RXFORD

Paint looks great, keen to see it slammed on some roh Zs.

Makes sense as trade plates are not registered to a specific vehicle, they are registered to a business. At entry/first reg you don't need plates for registration, you need a vin/chassis number and the temp paperwork states a wof inspection has been carried out to allow you to reg and get plates assigned.

I believe drop spindles started from the next shape - '85 onwards. There may be a way to convert by swapping balljoints/tierods to suit the later spindle but that would be getting into design approval territory with geometry changes I would think. Like I said on the Mtnz page, pie-cutting the upper arm has always been a thing, but I havn't had to get any through cert for many years, so unsure what the reinforcement criteria would be nowadays. If you want to Pm me I can dig out some pics of how its done. Even if you just do it for now to get you laying so you can build the bag mounts, then figure out the legalities later on down the track.

It looks pretty obviously welded judging by the different shades. You could polish it which would make it even more obvious. Like 1500/2000g then a foam pad with polishing compound. Or request a hardness test on that area vs the area surrounding it. Welded area will most likely be way off unless they have matched filler rod to parent metal but even then I'd say hardness would be different.

Sort of depends what state you plan to try cert it in. Are you sealing all the underside/inside areas that have had body modifications/rust repairs or just leaving that til it goes to paint? Colour won't matter but any body areas that have had work done will need to be sealed properly to prevent corrosion to be signed off. So underbody priming/seam sealing/top coating etc. Same with inside/exterior. I have done full dry fits/mock ups of cars mostly in bare steel or primed but not seam sealed before and got them running/driving and had cert 'progress inspections' done but havn't been completely signed off until the car is blown apart, sent to paint, sealed up and reassembled properly so a final inspection can be done.

A common way to solve the harsh rear braking once a ute with a lspv has been lowered is to bend the rod that goes between the valve and the axle. You just reshape it to be more like stock so the valve isn't as open as it currently is.

Love the battery operated boring bar there. Have just been going through those cam/crank sensor questions myself. @vk327 informed me yes to run full sequential ignition and injection you will need a cam angle sensor.

Another issue I see, is how can it be proven the bullbar is non-oem or a not factory fitted option? I'd be surprised if cops/wof inspectors had an approved list with pics and info, and then to go a step furthur are police/wof inspectors going to have issues with pre '99 non-frontal impact vehicles because they don't fully know the rules? Don't get me wrong, I think a bunch of shiny mall crawler 2wd utes with winch bars that are only held on by a few 10mm fasteners is pretty lame, but seems like it may not have been thought out too well and unfortunatly Lvvta will probably bare the brunt of it.

Nzta's argument of airbag safety kind of goes out the window a bit when theres still a loophole of a ~9+ year period where vehicles newer than March '99 but 14 years or more older can have steering wheel airbag deleted... With or without a bullbar drivers probably going to have a bad day.

Some guys just swap the calipers side to side, and run them upside down so the long bolt is away from obstacles. Bleed nip will be on bottom so will have to roll the ute on its roof to bleed them, or could remove, put a block of wood between and bleed up the correct way. I wasn't aware of thickness differences to be honest. Could be a year thing or maybe petrol vs diesel.

Bit of a shit end to a good weekend, but fuckin hell that could have been gnarly so good thing those ears of yours work well.

Looking forward to it!

If the injectors are cc'd to e85, do you think there will be an issue running 98 through them, in terms of getting too much fuel?

Bugger, Ok thanks, owner should have done more research before buying the more expensive parts aimed at sequential inj/ig. Will do some investigation into cam trigger without the vct unit attached and see what we can come up with. A few of us did try talk him out of e85 because of the added problems surrounding it and that fact hes limited to max 10:1 compression but he rekons most of the competitive cars are running it so wants to be a sheep. Will try push for dynoing both e85 ad pump 98 to see what difference there is. Yes we will be fitting a ethanol content sensor inline and have pushed for him to run a wideband o2 fulltime for safety which he wasnt planning to do as not many other cars do apparantly. Thanks for heads up about the polarity.

Currently involved in a Stockcar re-build and need some wisdom in regards to the importance of a cam angle sensor... The engine is a 6cyl Falcon AU3 VCT but its had the VCT parts removed and a blanking cover fitted as per class rules. We are mocking up a new loom for the current setup which runs a Link G4 Storm ecu, which has 8 injector and 8 coil drives available. It has 6x individual Ls1 style coils setup. We have an aftermarket crank trigger wheel which does all the firing/juicing but are wondering that if we don't run a cam angle sensor, will we only be capable of batch fire injection or semi-sequential instead of full sequential? Is this true or does it depend on the trigger wheel and ecu map? As far as we know, none of the other efi engines in this class run a cam angle sensor. We have converted to e85, and think the current fuel tank volume may be on the limit for the added fuel usage so any fuel wastage may be an issue, albiet we don't know how much wastage there might be between the 2 so may be overthinking it. Efi has only been allowed for 1 season so alot of the speedway engine builders are still pretty secretive about how they set things up. Our sparky is going to power up the ecu which was supplied by an engine builder who said he has put a startup map on it, so we will see if that gives away any secrets on how the injection is setup, but I figured I may as well ask here too. Cheers

Should send an Invoice to supplier for the diagnosing labour.

Is it spinning fast enough to throw little electric people where they need to go? ie; pulley sizing correct for idle speed of crank pulley diam?

Side note: those horrendous looking pullmax dies were a quick slap togethor for a test job that I reshaped for this purpose. I know Pullmax baby Jesus was weeping seeing those pics but they work fine.

I just keep my trade plate on me. Its cheaper than paying for wof/reg haha.

Soldering Iron works pretty chur too.

Your best bet would be to engage a repair certifier to look over it as you will need one regardless at some stage. They charge by the hour so worst case it'l cost you maybe a few hundy tops to have a definitive answer about what they would like repaired and how they would like it done. If you want to proceed from there they can start a file on it.

Is the alt one that can wizz over either way? If not is it spinning the correct way? Does it have a decent earth to block? Paint on engine mount might be an issue?

This ones stainless and mounts between strut towers. Fills up near rear window gutter so you would have to seal off boot area for cert so any fumes can't make it through to cabin. At a guess i'd say its 50-60L

have they already started the tank for you? @piazzanoob has the tank which came out of triple3/Lance's old coupe that might be a good option for you?

Motorsport Electronics sell the symmetrical type fuel rail. It looks a bit nicer than the offset style. From memory it has a bigger bore too which is the correct size for threading. (Its been a while so I've forgotten what thread) Drilling 0.1 undersize then wrapping a bit of red/grey scotch pad around a small drillbit is a good way to polish the bores of the drilled holes. The injector will dictate the mounting height and type of seal.