peteretep

you tried 6g rollers? max acceleration is pretty great

What size motor is it now? 65cc? have you played around with rollers at all? sounds comparable to my 65cc setup

you should really learn how to swim buddy

not sure my filter likes being oiled either, been dripping for a week now, no performance decrease though

Ridden my bike a bunch more, gone down a jet size and overheating seems to have dissappeared. Put double nuts on a bunch of stuff, tightened head bolts again. Fitted rear mud gaurd. Test fitted spare fuel tank which seems legit. Backpack will carry rest of the stuff, its a tall pack, so load should be on the seat when riding hopefully

why do you think the piston made contact with the barrel? Seems weird on a new piston setup

I gave that a quick go, but the aluminium rod was not interested in joining with the grille material

there is an aluminium welder at work, but dang its really thin stuff. I'll ask the fabricator what he reckons

I bought a grille to change my car from square to round headlight, but it has a few shit bits on it, the worst being a crack in the aluminium where a fastener goes. Whats some good ways to repair this? I see you can buy aluminium brazing rods, so maybe I could fill it up, beat the area flat then redrill the hole. But its a pretty messy area with lots of debris around the damage, so maybe need to cut out the whole bad area first?

I dont seem to be able to serach individual threads any more, how far was the biggest distance between petrol stations? I thought it was around 100-120km? Is that right?

get a hydraulic disk brake, cable disk brakes suck, even on a lightweight road bike

did you figure out what happened to @mark105 bike?

its standard motor, intake and exhaust modified, and transmission modified

@sentra did way better than me, only 3.5L for 90km 1.6L/100 seams unreasonable

rode 100km today, used 5L of gas, many things rattled loose, but now should be more secure. And after riding 20km without a muffler, I can confirm its really loud and not advisable, people on the sidewalk were blocking their ears. Got up to 97kph on a big downhill, but can cruise along at 60-70kph all good on the flat. I think I get some weird issues in my transmission when it gets hot, so I have put a breather hole in the housing, and put the heavier rollers in so it doesnt have such great acceleration but doesnt load up the trans so much. I dont think I need spare gas at this point, so bag will just be lots of tools, undies, socks, wet weather gear and a couple other nick nacks, no problem for a few days on my back

oh man that thing is flash

Ah you dont want them to stay open all the time, they should operate as designed, just that they open too fast for a car engine to respond. Dont think about them as choke plates, more like plates to ensure good airspeed through the carbs. You should block the big hose but the small holes in the bottoms of the slides will be enough to move them at a decent speed

hey man, 90% sure the big one in the middle is connected to all the carbs, and the area above the slides. On a bike they are connected to the airbox and when that is under vacuum they open up more. For a car, especially a lazy commer motor, your engine wont increase rpm anywhere near as fast as a bike, so that can be blocked off. There will be a small hole on the bottom of the slide that 'sees' the air going past and creates a vacuum which pulls the slide up. If you dont block it off, the slides will likely 'flutter' as the revs increase, wont do much but can look and sound weird For the smaller black lines, I am going to guess and say they are fuel overflow lines, typically they have little hoses that run away from the rear wheel on a bike, they can probably be left in your situation unless they will chuck fuel out onto the exhaust or something I think you are a right with the lower hoses, and that they are fuel inlets, although its a bit weird having 2 inlets, but that could be because of the layout on the bike For setting the angle up, I would aim to have the float needle in the vertical position, this is likely perpendicular to the bowl flange, so keep the bowl flange level and you should be about right, but check the float needle first. It is probably set up steeper on a bike due to the fuel moving backwards when the bike is accelerating which would create a false level I imagine that you will need to jump up a few jet sizes, but a 1.5mm should be OK to run as is for a short time You should get a carb balancer to set them all up, just takes 10 mins, and when setting up the needles, start from the top and keep lowering it until fuel stops visibly dribbling out at idle also, have a look on en.impex-jp.com for spare bits for your carbs, and watch out when undoing the phillips screws not to damage them and be careful with the gaskets

Ill try the polisher as I have that now, and if that doesnt work then Ill try the sandpaper method as per @00quattro00 how does the lensklear work @Yowzer? seems like its just a couple of wipes? melts top layer of plastic?

ah true, I have an orbital polsiher I can try

Need to clean up some sun faded headlights, whats the best option other than buying new? Click buy now on any trademe link? Or are some better than others? I dont want to have to do it every 6 months if possible

doesnt look too bad really

Sweet as, will do some testing and see how the carb goes. My intake manifold is great but ghetto as, its just a plate, a 90 degree tube bend and a little doodad on the end to connect the carb would be best

My bike is complete at this point, it has run but not since it has been properly back together. Will wait until its not late at night to do some testing. Oil pump has a slow leak but shouldnt be a show stopper, can always change to premix if needed, and carb has finally stopped leaking after I pulled the bowl off 15 times, but I am a bit concerned it might shit the bed again so will need to keep an eye on it. the reed valves were out of spec too, so have ordered some new reed material. Otherwise I need to get on it and ride, find out how many other things are buggered on it Also entered and paid now

What would the difference be between a drill doctor and one of the NZ voltage machines not branded as drill doctor? Drill doctor is just the OG one so its best and everyone else is a copy?