Hemi

yea my esky is ment to have a 1300 and it has a 1600 and it fly's through wofs the engine are exactly the blemin same man except the block stamping and longer stroke

hrmm well by the looks of things u had alot of oil in the chambers there , but id just say too much additive and it might be olny on the exhuast because it might be the only vlavle that gets hot enough to do it??? , check your plugs they might have the same deposit on them , mine did and it was cos i used too much uppercylinder lube ...

yea sounds like it , yep always a good idea to do that too , i would buy it off u cos im sooo after a l200 atm but i have absolutly NO money lol how much r u wanting for it?

what size was ur engine ? did u have any other mufflers along the line? , im keen but i dont wanna slap it on and get pulled up 20 meters down the road lol

or wire brush them crc the thread and oil it , works for me saves the thread from seizing again

ill buy it , how big is it though?

well those reading are bloody low for starters but it looks like u have a buggered headgasket sorry mate sounds like a have a leak between two cylinders aswell so unfortunatly........

well if its a blown headgasket then one of the cylinders reading will be lower then the rest i.e 150 psi,150psi,110psi,147psi get it?, other then that i can only guess that there might be air in the system but thet usually get blown out eventually , try running the car for 5mins with the rad cap off it should blow the air out??, have u tinkered with the heating yet? that might be part of the problem

just another thing to check if thats the prob ...the thermo stat if that aint opening then the water will be stuck in the block and end up blowing out the overflow i had the same prob three days ago , might not be the problem but its a start. i dont think its a haedgasket as there no oil or bubbles in the coolant? and no milky shite under the oil filler cap?, at any rate u can usually tell with a compression test ,or running the car from cold for 30seconds and take the rad cap off , shouldnt be any pressure or much pressure if it comes flying then .....sorry man lol

umm the crank pulley can be unbloted by jamming the flywheel somehow , if the motor is apart use a peice of WOOD under the cracnkshaft to jam it, then try not to destroy the pulley when bashing it out

ok well if u just got a new thermostat it may be too cold (temp should be under thermo) , also its a bit late now but you shouldnt use that radiator repair stuff as it seal cracks and stuff well but it also can plug your radiator and basically lead to more problems down the road, with your water problem u may very well have air somewhere in the system let it cool then take the RADIATOR cap off fill it RIGHT up then fill the overflow up to max or wherever that could be ur prob as air expands a shitload when hot and also contracts and creates a vacuum the only place it can suck thru is the overflow , which also may expllain y all your water is disaperaing when its cold. i wouldnt bother taking it a mechanic unless your car starts to overheat madly or such as they gonna do the same thing as you but more systematically ...i work on cars just about everyday i should know haha. oh and before you put that radiator cap back on run your car from cold for a bit till the thermostat opens so u can let any air out that may be there ...hope that help a bit cheers james

i likie one as much as the other its just mean having a carby when u put ur foot down (well not to the floor that sounds gay) but yea and u can hear them sucking thats mean and the backfires and key bangers haha, but then again efi is a more exact science and id rather work on a efi car becuase the bloody motor can usually tell u whats wrong!!!! now that cool , so i like both efi for turbs and carby for sytle lol , and yea with vacuum carbies the usually have a weight on the esecond carb and when the engine gets to a certain speed the vacuum in the inlet manfold is enough to lift the second throat open ....enter the lil datto 1200 motor , most webers are mechanical i think e.g 28/36 and 32/36 etc etc

yea i get that aswell ,it could be that your secondaries are vacuum activiated???, im not sure y it has a huge effect in rotors cos they seem to gain turbo power when they hit them but but it might be that a rotor has three sides in stead of just one piston so that might be a reason?? iunno just my 20 cents...

here s where you get your workshop manaul out and see which way it is , hot should go onto the bottom (hot rises) itll help the flow of the current) and it best if the inlet into the heater is where presure is (inlet manifold prehaps?) and the oppostie for the outlet (if there a junction on the sire of the watperpump is good cos of the vacuum created there , so basically round your bottom hose somwhere? , im not sure i havent done this kinda work before so im just giving my input on the basics lol

umm wellll thereis usually a connection somewhere on your waterpump that allows the heater pipe to go into and another on the manifold,block,radator , somewhere around there , unless u have a none original engine in which case good luck haha

hahah there u go then

they look like lil radiators and are mounted in your heaterbox, ur going to have to pull the whole damn thing out if u wanna check it , easier way is to find the heater hoses that go into the firewall and warm the car up uopen up the hot on ur control and feel both hoses they should both be quite warm , if one is and one isnt then there's sumfing up in the heater box , if they're both cold then well obviously theres no water going into either of them!

mmm l200 2.6 double cab ...mmm , oh anyway , umm could be ur thermostat but it would relly only effect it if it wasnt opening and if it wasnt opening u wouldnt be getting far , ur heater core coud be stuffed or the levers that control the heater could be jammed , mine stpped working cos of that ...just my 2cents

nah the dont they wait till they compleltly fuck it up then bring them to me lmao

that is soo random

sounds like u have a short somewhere , opening the boot and having a good look at the wires , none of them shoul dbe touching or stuffed , the fast flickering sounds like one of ur indictors is blown , but given the other probs something mightbe grounding out somewhere , i has to redo the wiring on an escort the other day for wiring , and the same thing happened one of the wires had broken and was grounding itself in the boot

yea f#$@% frost plugs leaking

omg that looks really outta place on an escot :S , i prefer dumpers but i can find one thatd suit my esky lol , atm i dont even have a muffler!!! , fell off at before the diff the other day, nice wake up for all my neigbours at 5 in the morning haha

well if ur car blows white steam out the back of the car after it warmed up , then yea it probably is , check your coolant if its milky then yep , another way of testing is take ur rad cap off put it back on (just to equalise pressure) , statrt the car and run for 30seconds , then stop and take the cap off , if theas pressure then u probably do have a blown headgasket between the chamber and the waterjacket , however it could just be lost out the overflow , i have to top mine up every week cos that happens , way to fix it , get a overflow tank haha , just my two cents cheers james

yea whateva fits i suppose its not like the jets use a litre a minute lol