peteretep

everywhere I look it says not to ever use fuel line for brake fluid, various people have had no problems but 95% of what I have read says that the rubber will deteriorate such that black gunk fills the lines, it swells up and brake fluid starts seeping through it from what I understand, brake fluid is much more like radiator fluid than fuel/oil and destroys typically available rubber

haha that can be arranged tom, I estimate that I would need quite alot though, maybe a bit over a meter. I have bought some epdm hose which enzed told me was good for brake fluid, except it is rated to 200 psi and is super not flexible. I was wondering if you could use a small diameter silicone radiator hose as it is resistant to glycol. Finding good info online is really hard it would seem

just run it up like mentioned above to check the voltage regulator will be ok with it, bearings should be fine

a battery, a multimeter, drill and some wires is all you need to be able to test it, and a diagram showing which connection does what you will want to make sure that the rattle gun/drill actually spins it to an rpm that is within its normal operating range

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/fuse-blocks I would recommend you search aliexpress for electrical connectors, much cheaper than repco etc, and you can get crimp/heatshrink connectors which are pretty sweet. You do need to know the right buzz words to find what you are looking for though. I have bought lots of things from aliepxress and have only had good experiences, their shipping times are pretty accurate too eg http://www.aliexpress.com/item/180Pcs-Assorted-Insolated-Electrical-Solder-Heat-Shrink-Fork-Butt-Wire-Male-Femal-Spade-Terminals-Connectors-Crimp/1316247588.html

you want to test that the voltage regulator is working? max amps? that dash light works? I've done it before with a drill on the nose of the alternator, tested that it could put out some amps, below the limit of my multimeter, found out that the no charge light didnt work and that the voltage regulator still worked if you wanted to check max amps you would need a good multimeter and to get the drive speed correct, also a powerful drill i imagine

me, sentra, rot808 and 73crownwags will be in chch either thursday or friday so will go up with one of the groups depending on how much we muck around

hmm, I think i might just get the ap racing reservoirs, they would just suit my application best, cheers for the offers though guys wanting to have this done well before nats haha so I need everything asap

hey clint, fitting up my pedal box, can I run braided line in the cabin from the outlet of the master cylinders to bulkhead/firewall fittings? can I also run low pressure feed lines in a rubber hose through the bulkhead, just through a hole in the firewall. maybe a grommet or something to stop general abrasion damage do i need to ask for a specific low pressure brake hose or is carb fuel lines ok for this sort of thing?

hey kpr, yeah if you have them lying around, just after the standard 1 outlet ones ideally, maybe send me a pic or a part number just to check?

Ok I'll have a look at some vans tomorrow, maybe I can get new ones from repco cheaper if I know what they came from. I have to run a hose or hard copper line to the master cylinders due to their location

Anyone know where I can get reasonably priced remote brake fluid reservoirs? I found some on palmside but they are $45 ex gst each. I already have some but they have fittings on them which no one seems to deal with in NZ Also, is there a specific type of rubber that I should use for the lines running to the master cylinders? Maybe carb fuel line?

lol you have such bad luck with crossflows and BHG's, barely ever heard of any ever happening before you came along haha

bulkhead plug arrived and got a couple of bulkhead brake fittings so got a bit high tech with a cnc and a custom made o-ring courtesy of sentra dave. The brake fittings are for the pressure lines from the new pedal box, a separate unit will be made to mount the reservoirs with lines dropping down from above. Unfortunatetly the pedal box doesnt quite fit up so a it of cutting, folding and welding will be required, but thats next weeks job

wat are you talking about

I probably came off completely on the councils side, but I am just looking at it from the other perspective. Common sense and logic dont always prevail these days unfortunately well it would only get worse haha

tbh, I understand where the councils are coming from, theres a whole bunch of factors which would determine whether something is suitable over the long term etc that making a special case for one person just doesnt make sense time wise. I have dealt with a bit of this stuff before regarding other law makers etc and the time it can take up is crazy. If they did take special cases all the time, then we would all be here whinging that the councils take too long get anything done So basically I agree with steve, can it just sit on posts and not be connected to the container at all?

stolen from reddit, thought it looked pretty cool. I like how they kept the numbers on it

you can be the first to upload something new to the library once it opens up haha, you can use/have access to autocad or equivalent?

there would be multiple measurements required to do what you want, it might be better to start a thread regarding your mods with some pictures and people may be able to offer you some more advice

cheers guys, postage on the headers was pretty expensive from memory, I think it cost about a grand to get them all up

some more bits turned up today, new repro pedal box with dual wilwood cylinders and balance bar, panhard rod and throttle bodies. Throttle bodies are brand new with 42mm ports and is 55mm from flange to inlet so pretty compact

yeah true, I'll have a look tonight at what can be done

OK I'll do it

you know it simon