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Oh dont be a hater!

Work Equip!! But yeah, very very nice. I'd love to have a 1200 coupe some day.

Looks awesome man, is the wiring staying hidden or what's the dealeo? Will have to give ya a race when my car is done too, see who comes out on top

Haha, that's what hose clamps are for! I'm using a 1.5lt surge tank. If I'm using the stock electric pump in the tank as the lift pump, can I just use a carby fuel filter between this and the surgetank?

Hey, Does it matter where inline the fuel filter goes? I have had to get an EFI one (as I'm going EFI) and would like to mount it in the boot after the fuel pump if I can, rather than in the engine bay... Is this Ok to be done, I can't think of any way it would affect the flow or pressure of the fuel.. Leon

Yeah mint score dude! All it needs now is some black flares and some black deep watts and sacked on its ass with perhaps a Savannah spook. Would look the shit!! And yeah, was gonna comment on the front before I saw the other ones, I love the 808 look, please keep it this way!

So I've just got my new turbo manifold and I was thinking it'd be nice to do something to keep the heat down, or at least stop them from rusting. First option, and easiest is to get some high temp paint and spray them, but I've done this before and had it burn off!!! The other ideas are to use some extractor wrap. I know this is good to keep the heat down but I've heard it's not good for the headers, can anyone verify this and why it is so? I did ring HPC and the woman quoted me "more than $290" which is far beyond my price range. Leon

Geminis = 4x100

I ended up cutting out some of the front of the rad support rails but made sure I left the chunky bits there to retain strength. I think it'll be ok this way, just have to shave a little off of the grille now to get it all fitting mint.

Hrm, ok. Well I have decided not to cut them fully out, that'd be pretty silly really. I'm just gonna remove some of the front part, just enough to get that piping fitting around there. Will also trim back the grill a bit so I dont have to cut too much of the support.

Yeah it seems to be a pretty tough area. I had a look and hae decided that I will probably just trim around the front of it a bit, thje grille almost fits in there without cutting and there is no way that I'd have to take out the entire sections of the rails to get it to fit. The less cutting the better i'd say.

As you can see, it's a pic of my radiator area in my car. I want to cut out the sections in green from those radiator mounting bars for the intercooler piping to go through, but I'm not sure if this is legal (due to structural issues...) Can anyone spread some light on this? Cheers

They wont make enough difference to warrent $500. If you want, just buy some new Lukey or Pacemaker ones. Wont cost you more than $300 and will work just as well.

Looks nice dude, quick 0-100 for an older car too!

Yeah, I wouldn't bother with a choke either, never had one on the Gem with it was N/A and that started OK. Sounds mean when cold too

If the water is for the choke, just rip the choke off and put a manual one on, or an electric one if that's what your car had originally. You can get them from any carby shop, not hard. Wouldn't have a clue on 4k jetting, sorry.

Is this the same when dealing with 1/2 cages?

Some of those designs are not legal in NZ. I was talking to the guys at Performance Metalworks about roll-cages (as they had a Torana in the shop and were building one for that) and they let me in on a few things: In NZ our laws say you can't have the car going back past into the boot. This is because if you get rear ended, the entire cage/chassis will be pushed foward, perhaps resulting in the loops being smacked into your head. Same goes for the front unless you're going ultra hard out. Just becuase you have a cage dosen't make your car safer in a crash. If it's mounted in duious areas then a lot of cage and chassis pushing is likely. But this is only what I've heard. Cage regulations are different all around the world, in Aussie everyone goes through the rear parcel tray - but we're not alowed too. When I getmy 1/2 cage done, I'm going back to the rear wheel arches or struts on each side, a loop over behind the seats, and a few more bars yet to come into the design. Hopefully one that I can use to mount harnesses without having to weld in harness plates (although if i'm going to the lenghts to get a cage, may aswell get these too!)

This is why you make one! Where are you selling the wagon? How much etc? Might be keen...

Oh yeah Then >

Go to the half sanded down, rusted rolling low as on steelies rat rod look. Would be mint

Yeah dude, is a nice car. Done well. Lowlancer: the 13s are badass but the only problem is you can't run decent and large brakes... I wonder how they get around this.

Might go if there's nothing else to do, which there probably is. Nothing much of interest at those things.

Apparantly there is a special way to install master cyclinders. Defcon knows how to do it, I'll ask him to take a study-break and try type it up!

No one type is better than the other. They are just for different things. 4-1 is good for top-end, squeeze that little bit of extra power out up there. 4-2-1 are good for torque. In the long run, on a pretty standard engine I don't think you'll be able to tell much difference between the two (but you will notice a power difference - i hope). Just do make sure you get proper lengths like kyteler said.