympathy)

Rusti or Rudi once posted a link to a study paper abut GL5 oil and brass synchros. IIRC the guts was that it sticks to the metal so well that when it shears off, it removes part of the surface of the metal. Ive changed GL5 oil out of gearboxes,and the pan has been full of fine brass. a disturbing golden fine sand in the oil.

A chick I know has a supercharged CA18det in a 620 flat deck with truck style pipe up the back of the cab. It has that perforated stainless steel shroud around it. Its fucking cool too. Also runs stupidly rich, (something is waaay off with the tune, runs like 10.2:1 afrs) so it blows black like a boss.

Its literally on your way home.......

Unlikely.

Sweet! As the fuel requirements for a 90-125cc engine N2O set up, one of those wee pumps would be ideal. (I have two now too) it would be quite easy to use the reserve port in the tank to supply the pump too.

Efi is a bit foreign to me. I've been going through my NBC spares, and theres an efi fuel pump. (In tank variety) the pressure hose from it appears to go directly to the injector, with no return line? I know that car efi systems have a return line, as at the pressure car EFI runs at, deadheading the pump would be the kiss of death for it. But not on this bike it would seem? The reason I ask is, If it can stand being dead headed, it would be perfect to supply fuel to the fuel solenoid for a single fogger. A 10 pound blue bottle on the rear rack wouldnt exactly make it a sleeper. But then it's only a jet(s) change to up the horsepower.

I've read some uncomplimentry things online about maxspeedingrods. Defo go for the spools.

That AU coon I looked at was in leithfeild. I wonder if the old guy ever sold it.......

Dude, where's your car?

On a $100 car in 1997, zero fucks were given.

That cuts deep Michael.......

Did I stutter???!!!!!

Fixed is fixed! It passed wofs like that. /job done.

3M aluminum foil tape smoothed over really tight, and sprayed with colour match paint. I literally once fixed a rust hole in an AP6 regal in that exact spot by doing that.

That's how ford made them. The zhorst would have been installed before the rear axle most likely.

I found the whole car to be like this. I guess it's unfair to compare something with 20 something years more r and d, but K series yotas or A series dattos dont suffer from these ills.

Nice to see one of these being saved. OS has a long history of love/hate for the mighty and venerable pinto engine. @- i5oogt - is your man for Cortina parts and advise.

Yeah I'm calling fake news on that. The time that a team of OS boes had a working bee on it, I was actually amazed by how user unfriendly the whole thing was. To get to anything, you had to remove 12345678 other things. And each bit required 123556 other bits to be taken off first. As I recall, to replace the rear seal of the gearbox, resulted in us needing to remove the exhaust manifold from the motor, and unbolt the entire exhaust system. We owned an Anglia estate when I was a kid, (it had belonged to my grandparents) and I recall dad saying that everything got in the way of everything else when working on it. His folks bought it in '67 when it was almost a new car. But by the end it had been repowered by a 1500pcf, bored out to 1540.

Send it to Simms.

Like someone who retrofits tunable efi to a bog stock engine?

Superb. I have another car where the papers say Ps10, when the tag says p510.