SYKOV6

nah its an isuzu bellet i think, twin side draughts would be next to useless on a stock type engine. thjey would pour so much fuel down its throat that it would prolly wash the bores and start it smoking they would have to b jetted right back prolly so much that a single 2 barrel carb such as a escort type weber would be heaps better. u really need more comp,bigger cam , ported head. to take advantage of the extra air/fuel flow that the siddies would give

sorry guys no big mods planned ,car is finished so i just plan to drive it maybe some new wheels and maybe some ghost flames but no engine swaps. atro just roll up on the day and tell tham ya want to put ya beast on display should be no prob

first weekend in august at the awapuni trotting track pioneer highway

nah rich ya cant be when yave owned a ford with a chevy in it i guess im kind of a cross dresser not affiliated to any 1 marque you are in the same boat to i guess

haha you cunts rock looked at some 18in chromies today at mates shop would look totally phat but theyll have to wait as ive blown all my budget. unless any of yous want a new kitchen or some furniture made hey lee any time thats what ive brought it for first trip will be palmy swapmeet prolly have it on display there too

no work to be done , might put some 18s on it when i can afford. motor pretty stock just minor mods [carb /cam/exh] this is a cruiser and i plan on doing heaps . will be going to heaps of hotrod events so if ya see me pop over and say hi. the current owner is in england on holiday he gets back on the 15th of july i will pik it up soon as hes back . i bidded on it on trade me got it for $11050 the reserve price i had been watching it for about 2 months he started out wanting 15g then 13.5 i was expecting to b out bid in the last hour but i held on to win. im fuckin stoked dave ps sold commy for $6500 cash to a car salesman itll prolly b on the lot for 8-9g next week he = drop kick

heres my new toy its a 69 fairlane has 351 windsor and fmx trans paint is white with blue green pearl. some of u hamilton guys might recognise it . i pick it up in 3 weeks when the owner gets back from england Disco viewtopic.php?f=18&t=11995

if u happen to cum across a genuine GTR XU1 LC or LJ then lock it up in your shed and forget about it until u retire it will b worth a fuckin SHITLOAD but gettin back to ya question about rust where shall i start- bottoms of rear guards - bottoms of front guards - tops of front guards above the head light -the scuttle panel in front of the fr screen[water gets trapped under the rubber and rusts the panel out usually in the bot corners -where the door top frame meets the door panel [they rust out and break off] - the floor especially in the foot wells. they are not rust heaps but are gettin old and these are the common rust areas. 300hp from a n/a red six is obtainable but the engines are pushed to the very limit of what the block can handle. the later blue/black six is better. the vk commy inj 3.3 makes a very good choice for a turbo with factory inj and good head design. i had a vn v6 in mine but if i did it again would prolly go for a skyline 2.5 turbo engine. link to pics of mine is top one below

do capris have a stamped chassis rail running front to back or just a sub frame? u can weld steel down each side of existing rails tacking to floor to strengthen/stiffen whole car. i had sub frame connecters made to bolt from front frame to rear one on my torana they made heaps of diff and made it handle better too. and only were as bigg as stock chassis rail so were not sticking out any where to draw attention to themselves

c4\c6 \power glide best choices c4 nice and lite bolt on bell housing \small phyisical size and able to be modded to handle insane hp. same with c6 just abit bigger and heavier. P/G good and well proven behind mega hp v8s still will require a fair amount of mods for your usage. hi stalls are sweet on the street they dont slip below the said stall speed. they only slip when u mash the loud pedal then they slip till the engine gets to its powerband and hit hard. i had a 3000 stall in the corty and it was sweet. good fun at lights. DONT buy a second hand one or and off the shelf item they should always be custom made for your engine mods/gearbox ratios and diff ratio. torque convertor engineering in pukekohe did mine worked perfectly and about 500 bucks. the only thing u need is a good aftermarket trans cooler as they do run hotter than stock

sounds like the starter is sucking all the juice at start up leaving no volts for coil u could try a larger batt cable to starter and run coil directly from ign with a larger than stock cable too. MSD stuff is the shizz but i have heard that the coils suck mega volts so an upgrade in cableing may be nessesary

sorry to say dude but its a ford best thing u can do is push it off a wharf and get sumthin else nah but seriously EAs were shits of things the single point inj 3.9 = shit yank it and fit a later 4 lt six they are hawt

apparantly mg metro turbo bolt in just tight around bolt ons. hey r 100 those nissan march egines also come in a supercharged - turbo version dont they [as in fitted with both at once]

the lexus @ 180kgs is about the same weight as a 289/302 windsor but a far more refined and powerful than a stock 302 which in 1968 was about 200hp so the lexus @ 190kw is an obvoius choice a bit trickier to fit though. got that diff in yet?. hey is your motor a fairly early one? the ones ive seen dont have the dissy on the front corner like yours they just have a coil on the plug so no leads .

hey rich ya cars cummin along sweet,looks good. i think that raising the tunnel would b by far the best option. theres nuttin worse on a low car than hittin the ground or always worrying about sumpthin hitting. cut out the tunnel and get a sheet metal man to roll ya up a new one. i made a cardboard pattern for the corty got all the shape right then took it to a dude to cut out and roll to the correct shape got it home and migged it in . easy, sweet and heaps of clearance. then ya should b able to use your original c/member modded to suit at the correct height

nah rad shop wouldnt/couldnt to the welding/engineering side of it so had to go to an engineer. most of the cost was in fabing a new filler neck to suit the rx cause the rad in a 3 is under the front panel and because its a 4 core and about 80mm thick it had to go as far fwd as poss to clear the front pulley

i was told that aluminium dissipates heat better than the old brass type thats why most new cars have them and they can be smaller/thinner and do the same job. eg v6 commy rads are only 2 cores thick as opposed to an old falcon one that is twice as thick to cool essentually the same. work mate just got a 4 core ally fitted to his rx 3 cost $650 for rad + $ 300 to make brakets and alter filler neck top suit.

it wasnt really meant to start a debate. just an example of ways to stop everything costing a fortune and having done a retro conversion [holden 3.8 v6 -lc torrie i know what a cunt and expence it is if ya dont have all the gear to do it yaself

Not a very good idea, frontal impact with a container of fuel is a bad thing. Much safer to do it properly. Callum fuck mate there aint much fuel in a surge tank only about a litre or so mounted right back on the fire wall it would be safe as houses. its no different than a crash with a carbed car with fuel pump lines and carb etc

you can get away using your stock fuel tank/lines etc by mounting the surge tank in the engine bay so u only need to have a short return line not the full length of the car. with only a facet or similar pump filling the surge tank

get a workshop manual, it will have what comp ratio your engine will be. most stock engines are around 8.5-9.25 ratio just enough to get some alright throttle responce but not enough to make any real power. with a forced induction engine it all depends how much boost u intend to run 7-8 to 1 prolly good for most applications up to 12lbs boost the less comp the more gutless it is off boost. the more comp the better it is off boost but will suffer from detonation at higher settings. RT can prolly explain it much better than me as he has lots of experiance in these areas

Hmm I see. where the brakes anygood? Dont want 5 stud yet. Not putting to much power into this guy and it just means new wheels. had zeph hubs on corty[for 5 stud]mk3 zeph discs same as mk3 corty ,calipers slighly different[weigh about 5kg each]

heaps of people have said that, but i reckon no cert and blown motor its worth bugger all, i could have hung out 4 $3500 but i dont think it would have sold . the right person came along at the right time and brought it. cant cry about it now im havin too much fun playin v8 supacars in the commy

like i said it doesnt make the brakes any better just easier to push pedal. thats why u young fellas have got such skinny legs drivin round in cars with light clutches and boosted brakes

u may have your wires crossed a little bit m8 qik rack =no mk2s have a steering box not rack gts had a slightly qiker ratio but fuck all differance to a stocker. but still a sik car for 3 hundy. i just sold my modded one with fucked motor on trade me for $3000 sold in 2 1/2 hrs