Ke36

yea 7s is pretty well much the max width you can fit up front on em im not guna argue with fuel but +35 is way too positive for a 7 inch wide rim on a ex (5s may be a different story) it aint guna fit no way, will foul on the strut and the sa15s either wernt +35 or they had spacers ex's need circa +20 like pretty well much all macpherson strut rwd cars from the 70s and 80s

some shit you can get away with an amendment others require a full recert not sure what the rules are for whats what tho

get a pic of what you want to remove

would u care to share the info on how to match master cylinder size to piston caliper sizes? sheepers brakes are good, both sets have been rebuilt in the last 6 months and yea i think the booster is ok as from what i can read on the net it does all the things it should do, when tested

whats the best way to check it? pedal falls away under foot a little when you first start car, which is wat it is meant to do? cant hear any noise/hissing when you turn car off like a leak i would like to work out what master i need for infos sake cos im always keen for ways of upgrading my car and im sure others will use the info

ok rebleed the rear brakes tonight and replaced the rear pads with the top ones repco do off the shelf guna change the fronts in a few days when i have time id say its maybe alittle better but cant really tell still definately improves when you give it a couple of pumps now im starting to question myself and wonder if this is as good as the ever were?? when they car is off they are mint, hard as rock im fuckin over bleeding them, have gone thru 1.5l fluid making sure there completely flushed and bleed how do you work out what size master you need to match to your brakes? i know my rear caliper piston diameter, guna measure the front when i change the pads

so so so keen just make sure its in the south island!!

yea all fluid is brand new rinsed heaps through the system thought that was just my issue, it has improved just not 100% guna grab another bottle twomorrow and do the whole system again

ok iv got a similar issue with my lancer so ill throw it in here, ex lancer stock 1200cc master and booster starion front struts and s14 rear calipers car drove round for 6 months and got cert with setup brakes were sweet as went to a track day kaned the fuck out of my car and it loved it driving home brakes pedal had more throw, from what i can remember car sat around at home for ages, i rebuilt the rear brakes (coz the were sticking if left sitting on for ages) and chucked them back on (front were rebuilt 6 months ago) rebleed front and rear brakes heaps with the engine off give the pedal a couple of pumps and its hard as a rock but turn the car on and it has a bit of travel and never really gets to that rock hard stage if you pump it, the pedal feels reasonably solid but the braking performance is definately down on what it was before, you can jump on it hard as fark and it wont lock up put a vice grip on any of the lines, (only needs to be one line) and the pedal goes hard as instantly any ideas? pads are getting quite low but they should self adjust, corrrect? is it possible that now the pads are worn down its bringing to light a mismatched m/c like uj is talking about? but didnt think theyd go hard like they do when the cars off

looks like a good meet guys dattos look nice sorry couldnt make it car had no wof

nah was certainly a new one to me, i cant quite remeber now but i think the yarn from the guy who sold it to you was that he had bought it a couple of years back from an older couple then maybe a job in oz so had just been sitting stored and was accumulating parts

your thomas' bro then i take it? i went and checked out the car for him/you and took sum pics nice solid car for sure, if i had the cash at the time i probly would have got it myself, hope you were happy with it when you got it up to aucks

you get this from chch?

ouch

Your fluid will have boiled or taken on air at the trackday. Always bleed them again after hitting the track. have actually rebuilt the rear brakes (unrelated issue) so rebleed the rears havent touched the front though, so might give that a try, will post up here trigger so you can rule out a mismatch if it all comes up sweet

my brakes arent spongy and i have starion fronts with s14 rears and still running off only the 1200cc ex lancer m/c are your pads not new all round? i will say tho after having been to a track day recently and smashed the shit out of the pads they are feeling different for sure, i.e much more travel in the pedal

cheers man, thought it mite have been there, there sold out tho, managed to get on for the same sorta price off ebay its just guna take forever to get here

Retro Wheels Wheels & Rims--Automotive - Mortdale, NSW Ph: (02) 9570 3033 74 Roberts Ave Mortdale NSW, 2223 Australia have the rights to do the smaller simmons (up to 15s i believe, have done so for a while now) so if all else fails

good luck i got some larger nolathane ones and turned them down on a lathe to fit

get a late model (7,8,9) evo bov, i believe they are metal as opposed tot eh earlier plastic ones they can handle over 20psi

whered you get ur omp steering wheel from and how muchy was it?

to start off with yea measured up lower arms and they are equal from mounting point on crossmember to balljoint shocks dont appear to be bent as they have equal wheel spacing to the wheel edge at the top of the wheel went tand had a talk to the wheel alignment guy today he said that it is a bit of a difference he also said about how if i was just using it as a street car he wouldnt worry, as it would help it ride up on the crown of the road like others have said however since its a weekend warrior/turning more and more track orientated his suggestion was to get it back in set it all up on the machine and see if i can get some moevment out of it like you suggest through the crossmember and then if it is still way out do the old elongate the holes in the xmember on the right side to bring that one out to match the -2 value so its either that or i get some adjustable top hats made up he also said that hed add in up to 4deg of castor for better turn in and get rid of the toe all together, which he explained was at its current value so driving on the road it is easier on the tyres (offsets the wear of my -ve camber)

height in the rear from center of rim to gaurd is less than 5mm difference with the passenger side slightly lower than the drivers

while were on a close subject can you buy good aftermarket lsds for a hliux diff?

rear is hilux solid axle, non adjustable springs measuring both centre of rim to guard height and sill at a pillar when i was having issues i measured the adjustables everywhich way and they are definately the same, changed springs etc if it is just a natural thing, i.e not something broken etc then ill just get adjustable tophats to even it up its jsut going by everything it should be even