SYKOV6

when ya lower any veihicle that much it normally stuffs up the angle that the factory set the driveshaft/diff/ gearbox at loading the U/Js past the max angle they can move causing them to blow or rooting the rear of the gearbox. ive seen a courier ute that had the gearbox mount modded to lift the G/B higher in the tunnel to straighten the angle enough to let everything work right. ya can just flip the leaf with the eyes in it to lower the car but it makes them ride real hard. better to get them reset

if u dont have a washer bottle then it doesnt have to comply for a warrant if u do have one it has to work i think thats right same with a demister if its fitted it has to work if its not fitted then they cant check it so it becomes a N/A on the warrant form so ive been told by a mate who has his warrant certificate. correct me if im wrong. dave

sometimes after running is caused by a build up of carbon on the valves or pistons it gets so hot during driving that when you turn the engine off the carbon is still red hot and is hot enough to ignite the fuel still being delivered by the carb the more it runs on the more fuel and so on and so on. check your timing, slow the idle down slightly if its a bit fast or run some fuel system cleaner thru it some have deturgants that clean off carbon deposits just read the container to see which ones have the cleaner. hope that helps dave

ive got a mustang 8in in the cortina with a mini spool plenty strong enough for the 300hp the chevys making but its alot of weight under the arse not good for the handling especially with the mini spool

RT with the kind of torque your making youd probably be better off with a hi lux or falcon or even a v6 capri just finding the right ratio for your set up

it seems like everyones using them. i went to the drags and most of the low budget pro import guys are using them. i spose if the demand is there the price will remain high. which is probably why falcon diffs are cheap. what ratios are avialable for the hilux?

the local falcon diff is known as a borg warner 78 series . it comes standard with ratios from 2.72.1 to 3.55.1 the later being a ute diff not all are lsd but all ratios can have the option of lsd so make sure the one u buy is an lsd. they normally have a tag on the rear hat that displays ratio and wether or not is lsd some late model falcon rears have a lower ratio but these gears wont swap into earlier housings. early diffs xy- xf can b had for $50 upwards expect to change stud pattern and driveshaft and a proportioning valve for the rear because the falcon drums work better than the esky discs a bit scary if u leap on the picks as car wants to swap ends. an 8in ford diff is the same type as a 9in only slightly smaller and came in early mustangs 65-67 six cyl or 289 v8 . i have one in my corty they are getting a little hard to get parts for. all ratios are available from the states and they will handle up to 400hp. i think the hi lux diff is a better option they are just as strong are a bit lighter and there are heaps of ratios

it sounds like ya pretty much got ya shit sorted. sorry about the rising rate i got it the wrong way round my mate with the datto was bombarding me with too much info to pass on at once. have a good one dave

are u still using thr decompression plate? these proved to b a bit unreliable on early holden 6 turbo kits . they basicly used 2 head gaskets with a steel plate between them they were only rated for about 6-8 lbs boost is yours a similar set up? do u have a rising rate fuel pressure regulator? u really need one on a forced induction system with a carb. it would b advisable to use a custom forged blower/turbo piston for any hi performance engine its just better insurance against unreliability denco engineering down there do these i think DAVE

what comp ratio are u running and how much boost? maybe the comp was a bit high/to much boost on your old engine. do u have an intercooler? is it a good one? i asked a mate whose mucked around with turbo then supercharged then turboand supercharged a14 he reckons they have a well shaped comp chamber from standard. he said you need around 7.5/1 comp if you run any more than 10lbs of boost and it helps to have a good cooler eg vr4/evo and a good boost retard ignition he has run up to 20lbs boost on his super/turbo mill and had no probs. though hes been through a few motors to find that out. ps his is also injected . somtimes running a small blower too fast produces alot of heat resulting in detonation he also said watch your mixture if u are running a carb on top of the blower too lean = bang dave

how long have u had it running for? if oil has got into the exhaust it might smoke for a while take it for a good thrash and see if it burns off if not she might be rooted mate check the comp again and see where to go from there DAVE

did u put oil down the spark plug hole to bring the compresion up if u did that is where the white smoke is coming from dave

have u checked all the vacuum lines etc sounds like its running real lean it hasnt popped the gasket between the carb and manifold? or the pcv valve has popped out of the block? thems my thoughts hope that helps dave

sounds like a heat prob to me check your wiring to your starter . are any of the wires melted and earthing as the heat builds up hope this helps dave

im sorry i havnt written it yet somthing went wrong with the server when i tried [so zep said] if u can convert anglia to mk2 cort struts then u can also have my vented disc conversion also. ill wait to write the article untill i get the bits back from the engineer. then i can take some pics to support my story cheers dave

ive just converted my mk2 corty to vented front discs, is anyone interested? if u r leave a thread and ill explain whats involved

yeah sorry , and turbo cars though i think some of those guys definatly have their hand on it,

hi sounds more like an exhaust drone to me what size is your pipe? where r the mufflers. alot of people go far to big on the pipe size and the sound actually resonates in the pipe. 2in pipe is way big enough 4 a escort ther is no performance gain in going bigger you might lose bottom end torque big pipes are 4 worked 6s and v8s and rotas any thing else are just kidding themselves. i used to work in a workshop in aussie that had a dyno the guy that owned it had a esky rally car and did heaps of experimenting with exhausts and found that 2in was the best all round performer dave

yeah wipe away soak it in the shit just be careful not to get the thinners on any paint u want left on cause it acts like stripper in big doses.

hi , is it loose anywhere? if so grab a corner and go hard. or u can cut the vinyl and peel from there somtimes a heat gun can make the job a bit easier or even brush thinners under the exposed edge to disolve the glue. which ever way u do it it will b slow and leave a big mess to sand off. hope this helps dave.

su carbs adapt well to forced induction they are easy to tune [if you know what your doing] lots of early turbo conversions used them in blow through and suck through systems . two inch and a quarters or 1 2inch would probably do it for you but you must have constant fuel pressure so no high speed lean outs. just make sure any carbs you get are in good nick if the throttle shafts are worn they are fuckin hard to tune right. hope this helps dave

there is a guy in hastings with a toyota blower on a rota in a t bucket. it has a custom snout and drive hes running a 4 barrel holley. makes about 10lb boost with a 1to1 drive. ie 1 turn of the crank to 1 turn of the blower. hes figured out that spinning it any faster just makes more heat resulting in detonation and BANG a popped rota

no worries glad to help, looking forward to the pics. hoping to post some pics of my mk2 corty with v6 chevy soon. gotta find time to put the motor back in. had it out to paint engine bay and give it a freshen up. cant wait to have a drive in it. motor owes me 9 grand has steel crank, shot peened rods, 10.5 to1 flat tops, fully balanced, 580lift/310dur cam, fully ported/polished heads, big valves, roller rockers,guide plates, victor jnr manifold, 465 holley 4 barrel, hei ignition, also has 3000 hi stall converter, turbo 350 trans with shift kit/h duty clutches, 4.11 9 in diff. hoping to run 12s with no NOS and 11s with NOS. cheers dave

HI GUYS i chased up the JP thing i was told that in theory you could do this as the law doesnt say you cant but whether it would work in practise is another story. if you could get someone to put a warrant on the car it should sweet from then on. but wof guys are pretty wary of things they dont know much about. it doesnt work for me though because if i want to run my car at any NZHRA national event it must be certed. ah well better keep saving the $700 ineed for cert cheers dave

is your car aussie assembled? if it is then go for your life swap is fairly straight forward. the best thing you could do is buy a 4.1 wreck and swap all the running gear into yours. there is some differance from falcon to cortina engines[ dip stick in different place/sump] all aussie cars have all the bosses for both 2.0 and 4.1 engines but you will need a 4.1 crossmember/transmount the diff is also different. 4.1 cortys go well especially with warmed up engines. i had a tc 4.1 manual. it had flat top pistons, hot cam, port/polish,holley, big bore. ran low 14s.with a bit more suspension work, lower diff gears, could have run easy low 13s. isaw one in aussie at a street meet in august running low 12s on NOS. LOOK OUT TURBO JAPPAS. cheers DAVE