peteretep

cyl 1 = 130 psi cyl 2 = 120 psi cyl 3 = 115 psi cyl 4 = 115 psi

jesus a leakdown tester costs a bomb so you would say disregard the actual number shown as long as the results are near to each other?

oops forgot to upload pics of radiator and heres a couple of bad pics showing the front lip, its made from 10mm acrylic and mounted on some adjustable brackets I made

well I havent made a new post on this in a while basically I have just driven it and its been sweet, thats it, been to a few track days, fitted a big radiator and a front lip, nothing has broken just yet although below I show some funny results which is the main reason for posting today heres a pic of the radiator, made by real deal radiators, cost a small fortune but was fully custom made and was made exactly to my drawing which is good and heres a pic of the spark plugs and a video of a compression test of cylinder 4 on the motor All the spark plugs look sweet except cylinder 3 has an oily residue on it, maybe rings or stem seals? the head was taken apart and cleaned etc so I dont think it would be stem seals so probably rings? and heres video of compression test, this seems really low, but the car runs fine so I'm not sure what to make of it. Thats making 115 psi, the other cylinders were making 1-130, 2-120, 3-115. Test was done with throttles wide open

http://www.stp.eu/uk/products/item/id/52 i use that stuff when changing oil, it gives me good results regarding noisy lifters, my understanding is that if the oil is allowed to get too dirty by poor maintenence, then the shit will get into the lifters and be virtually impossible to get out, so you will just have noisy lifters until you change them

i reckon trying to bend it will just fuck it, if its really a problem, then you could always get it machined flat at an engineers

blowing into it with some soapy water around the joins should find the leaks pretty well if you really want to finish the mating surface up flat then you can get a bit of glass with some sandpaper to get a flat surface, might take you many hours if its more than a mm or 2 out though haha

it must be super bowed if its still bent when bolted

ive seen a few of them bow including my own, just bolt it up and it will be sweet, as long as it doesnt leak when off the car it shouldnt when on the car

just fit an inertia switch and dont worry about it

i fitted an inertia switch in my escort for the pump, passed cert no worries, was about $40 from memory

rebuild kit from ebay for rot808's carbs was only like $40 delivered

This is what kind if pump you want to get, I got mine from repco, just quoted the facet part number to them and it was like $80 from memory http://www.facet-purolator.com/cube-fuel-pumps.php

Have you got a manual with an exploded diagram of the carbs, just to check your not missing any galleries etc and make sure orings are where they should be

if you are concerned about it, you can buy a low pressure gauge for around $30. just take off the feed and put the gauge in the end of it and you can see whats up. If possible find the bike manual and check exactly what the pressure should be. I used a pressure gauge to set my regulator and its set to about 2.8psi

i reckon it will be some o-rings somewhere have perished, they fit them in unusual places on bike carbs. Stephen ended up fitting a fuel reg but it just masked the problem for a while. I think in his case it ended up being a gallery was so blocked it had to be drilled out

Pull down the carbs and clean everythin, probably a blockage somewhere

talkin bout them deep v reyums

ned your carbs probably just need a clean like stephens

what ever was on the bottom of this

bikes normally have like 400mm of line running to near the ground from the overflows r1 carb bowl flanges are level, but best to check your exact type

if you enter the facet part number into google, you can find out its pressure and flow ratings, there are so many options that you can quite easily buy a pump to suit an exact pressure I've had the fuel come out of the overflows many times but never a fire haha, stephen drove his car to taupo and back with the fuel overflowing due to clogged lines regarding jets, I personally think the best way to go about it is to drill the jet size to 1/100th the engine capacity as a start, but that is just from what I have seen and there are many different types/sizes of carbs out there. From my experience r1 carbs on 1800 xflow = 1.8mm r1 carbs on 1600 toyota thing = 1.6mm (this is what I jetted to but I believe he went slightly bigger after doing a road tune) gsx650 carbs on 1300 mazda = 1.45mm (I think we went too big on this so it uses a bit more gas than needed)

updated comment

seriously, standard mechanical fuel pump is sweet. No reg required I am running a fancy facet high pressure/flow pump with a regulator, but its unnecessary

yeah I wouldnt do a how-to on bike carbs just yet ned